DIY - Build and install a Bussmann RTMR Fuse/Relay Block

I have some Kester spools right now. I use it with my Delphi Weatherpack connectors and small electronic projects and it works great.

 

Thanks yotastaco!

 

Also, I avoid lead-free solder as much as possible. It's not fun to work with and just go-green garbage.

 

Cool. That should help. I didn't know non lead free solder was even available.

 

I finished the RTMR. I used the 7 terminal metripak for the switch wires. Also the accessory cable for the spots has a third wire to control the hi/low/strobe function.

 

What a great guide! I may have to try and build one instead of buying one.

 

Bussman all wired up and mounted. I just need to run the wires to the switches and drop in an 80A fuse.

 

Did you drill into the side of the truck to mount it?

 

Has anyone reused a junk car fuse box?
I have an old 98 civic waiting to be crushed.. it has a fuse box under hood. Is this worth building an aux fuse box for light bars out of this.?
Whole fuse box has plastic covers top and bottom (removed for pictures)

 

I think that's a pretty damn good idea.

 

I was hoping it would work out..now I just gotta figure the wiring out..

 

@tacozord

Does anyone know why the red Switch Power wire comes from the fuse panel and not just from the RTMR. You already have power available from the RTMR without tapping into another circuit if you just bring an additional wire.

Is it ok for the circuit to have full time power or does it need to be located on a relayed circuit like the Tail Relay which comes on/off with the Ignition and Accessory key position. That's the only reason I can think of.

 

That's pretty much the reason, to only power it when the ignition is on. You could just power it from the RTMR if you want the switches and accessories to be available anytime.

 

That makes sense. I found a relayed circuit to tap into.

Edit: Actually I don't know what I was thinking in my previous question. The power wire for the switches can't come straight from the battery otherwise the lower LED will be always on. It needs to go to the something in the Tail Relay circuit so that it shuts off with the Key Ignition/Accessory.

 

Sry, just saw this

No. I used two 6mm bolts/machine screws to connect to some existing threaded holes. I added a couple of oversize nuts as spacers since the surface is not completely flat and I added a bent plate to compensate for the slope of the body. It would help if the plate flange was a bit longer and prebent. I was afraid to bend the aluminum.

 

Its fine! Thanks I'll look into something like that. Also what screws did you use to mount the box to the mount? I need longer ones but I couldn't get the right pitch at Home Depot

 

Lowes has a better bolt selection, at least in my area.

 

I'll have to check them out too

 

Yeah, it is a very fine thread. The screws are #10-32 as per the chart in the OP. I ordered the metric version which uses M5 screws but they sent me the wrong one.

 

Awesome thanks! I'll see if I can find some of those local