DIY Bolt-On Frame Plates for Sliders

I did not use a notcher on mine. I found a template online, printed it out and traced the template on the tube. My welder said it was the easiest and most accurate he has ever had to deal with.
The easy way is just to use a fish mouth and grind a bit or fill with weld. Either way works and is very time effective.
As for a bender. What has been said is true. For a one off the best thing you can do is find someone that has one and offer to work on projects together. I know that it is nice to have an extra set of hands for a few things and if by lending out a tool in my own yard I get it, then all the better. By the way I built mine without a bender and found someone via local forums to give me a hand. We made one mistake with the bending but it was fixable and you can not even tell as my welder did a great job.

 

A local forum member/friend is a great option. Find someone with a bender near you then just boter the crap out of them until they help. Haha!! (Seriously, don't do that...just ask nicely).

You could also build your entire slider out of square tubing and just cut the various angles you want.

 

These are all good points. Thank you! Thanks to Bored Clerk (not sure what your real name is), the "hardest part" of my slider build is complete because he made it the "easiest part" by providing the files. Again many thanks to you. My progress might be slow (involved with the family business, adopting a toddler, married...all GOOD things), but I promise to post some progress pictures before I turn 40. That gives me a solid 9 years.

 

Ha! 9 years will put your build in just under my timeline. It took me forever! Once you get started, it'll go quickly. Setting up and making that first cut or first weld is what takes the longest for me.

 

Trying to open and down load the DCLB files but only able to get the general info one to work. Am I missing something. Cheers

 

Are you having issues downloading or opening? Those are separate issues, I think.

Depending on what software you have, you may not be able to open the cut files or the CAD. A shop that does laser/waterjet/plasma should have the appropriate software...that file is for them. You can open the print file if you want to see the flat file. You can print that full-size if you want to cut the plates yourself at home.

Does that answer your question? If not, let me know. I want you to have sliders!

 

If what BC said does not work...

One other option, depending on where you live is, I may be able to get the base of the sliders done for you. I have worked with a few shops when I did the prototype and can get another run done. Then you can either build the rest yourself or we can figure out what you want and build it.
Now if you go through me I have the optional file for the stronger attachment but it is more expensive to fabricate. Your call.

 

Tried to download the files on my phone and it looks like the file size is stored in there just not able to open them except for the general dimensions, I can view that one. Can't open the print file for flat layout either. I will email them to my buddy who uses solidworks and see if he can open them. I want to print them out 1/1 on paper card stock and see how they match up with my frame bumps, rivets, bolts etc. before I send them to my cutter. Bending them won't be a problem as I bend 10ft .375 plate all day long.

 

The print file opens on my phone. Try opening it on a computer; it's just a regular PDF. The print file is 1:1 so don't scale it at all when you print. I've not heard any complaints about fitment but I appreciate you wanting to check first.

 

Thanks for the info. My buddy said the files open and look fine. So off the the printer I go this weekend.

A question, is 3/16 plate thickness enough for these? Will they take a full side if a DCLB truck being supported and dragged over rocks?

 

The thickness is enough. and yes they should work. if you are planning on abusing them you may need a good backing plate along with it. mine handled an accident and saved the truck from being written off. wife's car not so lucky. so yes they can be made strong enough. most other manufacturers are using something similar. just make sure you bolt them up good. I recommend gr8 bolts and have them coated or galvanized (yellow). last point is to spray your frame with fluid film prior to install. if they are situated on the frame with nothing between then you can get rust forming. yes even with them painted.
If you are abusing them with heavy off road then definitely look into backing plates.

Sry for spelling and formating on small device.

 

What Narshkey said. I used 2"x 3" x .1875" thick plates on the backside of each fastener. It's held up well on my truck. I wouldn't just use standard washers on the backside. You can get heavy square washers at some hardware stores too, so look around.

 

My prototype did use fender washers but also had the frame enclosed so it equals a bit more strength. All since then have had backing plates. (even with the frame enclosure) It is just safer to do.

BE VARY CAREFUL WELDING THE NUT TO THE PLATE. Or have a tap set handy. I had a bit to much heat go into a nut and made a big mess. It was fixable as we were going slow and had everything we needed to fix it. Almost had to re-drill the hole though.

 

Leaving the bolt in the nut can be very helpful here. It's a bit of a heat sink and it helps keep the nut round. Three decent welds on alternating faces of the nut and you're good.

 

Agreed. Just be careful not to put too much weld or the bolt is attached for good.

 

Hey everyone. So it's taken me far too long to get my sliders going, but I have finally finished them (minus paint). 1 Bored Clerk, thanks so much for starting this thread. I have come back time and time again while building my set.
I designed my own brackets, and purchased pre fabbed sliders from SummitRacing.com. They did a great job, and for the same price as all the material would've cost me, they saved me a ton of work haha.
Here's a few pics from my build.

 

Excellent! These project timelines can really stretch out. But the important part is that you got in there and got it done. Nice work and thanks for sharing!

 

Any one seen any drawings or CAD templates for a 16+ Tacoma for the mounting holes??

 

Not that I've seen. You could be the first one to develop them!

 

I may or may not have something for the 16+ I did not do a basic file for this forum unfortunately. I found that someone else was not very nice with my last file.

(a little bird said that if you print off the ones from previous gen and mock it up, it is easy to see what is out or what needs to be changed and by how much. Just remember slotting holes are your friends as long as you don't go crazy.)