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DIY: Basic Speaker Upgrade- 2nd Gen Access Cab

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by maverick491, Oct 1, 2007.

  1. Dec 10, 2012 at 8:53 PM
    #261
    tractng

    tractng Well-Known Member

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    Rich,

    Are the neg/pos wires label in red and black on the taco? I am actually surprised...
     
  2. Dec 10, 2012 at 9:02 PM
    #262
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    When I wired in my Polk crossover, I wired red to + and black to -.
    I think I remember each door having a different color tracer, but the base colors were red and black. Pretty sure the tweeter harnesses were identical on both sides.

    Seriously, it's AC. As long as all speakers in the cab are in phase, it doesn't matter.
    Stereo systems have been running floating grounds to the speakers ever since they moved beyond 18 watts back in the 80s.
     
  3. Apr 3, 2013 at 6:08 PM
    #263
    snowrx

    snowrx Active Member

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    On my 2013 I was able to run the speaker wires from a connector behind the drivers side A pillar, back behind the weather strip over the doors to the rear door hinge area. Very easy, and since I was using the factory HU, I did not need big aftermarket wire.
    On my truck the connector was black, with four wires ,violet,pink,blue and light green, the same colors as the front speakers. Cut back the sleeve to give yourself some room to work, and you can clip the wires on the upper side of the connector. This will disconnect your ineffective headliner "rear" speakers. Pull the weatherstrip off all around the upper part of the door opening.
    You can now splice some new wires on and carefully thread them up the pillar and above the headliner and behind the side curtain airbags, then behind the door latch loop and down the rear. Keep the wires behind the little grey tabs so the wires won't be in the way when you put the weatherstrip back. Meet your wires from the doors and you're done. Run right rear wires across under the under seat bins.

    IMG_0002 - Copy.JPG
     
  4. Apr 3, 2013 at 6:36 PM
    #264
    snowrx

    snowrx Active Member

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    H4 H9 bulbs,Hidden Warn M8000, Bed & hood lights, clock panel voltmeter,
    Now you'll need to bypass the factory "radio condenser" behind the glove box.
    Pull in the box sides to clear the pegs, pull down the glovebox door, reach in on the right side and pop off the upper end of the door damper, then pull the glovebox straight out and out of your way. There's a 10mm bolt above the glovebox latch loop you'll need to remove. Above the glovebox is a cover, pull the sides straight out to pop loose one snap clip on each side. Tilt the cover down and pull it away from the dash and you will see a little box attached to the back. Pull the connector off and the box pulls off the cover with a push clip. Snap off the box cover and you will see two capacitors inside. just solder a jumper across each one and you will get full bass to the rear speakers again.

    IMG_0003 - Copy.jpg
    IMG_0010.jpg
    IMG_0004 - Copy.JPG
     
  5. Apr 29, 2013 at 7:50 PM
    #265
    brian9682

    brian9682 Member

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    Brian
    Tallahassee, Fl
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    2013 PreRunner SR5 Double-Cab
    after purchase: factory fogs, tow package tailgate anti-theft clamps and washers Undercover Flex Polk Audio DB6501 components in front Polk Audio DB651 in rear
    OK. I have a 2.7L 2wd SR5 PreRunner DCSB. I am 52 and want to upgrade the stereo system in stages. I don't want a window rattling system, I just want a full, nice sound. My wife's Prius sounds great with her JBL system. I am guessing that I would have been more than happy with the premium system in this if had been installed.

    My first question is on speakers.
    Crutchfield states:
    that I need 6 1/2" or 6 3/4" in the fronts and 5 1/4" in the rears.

    Sonic states:
    Speakers that fit your 2013 TOYOTA TACOMA Standard 6 Spkr Audio (change)
    Front: 6" x 9"
    Rear: 6-3/4"
    Front door: 6" x 9"
    Back door: 6-1/2"

    TacoTunes states:
    fronts: 6.5" components
    6" x 9" coxials
    rears: 6.5" coaxials

    What gives? How do I know what I need without tearing a door apart?

    I have purchased from Crutchfield before and was very happy with their service. I have read good things about Sonic and they appear pretty inexpensive. TacoTunes looks to be more high end products that is out of my likely budget.

    Thanks for your help with my speaker quandary.
    Brian
     
  6. Apr 29, 2013 at 8:11 PM
    #266
    jmdaniel

    jmdaniel Well-Known Member

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    Go with Crutchfield, they know what they're talking about. I can't speak for what you stated Sonic told you, as I have no idea what the difference between "Front" and "Front Door" is, or "Rear" and "Rear Door", and if you state there are 6 speakers, why are you listing 4 pair?

    I have a 2011 Access Cab, am your age, and put 5-1/2 Boston Acoustics in the front doors, nothing in the back doors, disconnected those crappy things in the headliner, and slipped a Kicker Hideaway sub under the seat. That speaker setup is more than enough for me. Good luck.
     
  7. Apr 30, 2013 at 1:36 PM
    #267
    Chickenmunga

    Chickenmunga Nuggety

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    Brian -
    Each website is listing different sizes because the door openings are custom fit. You will need a speaker baffle. I recommend Mr Marv, he builds a quality product. TacoTunes has been shady, and Crutchfield will just give you a cheapo plastic thing.

    Rear speakers are not a necessity, nor are they recommended in higher end setups, but to each their own. I recommend installing fronts first and then waiting for the rears if you still decide you need them.

    Crutchfield, Sonic will be OK for regular product such as speakers. 6.5" on the front will be the ideal size. Mr Marv can also give you recommendations. Wonderful guy to talk to on the phone.
     
  8. May 1, 2013 at 9:59 AM
    #268
    nubbs

    nubbs Only from the waist down.

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    If you've got the DCSB you will want to go with 6.5" in all 4 doors and as stated, you will need the adapters. I can't speak to the various outlets for the adapters as I made my own from plastic cutting boards. If you're handy, I would suggest this route, I saved a ton of money. Asthetically they won't will awards, but if you take your time, cut them and seal them against the inner door and speaker flange correctly, they'll sound good as anything out there. Also, the 6.5" speakers in the front should be a component set, to isolate the tweeter in the factory location.
     
  9. Oct 26, 2013 at 7:02 PM
    #269
    tomminator855

    tomminator855 Well-Known Member

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    I just ordered . 2 pairs of focal 165 2ways coaxial from crutchfield.com . These will be replace my stock on 2014 Double cab, They only comes with the speaker adapter for front door not the back door ,so had to order rear door adapter separate , I am planing to replace the stock tweeter too, since they're not great , i heard people said no need to replace stock tweeter ,but I want to do it anyway, anyone have focal 61/2 speakers replaced ? What do u think about the sound ?
     
  10. Oct 26, 2013 at 7:14 PM
    #270
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    Yes, you need to replace the stock tweeter, as well as the stock head unit.

    The stock HU is detuned to allow the stock speakers to survive.
     
  11. Oct 26, 2013 at 10:43 PM
    #271
    tomminator855

    tomminator855 Well-Known Member

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    So stock HU cant push enough power for the speakers i am replacing ?
     
  12. Oct 26, 2013 at 11:25 PM
    #272
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    Both power and EQ.

    The best speakers on the planet will not sound much better than stock with the stock HU.
     
  13. Nov 10, 2013 at 9:10 AM
    #273
    07terry

    07terry Active Member

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    can ANYONE PLEASE HELP WITH REAR DIFF NOT LOCKING UP have pulled out clean as a pin clicks in dash but nothing at actuator so checked locking fork inside rearend moves freely so put in lock making sure actuator is in locked position rear was locked but wouldnt unlock so i pulled back out slid fork into unkoc then replaced actuator any help ?
     
  14. Nov 10, 2013 at 1:03 PM
    #274
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    Try posting in the right section.

    This is Audio and Video, in a thread about speaker upgrades.
     
  15. Nov 12, 2013 at 10:40 AM
    #275
    07terry

    07terry Active Member

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    sorry to bother you rich im new herre always been in military and done my n
    own now im disabled in the wounded warrior thought it was in that feed again sorry
     
  16. Nov 12, 2013 at 6:43 PM
    #276
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for your service and your personal sacrifice.
     
  17. Dec 4, 2013 at 8:13 AM
    #277
    TacomaZeus

    TacomaZeus Member

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    I have A 2010 Access Cab, It doesnt have speakers in the rear doors. Without pulling it all apart does anyone know if it would still have holes in the door frame or would i have to make some.
     
  18. Dec 5, 2013 at 8:13 AM
    #278
    snowrx

    snowrx Active Member

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    My 2013 still had the door holes, just have to take care to transfer the hole center to your door panel before you start cutting, and select a low profile grille.
    I found some mesh ones and mounted them from behind a smoothly cut circle.
     
  19. Dec 5, 2013 at 3:32 PM
    #279
    TacomaZeus

    TacomaZeus Member

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    thanks Snowrx
     
  20. Dec 31, 2013 at 8:11 AM
    #280
    Y2kbaja

    Y2kbaja Well-Known Member

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    Stupid noob speaker question. This is my first speaker purchase for any of my cars. 2005 DC with Pioneer deck. I bought 4-6.5 Kicker speakers and had time to put 1 in the back door--sounds worse than stock. I'm returning two of them and will put the others in the back door since I already opened the box and used them.
    For the front, should I put 6x9 or 6.5 component speakers in? I rarely listen to loud music, I would rather have clearer sound at lower volumes. Sub is out of the question since all the space in the truck is usually stuffed with camping gear.
    Thanks.
     
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