DIY - Build and install a Bussmann RTMR Fuse/Relay Block

Oops!

Sorry about that.

 

subed! So much info!

 

Got it... Thanks for everyones input...
Had a senior moment, need moar...

 

x2!!
very impressed op

 

Glad you got it! I'm here to help as much as I can. I tried to include every detail I could think of, but we know that's impossible. So if something doesn't make sense or you need further clarification, I'll do the best I can to explain.

Also, I still want to add a section at the end of "Tips and Suggestions". This will include a few options and ways to change to build to save money. I look at it this way...the current tutorial outlines one way to do it. I tried to maintain as much flexibility as possible in the build. From here, you can easily change or eliminate something. For example, the Molex connectors can be easily changed to butt splices or quick disconnects. It'll certainly be cheaper, but the trade-off is less flexibilty.

 

Very well written. Good job. Just curious, how long did it take you to do that and his much money did you spend?

I'm build my own fuse box set up. Not as fancy as yours though. So far over $200 in parts, but it's fun. I'm going with a SSR versus traditional. That's the most expensive part.

 

Holy oh my god. Amazing write up! This NEEDS to be a sticky

 

Thank you.

I started back in May and I've been working on it off and on ever since. Not everyday, though. Just a little at a time. Also, I took about two months off from it during the summer. Burned out I guess. By that time, it was mostly complete with the exception of Part 6. When I started, I never planned on writing the tutorial for the installation. I figured people would figure it out on their own, because everyone's vehicle wouldn't be identical to mine. Anyhow, during the process, I realized that it was just as important as the rest. So...I had to completely rebuild the switch harness and switch panel just for the photos. I wasn't too happy about this. But, @kitsym motivated me to finish and now it's done.

For the photos, I setup in the garage


As far as price is concerned, there is more than one figure. If you're starting from scratch, then there's an investment in tools, which can be a couple hundred dollars or more depending on what you already have. With regards to parts, there's a minimum order on certain items, such as terminals and wire. So this adds a considerable cost to your initial purchase. But when it's all said and done, I can build exactly what I've outlined for about $150 without switches or bracket.

So where this pays off is if you're planning on making more than one, whether it's for yourself or a group of friends. If you know someone with tools, then all the better.

My break even point is about 3 boxes. And this would still leave many supplies left over for other projects.

Now the tough pill to swallow is the amount of time it takes. I'm not sure how anyone could make and sell these with a realistic profit. If all you're making is a bare-bones box without the connectors, busbars, and harnesses as I've outlined, then they can be whipped out in no time. But to make it as I've shown, then it's much longer. And honestly, I never timed myself. Perhaps @kitsym could weigh in, because he's been making one exactly as the tutorial details.

 

Great write up. As you stated it only becomes cost effective when buy in bulk. The minimums and shipping adds up fast..

 

This is awesome! Sub'd!

 

Sure, I'd love to chime in!

As has been stated multiple times in the tutorial and by Mike in subsequent posts, there is a large initial investment due to tools and parts.

Full disclosure - I used to install car audio professionally, so my skill level may be higher than the average person. On the other hand, my skill may not be better than yours. So... try it!

My initial overall investment, including all tools and parts, was approximately $730. Keep in mind that the tools highlighted in the tutorial are mainly for convenience. You could, theoretically, complete the entire process with minimal tools (wire stripper and crimper). I couldn't imagine how difficult some of the build would be (such as the Metripak connectors) without the proper tools. I ended up purchasing most of the tools in the tutorial. I found some alternatives at Harbor Freight mainly to test them out and advised @tacozord on my successes or failures. I will say that the heavy duty wire strippers from HF did not do well for the 10AWG GXL wire. I ended up ordering the Klein wire strippers and haven't looked back.

As far as time invested in building one... it's highly dependent on your skill level and reading comprehension. Although I have wired for a long time, I opted to follow the tutorial step by step. I'm sure my speed with wiring helped in some areas but was negligible elsewhere. I would say that I built the box in approximately 8 hours spread over a few days. I soldered all of my connections. Install is about 3 hours. I split the build into parts - the box wiring, the harnesses, and the accessory wires. Part of this time was consumed by continually referencing the tutorial to follow it step by step to assist @tacozord with bugs. I'm also one of those guys that considers a day "done" when the garage is cleaned up and my workspace is clear of clutter (also known as a "happy wife"). I needed to stop several times in order to have enough time to clean up the garage before my wife got home.

I ended up redoing some of the heat shrink as I just didn't like the way it turned out. I later learned the heatshrink issue was caused by inconsistent temperature output on my heat gun (Harbor Freight). After a few tries, I figured out how it worked and everything went smoother.

I have several coworkers that want me to build them a box next. I could potentially cut the build time in half now that I have the correct tools and the knowledge of how to build this. Depending on how much I sell the boxes to my buddies for, I will probably break even (including tools and parts) at 3 to 4. Each box (box, wires, and connectors without fuse protection, installation bracket, or the switches) costs approximately $150. This is a SMOKING deal per box... after the initial investment. Combine the time commitment and parts, this substantially well-built, water-resistant box would be very difficult to mass produce. Like @tacozord said, the time required to build each box would not make for a fun business model as you would get overwhelmed almost immediately. You could probably save some time on the build by stripping a lot of the weather-resisting parts and going with cheaper wire and/or inferior parts. This tutorial is meant to build a sturdy box that will more than likely outlast your truck.

Hope that helps and answers some questions!

I'm always available to answer questions along with @tacozord

 

My scrolling finger is fatiqued, eyes are crossed and brain has melted......surely I could wire the space shuttle now.
Hell of a write up

 

I finally read through all of the original post. Damn! I feel like I could build this thing now but there is no way mine would be as clean as yours OP. Your attention to detail is absolutely unbelievable. Not just in the product itself but even in the write up. Everything is in perfect order! Major kudos for an awesome write up for an awesome product.

 

Dude...

@Mademan925 @ffdawson Save for a rainy day in the garage? lol

 

Ill just end up getting an SPOD... Great write up though. Still neeed to redo the wiring in the vehical... its a mess

 

I almost went the SPOD route myself. In the end, I chose the Bussmann because I plan on installing more than one in my truck. So it made more sense cost wise to go this route. Furthermore, by owning the crimping tools, I could then use Metri-Pack connectors at each accessory instead of using butt splices. I like making the installs flexible.

Last, I've got some friends interested in these, so that further offsets the cost. In the end, I own the tools and it's all good.

 

Thanks. What's crazy is that the level of detail wasn't pre-planned. I thought, "oh I'll write a quick tutorial." Ha! Not the case. After getting into it, my OCD kicked in and here it is. And it doesn't help that I'm a photographer. Some of the photos I had fun with just for the sake of photography and not the tutorial.

 

After just reading through your build thread this write up comes at no surprise. Thanks again for the contribution. If I ever get the motivation together I may try and tackle this project some day.

 

The write-up is great and has a lot of valuable information.

On a side note, I have a question about powering the box.
I would like to have my Bussmann box powered on with the ignition of the truck and off when the truck is off. Would anyone happen to know a good way to do this?

I have an ML-ACR for my batteries but that is pretty expensive just to isolate the ignition and I am pretty sure it needs power to open and power to close.
I looked at the ML-RBS but that's also expensive for the same type of thing
I looked into the SL-ACR but, like the ML-ACR, it's automatic so I don't now if I will have the control to have it on with the ignition.
I looked into these two items but it seems like people were saying they get pretty hot when continually used.

$25 NEW 12V 150A CONTINUOUS DUTY SOLENOID RELAY FOR GOLF CARTS 300A IN RUSH 1114208

http://www.amazon.com/CONTINUOUS-SO...46921244&sr=1-5&keywords=starter+solenoid+amp
http://www.amazon.com/Cole-Hersee-24106-Continuous-Solenoid/dp/B001FQL43U/ref=pd_sbs_263_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=21PnUiq6kEL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=1X8ZYQVX6BFPKH0JYGSR

 

I found a neat way to do this but haven't had time to write it up. Maybe if the OP doesn't mind I'll add it here so it's a one stop shop.