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DIY: Basic Speaker Upgrade- 2nd Gen Access Cab

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by maverick491, Oct 1, 2007.

  1. Chickenmunga

    Chickenmunga Nuggety

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    I'm guessing you meant 'worse' as in 'sounds weaker'. The speakers you bought probably are expecting more power, such as an amp. They sound bad because the stock head unit doesn't have the power to push them.

    6x9 vs. 6.5 is relative to your own tastes, but typically a 6.5 produces a more accurate sound.

    For what you are describing, you want a small amplifier and a good set of front door speakers.

    1. Rear door speakers are not a concern. In fact, I have my fader set fully forward because I don't notice any help from the rear.
    2. Get a reasonably good set of component speakers for the front. Note that you will need brackets, I recommend Mr. Marv
    3. A small amp will provide the clarity. Any amp should be able to do this at low volume. It takes more power and better equipment to continue providing clarity at high volume. Find a small 2-channel amplifier with speaker-level and preamp inputs. You will use the speaker-level inputs for current setup, and have the preamp inputs if you ever need them in the future. You will need to find a spot to mount it, either under a seat or in the rear cubby. It will probably be the size of a ream of paper or less.

    If you really don't want the amp, go to the store and listen to speakers that are plugged into the cheapest head unit they have AND not plugged into an amp. Try to find the best sounding pair at the best price and go with that.
     
  2. Y2kbaja

    Y2kbaja Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. Don't really want an amp and don't have factory HU. Have Pioneer. So a decent set of components will be better it sounds.
     
  3. Chickenmunga

    Chickenmunga Nuggety

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    You need to be careful because last time I checked, deck power isn't going to push a set of components properly... but then again, I haven't bothered keeping up on things.
     
  4. clcoyle

    clcoyle Well-Known Member

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  5. Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    My Kenwood drives the Polk components just fine.

    It's still only 2 speakers on the channel and the impedance it the same.
     
  6. JPB1993

    JPB1993 New Member

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    Wow. Super clean install. Any other projects in the works?
     
  7. nevenelestate

    nevenelestate Well-Known Member

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    This was exactly the same for my 2012, thanks snowrx for posting this info. I have been wanting to do this for a long time and finally knocked it out last night.
    Left:
    violet L-
    pink L+

    Right:
    blue R-
    Light green R+

    Now I need to cut a hole in the door panel and make a cover for it, going to use the method Bass Mechanic used in this thread http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/audio-video/46323-09-access-cab-rear-speakers.html#post812866

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  8. 303tacoma

    303tacoma Bad Karma is a Bitch

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  9. SlowComa666

    SlowComa666 Well-Known Member

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  10. nxrunner

    nxrunner Well-Known Member

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  11. smithm1979

    smithm1979 Member

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    So as usual with this sort of thing, a lot of info here now I have more questions. I'll be replacing the HU and the speakers. Don't want/need to add a sub, just want more volume/clarity. From what I've gathered, it's not really necessary to replace the rears, can if you want but they are used more for "fill". I may or may not replace them, not sure. As far as the fronts go, there are the stock 6x9 in the kick panel and then the 5 1/4 (?) higher up in the door that are used as tweeters. What would be my best bet for replacing these?
    Option 1- Replace the 6x9 in the kick panel with some 6 1/2, just leave the stock tweeters there
    Option 2-Same as above but replace the stock tweeters with another set of 6 1/2
    Option 3-Get a component set, put the woofers in the kick panel and the tweeters where the stock tweeters are
    For simplicity/cost, I'd really rather not add an amp, I'm hoping that a new HU will power this. I'm far from an audiophile, just looking for a little bit better sound.
     
  12. fizik

    fizik Accidental Offroader

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    smithm, you sound like you are in the same boat as me. I'm going to wait until the weather gets nicer up here before I upgrade though.

    Option 1: A number of folks get a 2-way or 3-way 6x9 or a 2-way 6.5 and replace the front 6x9s. you can leave the stock tweeter connected or disconnect it.

    Option 2: Someone did manage to get a 3" mid to fit in the stock tweeter location, but he also added a tweeter to the sail panel as well. However, you most likely will not get a 6.5 to fit there. The stock tweeter is pretty small.

    Option 3: yup. Lots of people do that too. i think that's the route I'm going to take.

    most HUs will put out from 15 to 20 watts/channel RMS. You will want a set of speakers with a high sensitivity, like 90db or higher. you can find plenty of speakers by JL audio, Infinity and others in the 45 - 75 watt range and in the $80 - $150/pr range.

    Also, keep in mind that the speaker hole in your door isn't a standard size. You'll have to buy or make an adapter. A lot of people around here swear by stuff made by another member named MrMarv. You can also get adapters at www.crutchfield.com and www.tacotunes.com.

    Most guys also do some sound/vibration dampening to their doors as well to improve sounds quality.
     
  13. gearcruncher

    gearcruncher Well-Known Member

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    subbed

    Just installed right side steering wheel controls for Bluetooth .
    Now waiting for the Acws controller from Taco tunes so I can install the new head unit .
    After the temps warm up , sound deadening and fresh speakers up front with an amp and sub in behind the seats
     
  14. smithm1979

    smithm1979 Member

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    Fizik, thanks for the reply. Yeah I read this whole post so I'm aware of the need for an adapter. I'll probably do some sound deadening as well.
     
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