DIY Bolt-On Frame Plates for Sliders

I'll peek under my truck and tell you how many I used. I bought everything at Parkrose Hardware. It's a local Ace Hardware store on steroids...they have a huge selection. If you're not picky about metric or inch, any decent hardware store should work. Stay tuned for the fastener count...

 

8 fasteners per side. They have a 19mm head...maybe a 14mm body?? I can't remember that part and I'm not going to pull one out and check. I didn't use washers on the backside. I used larger steel plates with nuts welded to them. More info on the fasteners may be earlier in the build/development part of this thread?

 

DCLB frame plate files are ready for release! I only have a .dxf file at the moment (can't upload it to the first post but PM me with your email address and I'll send it to you). As soon as I have more files related to the DCLB, they'll get uploaded to the first post.

Big thanks to narshkey for finishing up the design on his own truck!

Now we just need to get someone with a regular cab (RC) truck to put in the work and we'll have a complete set.

 

I have been an active member of this site for a long time and often speak with vendors or original posters. This is the first time posting as it was felt that something could be given back to the community. Yes This site causes a bit of a hole in my pocket and my truck has been getting built up over time. At some point I may do a build thread but now is not that time.

I have been working on a slider design for a Tacoma. I was not happy with having to weld on a truck that may eventually have to be recalled for frame issues. I also did not want to drill any holes if I could avoid it. So I started designing something new. I spoke with some vendors, and members of the community and managed to come up with something a bit different.

I finished up the prototype this weekend and have started bolting it up. I did miss taking photos prior to painting to better show some details but as it was welded by a ticketed journeyman, there should be no problems. I will have pricing soon for anyone else that may be interested. It is mostly locals that have expressed interest. Please note I am in Canada and prices will reflect local rates. If an honest fabricator in the US is willing to work with me it may lower prices. Otherwise I will continue to use local fabrication. If anyone sees anything that should be changed for the next version I am all ears and welcome constructive feedback. (I do not want an argument and yes for hardcore offroading a second brace to the rear bar will be added. I am also looking into an extra bolt connection farther back.) If the weather improves I will try to get a better daylight shot as well as an underneath shot to better show the frame enclosure. Sliders also have bolt up connection for rear belly armor to be attached. They can either be attached directly to the slider or via an installed cross member. This limits drilling into the frame for armor also.



These are for DCLB and are 100% bolt on, no drilling required. They do encase the frame at 2 points and will cause increased frame rigidity.
They are built with 0.120 DOM tube, 0.125 H.S.S. and 0.125 plate. All hardware is Gr 8 galvanized and Stainless steel.
Checker plate inserts will be optional on shipped product.

They are heavy and awkward, recommended for 2 person install.


Thanks go out to a few members that helped with bending/fab and also some on a local site.

http://www.untitledoffroad.com

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-bolt-on-frame-plates-for-sliders.302192

Yes I have uploaded a base version of the frame plate on TW with mine having some unique modifications done to it. Special thanks to ‘1 Bored Clerk’ for his help with the original files.
No I will not give out my unique enclosed plate design or any measurements associated with construction. I will help or work with you if asked nicely. If only wanting the base plate so you can build your own sliders I am sure we can arrange something.
Local costs for steel/plasma and bending of base was in the $500-$650 CDN range. ($380-$500 USD)



Now for the legal stuff

These are an off road product and I am not liable if used for other than intended purposes. They should be used for off road only. I am not responsible for any misuse or damage caused by installing/using this product. I assume no liability in any way for any damages this may cause. I do retain all rights for design of unique elements


Please Note
This is a hobby and as such it takes a back seat to family and life. If and when I start production it will become a job and gain priority. If it takes me a while to get back to you it is because I am very busy. I am a Designer/Certified Engineering Technologist or Cad junkie if you will. I do not post often but am still around and actively on the site. If pics are too small I can repost larger please let me know.

 

Those look awesome! This is also a reminder for me to get the standard DCLB file types updated. I'm so behind on my forum duties!!!

 

Nice to see the UO nod there . Those look sweet, if I didn't own a set of sliders already I'd be all over getting a set of your prototypes

 

No worries. I attend a few local events on behalf of some sponsors so if you ever want to look at them feel free.

 

Nice! Looks great!

I put sliders so far on the backburner I haven't even had time to do a second test fit of the templates!

Where is the uploaded file located? I'm not interested in your custom design, it looks heavy duty as hell though.

 

The upload file is in the original post. OR ask 1 Bored Clerk. I gave him both an autocad version and a DXF. I think he was having trouble loading dxf on this site.
(.dxf is easiest to send to fabricators as all machines use it for creating cutting templates.)
Also note that some of the holes may have to be sanded/slotted or enlarged due to vehicle specific frames. It is recommended to print out a paper copy first if you are able, and make sure of hole placement. See pic #1.
One of the fabricators mentioned that if he ever needed a tank designed and build he would contact me. The goal was to do it right the first time. They should handle the full weight of the truck loaded coming off a substantial drop. Of course I can not confirm that, YET.

 

You can pm me with your email and I will send the files to you. I just haven't uploaded everything yet.

 

Yep I sent him an email right after that post. I have a friend who has a water jet table, I gotta see what kind of files that thing can read. But I'll try get both files to do just as you said, print a set first. Definitely a great job for sure!

 

1 Bored Clerk thanks for going the extra mile and making these to share.

narshkey thank you for finalizing the dclb version

I'm in the market for some sliders for my 2015 4x4 dclb and will pm you for a copy of the file. would like to make my own instead of buying the allpro apex series that i been eyeing

 

Got ahold of the template and was able to have it printed on a plotter. Time to cut it out and mock it up tomorrow I did a measure check and the print scale is off alittle bit compared to the digital file measurements

 

It's not uncommon for the scale to be off a tiny little bit when printing. It should still be really close though. If it's off by much at all, it may have been scaled (fit to page) when printed.

 

So far so good. I agree with Bored Clerk, Often printing scales. It is a pain sometimes but happens. If you are out a lot I have a trick to overcome it but it is a pain in the but. Keep me posted.
You may want to trace it onto cardboard or some other medium after you fit it up. See pics. It might give you more stability. Remember it does not have to be perfect you are just making sure everything is in the right spot. Also pay extra attention to driver side. There can be extra equipment added from dealer.
Once you have the metal cut do a mock up with it prior to welding/painting. It is easy to get the fab shop just to paint it at the same time but you need to do a double check.
It is easy to slot or elongate holes if you only have to do it a small amount. It just requires patience. I used a dremmel with a carbide bit. A grinder can also work. It was slow going and you HAVE to have gloves and eye protection from all the little bits. One thing to remember when enlarging holes. The big ones don't mater what you do as they are for the bolts already on the frame. The slotted holes can not be stretched wider only slotted longer. Go slow. Better to have it just fit then to have too much play. A rule of thumb is 2mm or 1/8" hole larger than the size of your bolt. Feel free to add a few extra holes if you want but they are not required.

 

Also, be sure to post up here if you have to make changes at all. If we see the same issue crop up we can get in there and potentially modify the CAD.

 

so I finally got to sticking the template to cardboard and cut it out to do a mock fit.


There are a couple of holes (3) that is on the edge of the template holes so I will need to redraw the plans to fit my needs. Also I will make sure that it doesn't print scale to page size to see if that does the trick. I'm only off by 1/4" (0.25") so it should be good to help me adjust it to reprint. Hope I can use the file you guys provided me to adjust it. I have access to solidworks and autocad so I will see.

Also I'm thinking I can get a plasma cutting machine and just cut it myself always wanted a machine anyways. Just need to make a cutting template for the outside frame edge out of wood from a print; just offsetting the lines by a certain distance in relation of the OD of plasma gun tip to the centerline. Then just drill the hole with a drill press. To bend the metal I can make a press tool like I did when I bend sheet metal to skin my camper. Just need to make a beefy one.

Stay tune and thanks to those that is making it possible for me to do this.

 

I have made my own frame brackets. Similar to 1 bored clerks. Thanks for that man
Anyways, I was wondering how everyone is bolting on the the 115degree angle on the very front of the bracket? From what I can see, there's no way to get a wrench inside the rectangular frame. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

 

All of the backing plates I made had a nut welded to it. For the area you're talking about, you need to make a backing plate (2"x3") works well with a nut welded right in the center on the back. The plate will slide in sideways through the available opening. Then you turn it 90 degrees to bridge the opening and bolt your slider up. You can reach into the cavity where the backing plate is through the side of the crossmember allowing you to hold the plate in the correct orientation while you start the bolt. You only need a wrench on the outside as once you get the bolt tight enough you won't need your fingers inside anymore, the plate will have enough friction to finish tightening the bolt.

Is that clear? If not, ask again...but louder. Haha.

 

I tried installing the sliders without the backing plate in there.... A fender washer will fit and you can get a few fingers in and position the nut. A wrench will also fit but make sure you use an open box end or your wrench will be part of the install. This is extremely frustrating, and you must have long fingers. I think I spent 2hrs on it then just gave up and said there has to be a better way.......needless to say it needs to come off to do like bored clerk said. It is super easy if done first. You can re-position it once the plates are on to be in the right spot. It should be the first step. We should almost put a big post about it as I am sure others have done the same thing.