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DIY- Front Wheel Bearings

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by ST3VE, Sep 6, 2011.

  1. Nov 3, 2012 at 8:08 AM
    #61
    ST3VE

    ST3VE [OP] IG: @fishsohard

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    Thanks man. I recorded a few other how-to videos too... Just havent put them together yet.
     
  2. Nov 3, 2012 at 4:13 PM
    #62
    libagui

    libagui Well-Known Member

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    Does someone knows Why toyota has a different part number for Tacoma wheel bearing 43570-04010, and all other SUV, runner and others 43570-60010. ?
     
  3. Nov 6, 2012 at 6:46 PM
    #63
    Darryl

    Darryl Member

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    what's going on exactly between 3:13 thru 4:36? Is it possible to order the hub and bearings all together so it's just bolt off... bolt on?

    I'm pretty sure my right front is needing replacement. I can hear a faint d-d-d-d-d-d-d-d at high speed and it goes away only when I make slight left bend on the highway. Is this truck in the vid a 4x4? I hope so because that's what I have.

    It's all in fast forward. Is it possible for you to email me the entire video in normal speed if you can, so I can hear what ur saying and all that?

    edit:
    all this info is awesome by the way. can't afford the stealership. ST3VE ur the man.
     
  4. Nov 6, 2012 at 7:00 PM
    #64
    ST3VE

    ST3VE [OP] IG: @fishsohard

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    The truck is a 4x4. And what you are seeing that's fast forward is the hub assembly getting pressed out and the new one back in. You can buy a whole assembly but I chose to get just the bearings because I had the means to get it changed myself.
     
  5. Nov 8, 2012 at 9:43 AM
    #65
    cdoucet

    cdoucet Member

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    Does anyone know what the size of the cotter pin is on the axle?
     
  6. Nov 8, 2012 at 2:36 PM
    #66
    Darryl

    Darryl Member

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    at 1:49 you try pull the brake disc off but it doesn't come off. then you start fidgeting with your airgun and then it finally comes off. What are you doing there? do I need a special bit to get inside those 2 holes on the outside face of the brake disc?
     
  7. Nov 8, 2012 at 2:44 PM
    #67
    ST3VE

    ST3VE [OP] IG: @fishsohard

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    Yes. I forget the size of the stud. But all you do is screw it into the hole and it will free up the disk.

    I am sure someone can chime in that knows the size of the stud you need.
     
  8. Nov 8, 2012 at 4:09 PM
    #68
    Darryl

    Darryl Member

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    at 2:27, there's a round part that is sitting on the blue press table, while you're pressing out the hub from the bearing... does that have anything to do with what we're doing here? And what is that pipe and stack of rings that is pressing the hub out of the bearing? is that just for convenience so you can keep the press high so you can see what you're doing?

    at 3:39, after you removed the o-ring seal from the inside of the bearing, you took the bearing to the vice and then chisled off the outside ring.... is this normal to have to take off that ring an reuse it? After you hammered it onto your new bearing, it looks like you dented the edges and checked the damage with your thumb - is that lil bit of damage ok?

    at 4:07 after that ring goes flying off, there is what looks like some inner rings or something that almost fall out.... is that important, can you explain a bit more of what's going on here during the pressing and chiseling and how to press the new bearing (4 bolt square part) back onto the re-used hub (6 bolts round part) sorry for my terminology; correct me wherever you can.

    And thanks for your patience, i know I've already asked a lot of questions. ur a big help!
     
  9. Nov 8, 2012 at 4:32 PM
    #69
    Darryl

    Darryl Member

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    [​IMG]

    regarding 2:27. this is what I'm talking about. what is that? thx again
     
  10. Nov 8, 2012 at 4:44 PM
    #70
    Darryl

    Darryl Member

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  11. Nov 8, 2012 at 4:47 PM
    #71
    ST3VE

    ST3VE [OP] IG: @fishsohard

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    :thumbsup:
     
  12. Nov 8, 2012 at 4:50 PM
    #72
    ST3VE

    ST3VE [OP] IG: @fishsohard

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  13. Nov 8, 2012 at 5:57 PM
    #73
    92LandCruiser

    92LandCruiser Well-Known Member

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    Use the press, that'd be a total PITA.

    You basically support the bearing with some notched plates and press the hub out. You can re-use the o-ring if it looks normal -- just use some sense. I'm not sure why St3ve removed the seal from the old bearing, you should get a new one and install it on your new bearing assy. I don't want to harp on the guy but personally I wouldn't and didn't install my seals that way. I used a brass drift and slowly and carefully went around the steel lip rather than hitting the seal face with a rubber deadblow (you can see where it folds over and deforms). You'll have to take your hub, notch the inner race still seated on it, smack it with a chisel until it breaks and then you can pull it off, I don't think I saw that anywhere. Clean up the face of the hub where the seal rides with some emery cloth or whatever and wipe it clean (also important). You can use a little anti seize on the hub when you press it back in, it'll prevent galling and make it easier to press in and out but without concern of it falling off. When pressing, go slow, rotate it.
     
  14. Nov 8, 2012 at 6:08 PM
    #74
    92LandCruiser

    92LandCruiser Well-Known Member

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    I believe m8 x 1.25
     
  15. Nov 8, 2012 at 6:15 PM
    #75
    92LandCruiser

    92LandCruiser Well-Known Member

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    Just for reference.
     
  16. Nov 8, 2012 at 9:44 PM
    #76
    Darryl

    Darryl Member

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    ST3VE thanks for answering and clarifying all that. u da man! :cool:


    Thx for your help too Max. U da man also!
     
  17. Nov 8, 2012 at 10:07 PM
    #77
    92LandCruiser

    92LandCruiser Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    Basically a brass punch or brass bar, soft so it won't damage the metal lip, you definitely don't want to damage the (nitrile) seal part though.

    As far as cutting off the inner race you'll need to make a diagonal cut on the bearing race that doesn't come off the hub with the rest of the bearing. Just notch it, don't cut into the hub, and then take a chisel and hammer on it. It'll crack and you can slide it off.

    I can't find any pictures of front bearings but here is from my rear bearing. Basically the same thing. You just have to change the angle of the cut.

    photobucket-2668-1351749503364_bd492661b8ae61f5946558ef156f3bb778022cc4.jpg
    photobucket-2675-1351749506916_82da05d3a65cdc2174d4a83187fc851bbb22d80f.jpg
     
  18. Nov 9, 2012 at 5:23 AM
    #78
    NwiTACO

    NwiTACO Big tars, little/no bed.

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    I have one hub left with a bearing on it for the next guy that needs to do a wheel bearing...
     
  19. Nov 13, 2012 at 4:47 AM
    #79
    cdoucet

    cdoucet Member

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    SO I'm a dumb ass. and My inexperience shined like a bright star on my replacement of the wheel bearing.

    So I had everything pressed together and good to go. I then put the outer seal on the side of the bearing that goes into the axel and started tightening the bolts. Once this was all done the axel wouldn't come all the way through when tightening up the axel nut. I was able to get the cotter pin through but not the axel nut locking plate that goes over top.

    My questions are what problems can this cause?
    How do I replace this outer seal? I'm assuming I need to take the steering knuckle off to put the seal on the other side (along with getting the seals off and out in the first place.)
    is there a technical manual/page for this that someone can provide?

    I took it to the shop to have them do it but they wanted to replace everything. Even the new hub assembly/bearing that I put in because there is 'play'. Which is reasonable but they will not replace the outer seal to see if it fixes the 'play' :mad:

    While this shit sux balls I've at least gained a lot of experience and what to do/not to do!

    but now I need to get my mistake fixed!
     
  20. Nov 13, 2012 at 5:00 AM
    #80
    BlueT

    BlueT Well-Known Member

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    It sounds more like you pressed things wrong. Make sure cv nut is at spec. Drive around a little and try tightening again.
     

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