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DIY: Basic Speaker Upgrade- 2nd Gen Access Cab

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by maverick491, Oct 1, 2007.

  1. Dec 31, 2013 at 12:37 PM
    #281
    Y2kbaja

    Y2kbaja Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. Don't really want an amp and don't have factory HU. Have Pioneer. So a decent set of components will be better it sounds.
     
  2. Dec 31, 2013 at 4:47 PM
    #282
    Chickenmunga

    Chickenmunga Nuggety

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    You need to be careful because last time I checked, deck power isn't going to push a set of components properly... but then again, I haven't bothered keeping up on things.
     
  3. Jan 16, 2014 at 3:17 PM
    #283
    clcoyle

    clcoyle Well-Known Member

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  4. Jan 16, 2014 at 6:22 PM
    #284
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    My Kenwood drives the Polk components just fine.

    It's still only 2 speakers on the channel and the impedance it the same.
     
  5. Mar 4, 2014 at 8:04 AM
    #285
    JPB1993

    JPB1993 New Member

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    Wow. Super clean install. Any other projects in the works?
     
  6. Jun 17, 2014 at 6:12 AM
    #286
    nevenelestate

    nevenelestate Well-Known Member

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    This was exactly the same for my 2012, thanks snowrx for posting this info. I have been wanting to do this for a long time and finally knocked it out last night.
    Left:
    violet L-
    pink L+

    Right:
    blue R-
    Light green R+

    Now I need to cut a hole in the door panel and make a cover for it, going to use the method Bass Mechanic used in this thread http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/audio-video/46323-09-access-cab-rear-speakers.html#post812866

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  7. Jul 3, 2014 at 7:18 AM
    #287
    303tacoma

    303tacoma Bad Karma is a Bitch

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  8. Aug 10, 2014 at 1:10 PM
    #288
    SlowComa666

    SlowComa666 Well-Known Member

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  9. Oct 27, 2014 at 12:29 AM
    #289
    nxrunner

    nxrunner Well-Known Member

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  10. Feb 26, 2015 at 3:26 AM
    #290
    smithm1979

    smithm1979 Member

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    So as usual with this sort of thing, a lot of info here now I have more questions. I'll be replacing the HU and the speakers. Don't want/need to add a sub, just want more volume/clarity. From what I've gathered, it's not really necessary to replace the rears, can if you want but they are used more for "fill". I may or may not replace them, not sure. As far as the fronts go, there are the stock 6x9 in the kick panel and then the 5 1/4 (?) higher up in the door that are used as tweeters. What would be my best bet for replacing these?
    Option 1- Replace the 6x9 in the kick panel with some 6 1/2, just leave the stock tweeters there
    Option 2-Same as above but replace the stock tweeters with another set of 6 1/2
    Option 3-Get a component set, put the woofers in the kick panel and the tweeters where the stock tweeters are
    For simplicity/cost, I'd really rather not add an amp, I'm hoping that a new HU will power this. I'm far from an audiophile, just looking for a little bit better sound.
     
  11. Feb 26, 2015 at 1:51 PM
    #291
    fizik

    fizik Accidental Offroader

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    smithm, you sound like you are in the same boat as me. I'm going to wait until the weather gets nicer up here before I upgrade though.

    Option 1: A number of folks get a 2-way or 3-way 6x9 or a 2-way 6.5 and replace the front 6x9s. you can leave the stock tweeter connected or disconnect it.

    Option 2: Someone did manage to get a 3" mid to fit in the stock tweeter location, but he also added a tweeter to the sail panel as well. However, you most likely will not get a 6.5 to fit there. The stock tweeter is pretty small.

    Option 3: yup. Lots of people do that too. i think that's the route I'm going to take.

    most HUs will put out from 15 to 20 watts/channel RMS. You will want a set of speakers with a high sensitivity, like 90db or higher. you can find plenty of speakers by JL audio, Infinity and others in the 45 - 75 watt range and in the $80 - $150/pr range.

    Also, keep in mind that the speaker hole in your door isn't a standard size. You'll have to buy or make an adapter. A lot of people around here swear by stuff made by another member named MrMarv. You can also get adapters at www.crutchfield.com and www.tacotunes.com.

    Most guys also do some sound/vibration dampening to their doors as well to improve sounds quality.
     
  12. Feb 26, 2015 at 2:20 PM
    #292
    gearcruncher

    gearcruncher Well-Known Member

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    subbed

    Just installed right side steering wheel controls for Bluetooth .
    Now waiting for the Acws controller from Taco tunes so I can install the new head unit .
    After the temps warm up , sound deadening and fresh speakers up front with an amp and sub in behind the seats
     
  13. Feb 26, 2015 at 5:17 PM
    #293
    smithm1979

    smithm1979 Member

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    Fizik, thanks for the reply. Yeah I read this whole post so I'm aware of the need for an adapter. I'll probably do some sound deadening as well.
     
  14. May 30, 2015 at 5:36 AM
    #294
    weldo

    weldo Well-Known Member

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    Subd for awesomeness!
     
  15. Jul 13, 2015 at 12:39 PM
    #295
    Zonktified

    Zonktified Well-Known Member

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  16. Nov 30, 2015 at 8:27 PM
    #296
    GuroKC

    GuroKC Member

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    I have a 2015 AC and recently installed Focal IS690TOY 6x9 components in the door. These are specially made for Toyota and come with all hardware and adapters to fit factory locations in the front doors. I am using the stock head and an Audio Control LC2i line converter run to a JL M200/2 mounted under the passenger seat. The JL amp is a true Class D, which you need for under seat locations due to the restricted airflow. I then added a Kenwood KSC-SW11 powered subwoofer under the driver seat and ran the remote into the center console. Overall its a great system, with just the right ammount of thump and crystal clarity. There are no rear speakers in the 2015, just those shitty exciters in the headliner. I just left those connected to the HU. I had to go back and add sound deadening in the doors, and probally will eventually do the whole cab. It's a true sleeper, no indication visually of an aftermarket system.
     
  17. Dec 2, 2015 at 7:30 AM
    #297
    claysae12

    claysae12 Active Member

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  18. Dec 12, 2015 at 2:31 PM
    #298
    30birdy

    30birdy Active Member

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    Anybody try these .....Focal IC 690TOY
     
  19. Dec 12, 2015 at 3:04 PM
    #299
    SlowComa666

    SlowComa666 Well-Known Member

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    nice, overpriced coaxials that do nothing to get the soundstage above the ankle
     
  20. Dec 15, 2015 at 1:22 PM
    #300
    opentang

    opentang Well-Known Member

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    I bought the Infinity Kappa 693.11I 6x9 speakers & Infinity Reference 075TX tweeters to replace factory speakers in the front doors on my 2013 Double Cab SR5 (non-JBL). I didn't realize that I should have bought component speakers, rather than two-way coaxial speakers for this effort :confused: I understand that the factory oem speakers (6x9 and tweeters) are wired in a loop on each side (right and left).

    My question to the smart folks here is what is the best way to wire these new speakers with the factory HU and factory wiring. I have Metra wire harnesses and speaker brackets for the 6x9's, but am mostly worried about proper wiring of the aftermarket 6x9's and additional tweeters with stock hardware (or only 6x9 coaxials). Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!

    Infinity Kappa 6x9 Speaker URL: http://www.harmanaudio.com/car-speakers/KAPPA+693.11I.html?cgid=car-speakers&dwvar_KAPPA 693.11I_color=Black#prefn1=brand&prefn2=isRefurbished&srule=price-high-to-low&sz=12&start=1&prefv1=Infinity&prefv2=false

    Infinity Reference Tweeter URL: http://www.harmanaudio.com/car-speakers/REFERENCE+075TX.html?cgid=car-speakers&dwvar_REFERENCE 075TX_color=Black#prefn1=brand&prefn2=isRefurbished&srule=price-high-to-low&sz=12&start=1&prefv1=Infinity&prefv2=false

    Also, since the Infinity 6x9's have a unipivot coaxial tweeter, is it redundant and a power sacrifice to install the supplemental Infinity tweeters as well?
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2015
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