DIY Front Brake Pad Change.

#213

Let me preface this by saying I'm not a mechanic but know the directions of pads so don't take offense but that brake setup in your picture doesn't look right. Your outboard pad looks like you've got it inside out. Meaning, the pad material is facing out toward the pistons and the back of the pad is against the rotor. Especially since the grooves of each pad are facing same direction instead of toward each other. I wonder if you addressed this since it's a month since it was posted or found out the hard way? Just curious since it does look like a clean setup but noticed the pad direction.

 

Wow, yes his are def wrong!! Hopefully he corrected that before driving!!

 

So regarding pushin the pistons back in.
U need to open the bleeder valve and clamp it so the old fluid will come out of the bleeder, instead of pushing back into the lines?

 

Absolutely NOT!

Compressing the pistons will just force the fluid back into the system/reservoir.

DO NOT open the bleeder! If you open the bleeder, you'll be exposing air into the system and will need to bleed the brakes.

 

Thanks for this thread, I changed my pads today and it was easy but I forgot how the spring clip went back on. That picture in the OP saved me some searching!

 

I did my brakes, but I thought the calipers were floating. (And I didnt read this post.) So I started to remove the bolts that hold the calipers together and fluid started to leak out.
My buddy told me that I may have got air in the caliper. He said that If I just loosened up the bleeder screw on the caliper until a solid stream of fluid comes out and then tighten it back up.
The brakes do seem fine though, there is no pulling to one side when I come to a stop.

I just wondered what the thoughts are on the loosening up bleeder screw to let any air air.

I thought if I opened that screw it would add air to the system.

Thanks.

 

I don't know why some people are saying you should open the bleeder valves, seems like that's just making the job harder and completely unnecessary.

As for taking your calipers off, I'm not sure what bolt you opened but nothing should have leaked out if you just unbolted the calipers?

 

In my case it was because I opened up the caliper.. There are 4 bolts on the back side of the caliper that holds it together...I didnt know about the 2 bolts that are holding the whole caliper to the back side of the rotor. ( I dont know the correct name) At the time I did it I didnt know better..

 

when i saw the title i thought "who needs a writeup to to change brake pads?"

but now that i checked it out, Good write up! Im sure it will help some people who otherwise would be lost in the sauce, maybe even save them money

so, i admit.. i was wrong lol

 

If you're leaking brake fluid....regardless of WHERE its coming from....you have allowed air to get in and you should bleed the brakes.

Opening up the bleeder screw should only be done when you're bleeding the brakes. The only time you open up that bleed screw is when the brake pedal is being pressed to the floor during the bleed process. It must be closed FIRST before allowing your pedal to return to the upright position. This allows for only outward motion of the fluid (and not allowing air to get sucked in).

 

I don't know if it's been covered because I didn't read all the pages but you can open the fluid resevoir cap before pressing the pistons back so that it won't cause any pressure. If not, the piston will keep coming back out (or the pressure will damage something although many times I forgot to open the cap and the pistons had to be held back for a long time before they settle in the "in" position. Nothing was damaged). I have never opened the bleeding screws until the end when I decided to bleed the brakes.

 

I always open the reservoir then press the piston back - I've never opened a bleeder screw to swap out pads.

 

Great DIY video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gzgh_LVAIDE

I think I am going to attempt to change the pads in a week or so without removing the caliper. I have never touched the brake system, and I have 105,000 miles on the truck.

Question 1: I should be able to reuse my shims, right?

Question 2: Another member mentioned to put anti-sieze on the pins that hold the brake pads in. Is that a good idea?

Other than that, I should be able to just take the old pads out and put the new ones in, right? Just like the video above shows....

 

As far as Question #1 - Maybe. Mine were rusted all the way through when I did mine last.

 

so.............

i changed my brakes and rotors and may or may not have torn the rubber boot surrounding one of the brake pistons......did i majorly fuck up?

 

Not majorly-it's just a dust boot but you want to replace it as soon as possible. There is a groove in the caliper and on the piston that the boot needs to seat in and a spring clip to hold it on. Don't know if you can get just one boot-might have to buy a kit.

 

So i changed my brake pads today and took the rotors in and got them turned. When installing the new pads however, I didn't use any sort of grease or lubricant on the pads, just threw em in straight out of the box. Did I mess up? What sort of issues will arise if this is bad to not do? I used Wagner Thermoquiet Ceramic Brake Pads that didn't

 

Should be fine for non-rust belt area. I've never used anything on mine and haven't had any problems (on any of my 3 sets of pads).

 

What is the brake line called that goes from the caliper to the first clip. Mine is solid line but I have seen others have flex.

 

Question: I changed my rotors and pads about a month ago and am getting alot of brown dust (possibly rust) on my wheels. Anyone have any idea what's going on?
Pads: Hawk Performance Ceramics
Rotors: Centric Premium High-Carbon