DIY Bolt-On Frame Plates for Sliders

for $280 it would be cheaper to order prebuilt sliders

 

Yeah, that would be hard to swallow for sure. But, price isn't the point here...not for me, anyway. I don't like any of the cheaper bolt-on/weld-on sliders. The ones I like the best are the slee sliders and they're almost $1000. Besides, I want my own unique design!

Update:

Things take two to three times longer than you think...in general. So, following that rule, I didn't get done nearly as much as I'd hoped last weekend. I did get all of the backing plates done, though! Cut/drilled/welded nuts. My plan is to get the sliders bolted up for their final 'test fit' this weekend and make all the notes I need to alter the CAD file. I'll make a separate file for all of the backing plates that I made. Hopefully, we'll see a file release note next week!! With any luck, I'll also be able to make some headway actually welding the slider legs to these frame plates. I also got my Relentless skids in so I can start working those into the design. Lots to do!!

 

Sub'd. Great job so far.

Would be interested in the cad file to modify for DCSB if needed. I was looking at buying bolt on sliders until I added up the slider cost and the real killer....shipping.

I use a fab shop quite a bit and know I can get a great deal on laser cutting and bending. I have access to all of the metal fab equipment needed to build the rest myself.

 

I think AC and DCSB frames are the same. Or close enough that these plates will fit either one. We'll see soon enough, I guess!

 

I am interested on the CAD File too. How much???? $

 

Files will be free, my friend.

 

Then I'll have to send you a PayPal gift for your hard work.

 

im really looking forward to seeing pictures of the finished product. it sounds like a really cool design, i work with CAD and i love designing little projects like this.

 

I'll have updated photos next week. It may be photos of a sad amount of progress but I'll make sure to get photos up. Thanks for following along! And, thanks for being patient.

 

I am also interested in this. I really don't like the weld on/bolt on solutions out there for the same reasons of effecting warranty. Also I have not been able to find Tacoma specific vendors in GA. Shipping is going to be a problem if I have to pay for shipping from CA to GA all the time.

 

Alright, made some headway with the frame plates! Got everything bolted on like they were going to stay there and it looked good. I made a lot of notes on making slight adjustments to the locations of the holes/slots and I'll get that altered in CAD sometime this week (I know, this week is already over half done). Still didn't get as much done as I wanted because I only had about 5 hours to work and I spent a fair bit of that time mounting up my Relentless skids...just the front and mid at this point. The T-case skid gets a new bracket and hooks up to the frame brackets. Anyway, here are some pics:









Blurry...poor lighting...blah, blah, blah. If I wasn't using my iPhone, you wouldn't get any pictures! Don't worry, you'll get used to it.

 

Ha! Yeah, I guess you could say that. I'm going to add a welded brace between the two front mounts (way inside the boxed portion of the frame) to make it easier to bolt them in. You wont have to reach all the way to the front one because it'll be hooked to the second one! I'll need to tweak on some of the backing plates to fit around welds and whatnot. I see why most companies seem to use 2"x2" plates. Probably plenty big and they'll get in the way of less stuff. Lesson learned. I will also have to figure out how to deal with the brake lines on the drivers side frame rail. They run across most of the mounting holes which super sucks. A combination of brake line bending and spacing will get the job done...just not sure yet where to bend and where to space. I would love to hear from anyone that has bent brake lines while they're on the vehicle...whats the best way to do it without kinking the lines? It would be hard to fit a bender in there...

I have the 8 legs cut and ready to weld on (4 on each side) and I also have the main 2"x3" rectangular tubing ready to weld on as well. I'm hoping to get a solid 8-10 hours in on it this Saturday.

We have a great project at work right now so I haven't been able to peel away any time to fix up the CAD. Still shooting for a release this week. I'm not sure if I can actually post the files here because of their format?? I'll probably just ask for people to PM me with their personal emails and I will send all the files to each individual in an email. We'll see. When they are ready, I'll post up how to request them in a normal reply and I'll edit the first post to include the info as well.

 

Well, okay...just bend 'em. Got it! I'm looking forward to Saturday. I've got all day to work and a very clear picture of what needs to be done.

 

Files are done! I'll put up a more detailed post tonight that has all of my update pictures as well as the details of how to request the files, etc.

 

Alright, update photos!

These are the two front backing plates. These reside way up inside the boxed section of the frame by the transmission crossmember. Welding them together like this makes it so much easier to bolt up. You have to bridge them like I did here to clear a ridge inside the frame. Also note that the rear plate is turned 90 degrees compared to the front one. There is a second layer of steel inside the boxed frame rail that requires this with my 2" x 4" plates.


More backing plates and some brake line 'adjustments'. I easily and carefully bent the lines by hand. I had to make adjustments in several areas as you'll see.


More backing plates and brake line adjustments. And my crotch.


Here is one of the backing plates that I made a standoff bracket for the brake lines. This alleviates a lot of clearance problems and keeps from having to bend the brake lines so severely.


Welding legs on frame brackets. Let's just agree to NOT comment on my welds.


Test fit. Yup, it all looks good.


Welding on the main rails.


Boom! Fits. Clearance is at least 3/4" all around the main rail. I hope that's enough.


Drivers side


Picture of dirty truck and metal


I'm working on the cad for the parts of the sliders that will stick out from here...as well as the angle gussets where the legs meet up with the frame plate. I feel like all the really tedious slow stuff is done so that's exciting. Still need to modify the Relentless Fab transfer case skid to hook up to these sliders. I'll be out of town through this next weekend then back at it ASAP after that.

 

Awesome idea and thanks for offering these up free!!! I'd like to see some "stress tests" when you're done like a hi-lift-lift test.. Seems like a pretty useful test that a lot of people that build sliders show and is important in bolt on setups.. I'm sure you've built these sturdy enough to do it, just would like to see some pics. Also.. Musta missed the instruction on how to get the CAD files...?

 

**SEE THE FIRST POST IN THIS THREAD. ALL AVAILABLE FILES ARE NOW ATTACHED FOR DOWNLOAD. NO NEED TO PM ME UNLESS YOU HAVE A QUESTION OR ISSUE THAT YOU WOULD RATHER NOT ASK/AIR DIRECTLY IN THIS THREAD.**

Okay, let's talk files. After all, this whole thing started with the promise that I would release the files to anyone who requests them.

I am only offering files for the frame plates for free.

I have been asked by several members for the files for my complete sliders. I like having one of a kind sliders so those files are on lockdown for now. I'd be happy to talk to anyone about designing custom sliders just for them (files only...you build yourself). PM me if you're interested in that. If I get enough interest, I'll see how to deal with forum rules regarding selling the files. They wouldn't be very expensive and I wouldn't 'build some just like these' either. No rip offs...just originals. And, just to be clear, I have not sold a single thing yet. Im clean.

Here's what I have available:

Frame plate CAD (Solidworks 2012, 2013)
Frame plate cut file (DWG) - This file type should work for any laser or waterjet cutter. I assume it would work for a CNC plasma as well.
Quoting document and project overview (PDF) - This document gives all the information that a bender should need to get the project done. It's what I submitted when I had mine done and there were no questions and the end product was spot on.
Print file (PDF) - This is a print file that you can take to FedEx/Kinko's, Office Depot, etc to print paper versions of the frame plates. You can use these to check approximate fitment on your truck (DCSB, AC), what mods you may need to make for other trucks (RC, DCLB), or to glue to metal and start cutting!

What to do with the files once you receive them:

When I sent out for quote, I sent the PDF and the DWG. This allows the shop to calculate material, cut time, and # of bends. Plus, if you want to go with the shop, they already have all of your files. You can just give them the green light and they can go.

The Solidworks file would be for those of you that want to make changes on your own. You will need access to Solidworks 2013 to do much with it. I can save out stp files (and other stuff upon request) for those of you using other CAD programs. Please only request the CAD files (or any other version of this file) if you are ACTUALLY going to use them.

I would prefer not to make a fully dimensioned drawing but, for those of you who would like to cut all of this yourself, at home (don't recommend unless shops in your area are really expensive), I could probably get that done. I'd ask a guy at work to handle that for me.

Stipulations:

1. Be cool. *Amended* Don't get these files then turn around and start selling them (files or frame plates). You can sell the frame plates as part of your complete sliders...but I will require you to post a link in your for sale thread back to this thread to give credit to my hard work. Giving a shout out on your website, if you have one, would be cool as well. Also, please do not give these files to some shop without passing on these rules. This is open-source and I would prefer if it stayed that way. I won't, of course, call your mom if you do start selling them, I'll just look disapprovingly in your direction. Also, ask questions...and answer questions. Noob or not, doesn't matter in this thread. Hopefully any jackass people/comments will be ignored. Don't be 'that guy' in here. Thanks.

2. Share. Post up your project and cost findings. I would love it if you either put your build/findings in this thread or put a link to your slider build in this thread. I will try to work with those of you with standard cabs and DCLB to get a file for those as well. If you use my CAD and modify to fit either a SC or DCLB, please offer it up here. Keep it active and alive. The whole reason I've spent HOURS messing with this is to get our learn on! And bump up the creativity!

3. Feedback. If you need to tweak the frame plate (hole doesn't line up well, etc) when you get it back from cutting/bending, let me know so I can see about tweaking the CAD file for everyone else! Post it up in here and send me a PM.

That's pretty much it. Simple.

Send me a PM with your PERSONAL EMAIL address and I'll send you whichever files you request. Make sure you specify which files you want! Any request outside of what is listed above will be filled if possible...as soon as I can make it happen. I want your personal email address for simplicity. I know how to attach files to an email with relative success. If you can embed downloadable files directly in a thread, let me know how and I'll be happy to place them right here for your convenience! Thanks.

**DISCLAIMER** You are downloading and using these files at your own risk. I am not an engineer and have not verified the strength or safety of this design. Due to manufacturing tolerances from Toyota as well as the tolerances found in the cutting/bending process, I cannot guarantee that any frame plate made directly from this file will fit your particular vehicle.

 

^ thanks! I'm no where near ready to be building my sliders but when I am I know where I'll come back to!

 

I jacked up the side of my truck with a floor jack. It flexed a little bit. I'm going to be adding gussets where the legs meet the frame plate. We'll see how it plays out in the real world. Jacking your truck up is A LOT different than dropping your truck on a rock. The forces are much greater out in the dirt! Tying my trans skid into the frame plate will help (it'll tie in right between the bottom transmission crossmember mount and the bolt that goes through the bottom of the frame into the carrier bearing crossmember). I can see why most manufacturers ask you to drill a few spots on the bottom of the frame, though. Worst case scenario, I'll drill one spot in the back. There is an existing hole through the first (of two) layers of frame near the back of the frame plate. It would be the place I choose. Like I said, we'll see.

 

Nice work! Good on you to share the files and knowledge.