DIY Front Brake Pad Change.

Do I detect a sexual connotation in your smiley face

 

I don't know if the leak is from not reapplying pressure on the brakes following, but looks like I am clear today...I think.


thanks!

 

small hole was on the calipers when I had everything apart...definately wish I would have taken pics, but assumed normal and will keep an eye on it.

 

Changed out my pads today using the same Duralast Gold Cmax pads as the OP.

A couple quick observations:
* The Duralast pads come with shims that are pretty much permanently attached to the pads so there is no need for the OEM shims.

* The pads come with clips and "anti-rattle springs" (what the Haynes Manual Calls them) as the OP mentioned but I reused the OEM clips because they are a different design to the Duralast supplied clips. I thought they OEM clips are a better design and less likely to fall out.

* I have a Haynes Automotive Repair book that I referenced when changing out the pads and it recommends to remove 2/3 of the brake fluid prior to changing out the pads. I did this by using a "medicine dropper" and placing into a empty water bottle so I could reuse the fluid when done.

A few misc pics...





Supplied grease, clips and anti-rattle springs



Clips comparison (OEM clips the black one)



OEM shims compared to the Duralast shims. I was a little confused on which to use but found the Duralast shims are pretty much permanent.



OEM Shims (2 pieces), not sure why?



OEM pads are toast!



Part # for Durlast Gold Cmax pads.

 

How many miles did you get on the OEM pads

 

I did mine on my first gen (which is practically the same) and no you can just pull the pads out, no need to take the caliper off. remove the cap to the brake fluid under the hood to release the pressure to make it easier to pry the pads apart. make sure to pump the brakes before you drive at all because they wont fulling engage until you do.

 

72k miles

 

Thanks. I got 48 so no reason to check for another 20 I guess.

 

OK, so maybe I don't read so well but I usually jump into things with both feet. I figured since last year I did the drum brakes I wouldn't have an issue with the front since everybody says they're much easier than the rear drums. Guess I was a little over confident with my first attempt to change out the pads on the front of my 2006. If I would have read this thread a little more carefully I wouldn't have created the mess that I did.

BIG NOTE HERE FOR ANY OTHER FIRST TIMERS!!!! YOU DON'T NEED TO REMOVE THE CALIPERS TO REPLACE YOUR PADS

I have about 86,000 miles on the original front pads so I decided I'd stick with OEM pads. Picked up the new pads for about $65. Started about 4:00 on Sunday and got the driver side done in about 2 - 3 hours. Keep in mind that I'd never done it before so I was taking my time. I also didn't understand the concept of not removing the caliper. So I took off the caliper and hung it off the coil with a bungee so I didn't break the "Z" shaped hard brake line connecting from the flexible hose to the caliper.

It started to get dark so after I completed the driver side I pulled the truck into the garage to take on the passenger side. Knowing what I was in for I proceeded at a much faster pace. Suffice it to say that once I got the bolts off the caliper I pulled the caliper off the rotor. When I looked up and saw the brake fluid dripping from the bracket where the hard line connects to the flexible line at the retaining bracket I knew I was in trouble.

Parts store was already closed so I knew I wasn't going anywhere the next day. I proceeded to take a pair of needle nosed pliers wrapped in plastic wrap to seal off the broken brake line.

Monday morning I called the dealership looking for the pre-bent brake line. No dice! Keep in mind that I don't do this kind of stuff very often. On Tuesday I called the dealership and the part hadn't come in. How am I going to get to work? I don't think the boss is going to like me working from home all week. That also doesn't compare to the mad woman sitting across the dinner table from me.

I started trying to see if someone could fabricate the line for me or if I could do it myself. With a little bit of research I realized that I was going to need to get the line, connectors and a flare tool to complete the fabrication. I really didn't want to go that route. One place I called said that they wanted $56 to even look at the part before fabrication.... NO WAY! There was another shop about 20 miles away that said they might be able to do it for me but they couldn't promise me I'd get it the same day.

At this point my wife is about to kill me for taking on something I shouldn't have done in the first place. I hopped into her car and drove down to a shop. The guy there said they couldn't do it but I should go over to NAPA and pick up the part myself. I asked him about the "Z" curve and if I needed any special tools. He laughed and held up both his thumbs.

Went to NAPA, bought two lengths of brake line that already had the right connectors on them with the correct flares at the end and brought them home. Total cost was $9. I bought two since I figured I'd probably break at least one of them when bending them.

Bent that sucker the right way the first time and had it hooked up to the caliper in about 5 minutes.

Now I had been fretting about bleeding the brakes the previous night based on all the horror stories that are on the internet. Coaxed my wife out of the house to press the brake for me and had the entire system flushed and bled in about 30 minutes. I'd never done this before but it really wasn't that hard with a little common sense.

Took the truck out and bedded the pads. Great pedal feel and the thing actually stopped to my amazement.

Couple of lessons learned on this that one novice wannabe shade tree mechanic can give to others of you thinking about doing this is:

1. Read the OPs directions carefully before jumping into this.
2. This really isn't a hard job to do.... if you don't take the calipers off
3. Make sure you have a backup vehicle in case you screw something up like I did

Hope you enjoyed my little story and maybe even learned what not to do.

 

Are the OEM pads supposed to come with shims?

 

I can't really remember since it was a little bit ago. I know that I reused the existing shims that came off the original brakes and haven't had a problem.

The originals weren't damaged in any way and didn't show any significant wear.

Davis

 

Can someone make a video?

 

Great post! I would like some clarification though. Do I need to add break fluid to the master cylinder if I open the bleed valve when changing the pads? The OP didn't say anything about bleeding the system, so I am curious. Seems like you would have to replace what might leak out when compressing the pistons. Thoughts? Just looking for some clarification. Thanks!

 

You don't need to add brake fluid to the master cylinder. As the pads wear the piston will extend from the caliper further to compensate the increased distance that is created by the material on the brake pad being consumed through braking. This causes there to be more brake fluid in the lines vs in the reservoir of the master cylinder. Many folks at this point add fluid to the reservoir (Not the correct thing to do). When you compress the pistons on the caliper the fluid is pushed back into the brake system and resevoir. This is a closed system so the fluid shouldn't be leaking out of the caliper but is forced back into the lines and the master cylinder/reservoir. If you have added fluid to the system when you push the piston back into the caliper you'll overflow the reservoir.

 

sub'd

 

Thanks Outdoors! Great explanation. I do want to make sure I'm clear though. If I follow the instructions posted by the OP and open the bleed valve, compress the pistons, and brake fluid comes out, I don't need to refill my master cylinder because of the amount of fluid left in the lines? Thanks again!

 

Let me make sure I don't steer you down the wrong path. If you take any fluid out of the system, or let air into the system by opening the bleeder valve when you compress the piston then you will need to add fluid back in to replace what was lost.

I screwed up when I did my brakes so don't use my story as what to do.

If you do this you will not need to add fluid (Don't open the bleeder valve on the calipers):

1. Open the reservoir on the master cylinder.
2. Perform the pad replacement - compress the cylinders in the caliper
3. Check your fluid level in the reservoir (It should be at the correct level)
4. You're done

If at any time you open the bleeder valve you probably let air into the brake lines/calipers and will let fluid out of the system. In this instance you will need to bleed the system (remove air) which also will force you to let fluid out of the system as you bleed the lines. You will need to ensure you don't run out of brake fluid in the reservoir (during the bleeding procedure).

 

Replaced the front pads this past weekend with the instructions posted here. It was super easy! I did NOT remove the caliper or open the bleeder valve and slowly compressed the pistons. The amount of fluid in the master cylinder did indeed increase right up to the "Max" line.

FWIW, I gave a call to my local Toyota dealership service department and asked them about the procedure they followed when replacing front pads on the Tacoma. They said they NEVER open the system unless they absolutely have to. Seems they have no concerns about adversely affecting the ABS controller...

One quick question. If I did decide to remove the caliper, would I first unbolt the L-bracket that the solid brake line attaches to? There is an L-bracket where the solid brake line attaches to a flexible brake line. Seems it would be required to avoid damaging the solid line. Thoughts?