DIY Bolt-On Frame Plates for Sliders

Just not going your way today is it Ivan..

 

Interesting. Beefed went a different way for the front mount. It certainly puts a leg pretty far forward, which is good. Beefed is nice enough to give backing plates with handles too which is a nice touch! I do like the added bit at the back...ramp for the front hanger on the rear springs...I looked into that but I didn't see any nice way to attach it without drilling/welding. Is there a hole there already in the frame that I missed? I'm up way too late (can't sleep for some reason) and might have mis-read your post. Are you going to drill the frame and use the front mount on the beefed sliders or just butt-weld the brackets together and not bolt the front L to the frame?

 

I would cut off the L brackets just so I had more positioning flexibility. You could totally just weld them on as is, though. It would certainly be strong and get the job done quickly...which has it's benefits!

 

Yeah, I think I'm gonna butt weld the brackets together and remove his bolting point and use yours on the cross member. The one all the way in the back by the rear spring needs to be drilled. I can live with one hole. Either that or I relocate the legs...
Not sure yet. Relocating the first leg wouldn't be too bad. And with the rear mount utilized and drilled into the frame, it should be super solid. Or just bring the legs in closer together and weld them all to the frame plate like the Slee sliders

 

I have amended the stipulations in post #45 under the 'Be Cool' rule to more accurately reflect my thoughts on how these files should be used. I still DO NOT want someone selling the files or bare frame plates, however, I have decided that it's okay to sell my frame plates as long as they are fully attached to your own sliders...but I will require that, if you go this route, you post a link to this thread in your for sale thread and give proper credit (for doing the work and offering up for free the files) on your website if you have one. I feel this is a very small price to pay for offering a bolt on slider that requires almost no development time/money. Also, please do not give these files to a shop without passing on these rules.

Thanks!

 

I agree. Some people have no morals...

 

I've gotten some feedback that there needs to be a second 'V' cut into the frame plate on the underside of the frame to accommodate a rivet on DC trucks. I'm not sure if it is only on some years or not. This is the first I've heard of it but I'm going to make the adjustments to the file. Those of you with DCSB trucks that have already received these files, please let me know if you had to modify them to fit your truck. I know Toyota likes to change things here and there... Maybe we can figure out what years are affected and have two sets of files. No need to take material out if it's not necessary, right?

Thanks to EddyRRT for the heads up!

BTW, I'm still hoping to get some assistance from TW members to get files done for RC and DCLB trucks! Anyone willing to work with me on that, please let me know.

 

Nothing, its all good

 

Well, I finally took my truck out for a little light wheeling. My fiance and I went out to Tillamook State Forest for a little Friday morning fun.


Yup, just got done peeing. Don't worry about it.




My awesome and goofy fiance having a little fun.


Stock truck with a couple hundred pounds of armor means you REALLY NEED armor. We rubbed or banged every piece of armor off of something. The low-hanging exhaust crossover cover took the brunt of the abuse but nothing was exempt...including the rear bumper, trailer hitch, trailer towing harness, and, of course, the much maligned factory mud flaps. No damage to anything but a lift would have made the ride a little smoother. Oh well, it was a good time and I was really happy to find that the Tacoma didn't feel too long on the trails compared to my old FJC. Anyway, it was awesome to put all my hard work, time, and money to use on the trail. Felt good. I had been mostly avoiding off-roading because of the lack of armor...but it's on now!!

FYI. The trails in TSF were University Firepower and Cedar Tree. Conditions were great! Lots of puddles, a little mud, rocks and roots but nothing that felt sketchy or like you were tearing anything up needlessly. All pics were taken by my Fiance with her trusty iPhone 4 with OlloClip.

 

I finally got mine all welded up and back from sandblast/powdercoat

I was hoping the textured powdercoat would hide my ugly welds better...


All the holes line up great. Not as fancy as 1boredclerks, but he did a great job on his sliders and on these frameplates.
Again, thank you so much Patrick!

 

Awesome!! Those look great! It's been such a long process for you...it's got to feel good to be D O N E with that.

I feel your pain on the textured powdercoat. In my case I've learned, any paint, no matter how textured, just makes my crappy welds look crappier! Haha...

 

Are you selling these? I am very interested in building my own sliders. What a great bolt on design!

 

The files for the frame plates are free. The slider itself is all mine. Just PM me your personal email and I'll send the files out to you. Read post #45 for details about what you'll get and the 'rules' associated with the files.

 

Damn thanks for all the hard work, sliders are looking good.
Subd for a few months down the road after my current projects are completed I would enjoy getting the files and creating my own.

 

If you thinking about building your own sliders, these plates are the way to go. Or buy a set of weld on sliders. Then fit up and weld them to these plates.

 

Just to clarify, when installing these, the bolts for the trans crossmember need to be removed, and of course transmission will need to be supported?

 

Yes.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...ullaculla-build-pic-heavy-24.html#post8835201
And I should clarify mine was a pain in the ass because I have to remove 80lbs of skids first

 

Actually, you don't. I made 2"x3" plates with a nut welded to it. It will just slide inside of the hole in the angled portion sideways. Then you twist is 90 degrees to bridge the hole and you can hold it in place with you finger through the oval hole in the back side of the trans crossmember support that's welded to the frame.

I'm sure that wasn't clear at all, but you can bolt these up without dropping the crossmember. It all depends on the design of the backing plate you choose to make, and how flexible your fingers are. Bullaculla's fancy aluminum job is certainly top notch though!

 

Actually, that was CrMo steel
And I thought about cutting it to fit into the rectangle hole, but was too lazy

 

Haha...of course it was. What was I thinking?