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DIY - Build and install a Bussmann RTMR Fuse/Relay Block

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by tacozord, Nov 4, 2015.

  1. Apr 10, 2016 at 7:06 PM
    #221
    alphabravo

    alphabravo Well-Known Member

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    I got most everything from Waytek and a few things from Del City. They both had the female tangless but in different minimum order quantities I think.
     
  2. Apr 11, 2016 at 1:25 PM
    #222
    TaylorU

    TaylorU KC HiLiTES Vendor

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    I still haven't quite decided on where I will source everything. I'm trying to go through as few vendors as possible to keep shipping costs to a minimum.

    I may end up doing exactly what @diverdale did and just use 12 GXL rather than pay an exorbitant amount of money for TXL and avoid having to trim the 10 gauge GXL (just because it sounds like a bit of a hassle).

    The two links below are likely the choices I will go with for wiring, as well as getting some welding wire at Home Depot if they sell it.

    http://www.wirebarn.com/10-Pack-18-...llowBrown-White-Orange-Pink-Violet_p_190.html

    http://www.wirebarn.com/BLACK-12-Gage-GXL-Wire_p_84.html
     
  3. Apr 11, 2016 at 2:44 PM
    #223
    rob1208

    rob1208 Well-Known Member

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  4. Apr 12, 2016 at 11:55 AM
    #224
    TaylorU

    TaylorU KC HiLiTES Vendor

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    Hey everyone,

    I have finally completed all of the research for this build and have gotten it organized enough in my own head that I am ready to go through with it. I am posting this to see if anyone wants to split an order from Waytek. It would save each of us about $60 on the entire project. When ordering the parts from Waytek for a single fuse block build, the total is about $205. This total jumps to $290 when the parts needed for two complete fuse blocks are added. The total would then be split two ways for a total of about $145 per person compared to the $205 if done separately, which is mainly due to the minimum order quantity restrictions. If someone in the states is interested in this, let me know. I would front the Waytek bill up front and then have the partner pay me through PayPal or in person, after which I would get them all the parts. The most efficient way to do this is to split only the Waytek order, as everything else would be basically a wash to split up.

    I have attached the PDF copies of all four of the final shopping carts from the vendors I will be purchasing everything from. These should help anyone else in the future if they too want to split orders with other folks.

    Currently, I am waiting to hear back from a TW member to see if he is interested in splitting it with me but it is far from certain right now.

    EDIT: This has no impact to anyone else, but I have decided to go with switchbacks rather than the Molex connectors so my personal Mouser order is a bit off. This is because I have the extra room and I don't want to spend the extra money on the Molex crimper tool.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 14, 2016
    tacozord [OP] and reidbailey like this.
  5. Apr 13, 2016 at 5:16 PM
    #225
    madsand

    madsand wanderer

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    Nice write up
     
    tacozord [OP] likes this.
  6. Apr 21, 2016 at 8:58 AM
    #226
    colokevin

    colokevin New Member

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    I'm in the planning/ordering parts stage for this build. I'm going to be using the Bussmann 15400 RFRM (10 relays + 40 fuses), but my question should apply to the RTMR as well. Is there a way to have some of the relayed and fused circuits "always-on" and some of them "ignition-on"? Can the internal busbars be broken/split so that half of each bus is wired "always-on" and the other half "ignition-on"? For the sake of conversation, let's say that I want 5 always-on relayed circuits, 5 ignition-on relayed circuits plus 20 always-on fused circuits, and 20 ignition-on fused circuits.
     
  7. Apr 21, 2016 at 10:22 AM
    #227
    rob1208

    rob1208 Well-Known Member

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    For the relayed circuits, its pretty easy. The bussmann box will always be hot from the get go. So all of your fused-only circuits will always be hot. The relays can be only on-ignition or anytime. For the relays:
    • Always On Circuit: All you need to do is run an always on power to your switch which then connects to the relay. you might be able to find an always on power circuit in stock fuse box in the cab (never looked so I could be wrong) or you could do what I did and just run a wire from one of the fused only circuits on the bussmann to my switch in the cab. As long as the switch always has power, you can power on the device connected to the relay.
    • Only On With Ignition: Just follow the wiring diagram @tacozord drew up (power to the switch comes from one of the fused slots on the stock fuse box in the cabin - will only have power when the truck is running).
    Not sure of whats the easiest way to do it with the fused only circuits.

    In theory you could split the internal buss bars so that one is always hot and the other is only hot with ignition but you'd need to put a big relay/solenoid inline with one of the buss bars thats activated by the ignition. While doable, seems like a lot of extra parts and work.
     
  8. Apr 21, 2016 at 10:29 AM
    #228
    manethon

    manethon TTAS

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    The wire is pretty bad@ss but really i think a good quality 1/0 is more than enough. Power wire and grounding wires are things i DO NOT skimp on. I have seen more than 1 truck burn down when they got tired of popping fuses and ran fuseless like most of the big audio builds do anyways. Well wires melted from the current and buy buy truck.

    I pref personally to have as little voltage drop as possible in my system
     
    alphabravo likes this.
  9. Apr 21, 2016 at 6:04 PM
    #229
    Roo1041

    Roo1041 Well-Known Member

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    Anyone that has finished their build got some of the tools needed and looking to sell them? PM me if you do, thanks!
     
  10. Apr 21, 2016 at 6:25 PM
    #230
    IronPeak

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    I got a good laugh out of that joke too!
     
  11. Apr 21, 2016 at 6:39 PM
    #231
    tacozord

    tacozord [OP] Well-Known Member

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    The internal busbars are unable to be broken/split.

    If you plan to build the Bussman following the tutorial with the relays upside-down, then this can easily be solved. Simply install two power wires to the switches from your OEM in-cab fuse block under the dash. One wire should be hot all the time and the other should be hot with ignition on. If you can't find a fuse that's always hot, then grab power from anywhere that's always hot. Finally, route these wires to your switches and use one supply wire for five switches and the other for the other five.
     
  12. Apr 21, 2016 at 9:06 PM
    #232
    manethon

    manethon TTAS

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    ? i think I'm missing something here or the hit on the head today is making me slow
     
  13. Apr 21, 2016 at 9:33 PM
    #233
    alphabravo

    alphabravo Well-Known Member

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    Maybe it is obvious, but the fuse only circuits will always be hot out of the RTMR but could be switched other places. For example my AntiDark and battery terminal voltmeter will come out of the RTMR and be switched on the ground wire by raising the hood.

    If you have additional low amperage circuits in the cab like say a dash cam then this could also be run from a fuse only circuit and switched at the unit so you can have the motion/sensor feature.
     
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  14. Apr 21, 2016 at 10:22 PM
    #234
    rob1208

    rob1208 Well-Known Member

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    The 10 relay box can be split. All of the relay slots are open on the bottom. Both busbars are connected internally to the fuse slots on either side of the relays

    DSCN2295_zpsc0c20cf7_933e9f207a81c2386192c39d0eb8a5d1d33d3a41.jpg

    DSCN2301_zpsbcbf0162_1ac601ecf67fc62cc24238407f6c7918f2c16979.jpg
     
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  15. Apr 22, 2016 at 12:14 AM
    #235
    IronPeak

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    12523856_10154069523924319_6718596544974228384_n-2.jpg

    Sorry I thought this was a photoshopped, this is a real thing?, can the hood of the truck close with it ? Do you need 886s? Maybe just one spring on the drivers side....Where do I get some for the three terminals on my battery ?
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2016
  16. Apr 22, 2016 at 1:17 AM
    #236
    themanbornwithin

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    My take on ignition vs always on:

    I have on my truck a dash cam and a lightbar. Both are on switches. Normally I'd want the dashcam to turn on and off automatically with the truck, and the light only when the truck is on. I bought an on-off-on switch and wired the accessory switches to the "supply" on the switch, an ignition power to one side and hot to the other. This allows me to run accessories as normal, but with a flick of the switch allows them to bypass ignition and run them when the truck is off.
     
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  17. Apr 22, 2016 at 7:27 AM
    #237
    alphabravo

    alphabravo Well-Known Member

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    All my gear came in yesterday :D Should get deep into the build this weekend.

    Edit:
    @themanbornwithin
    I think that 8 button SwitchPro has a setting where you can configure the accessory to turn off with the ignition as a failsafe but can also be manually turned on when the ignition is off.
     
  18. Apr 22, 2016 at 9:59 AM
    #238
    tacozord

    tacozord [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the heads up. I've never actually used the RFRM, so I was assuming it was the same as the RTMR. But looking at the picture, I still don't think you could split one of the internal busbars in half and wire one half differently than the other. Am I missing something? There's only one stud mount per busbar.
     
  19. Apr 22, 2016 at 10:45 AM
    #239
    rob1208

    rob1208 Well-Known Member

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    No problem. I ended up going with the RFRM so it was pretty familiar to me.

    Yes, there are two studs total, one per busbar. You have 20 fuses connected internally to each busbar. If you wanted to split them, I figured you could run one power cable to one busbar (with an inline fuse/circuit breaker). If you wanted the other busbar to be ignition only, you could run a power cable to that busbar with a solenoid/huge relay in line. The solenoid/relay would only power that busbar if its triggered by an ignition signal from somewhere. Since you have to wire jumpers on the back of the relay anyways, you could get creative and connect them to either busbar. The only stipulation is that you use an external ground strip.

    I ended up wiring mine similar to yours so that one busbar is connected to the battery (+) and the other one is connected to the ground (-). The main difference with my setup is that I had to run a jumper from 85 on the relays and on the ground on the accessory feed to a fuse on the ground busbar. I have to basically have 2 extra fuses inline with my ground connections. Excessive but works.

    - edit -
    looks like @InTheRough already did this
    RFRMsplit_zpsg3jdqfhq_c4085ce9878c2edc7d27ac18968709e4222c3912.jpg
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...and-some-switches.398242/page-2#post-11106572
     
  20. Apr 22, 2016 at 11:12 AM
    #240
    manethon

    manethon TTAS

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    lol not photoshopped at all.
    Picture 1 is the 183.5mm^2 vs top brand 1/0
    Picture 2 is the 1/0 vs 4/0 vs 183.5mm^2
    Picture 3 is the Flexibility of the wire.

    Im only posting this as you brought me in and had a few questions lol. I highly doubt this wire will serve anyone in the 4x4 industry unless they have a winch mounted in the front with a full battery relocation and care about having no voltage drop

    13043485_10154179563009319_2992804035889104272_n.jpg
    13062192_10154178046544319_9195296119874943227_n.jpg
    13055419_10154177995699319_5816690059623757741_n.jpg
     
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