DIY: Full Flush for Automatic Transmission

I just picked up 4 qts and some of the metal crush washers. Cost about $45 after tax.

One of the service techs said he always lets it sit about an hour to drain. Then 4 qt is just enough refill.

I think general labor at a dealer here is $99/hr so figure at least 1.5 hr labor plus "shop fees" plus fluid/washers and that $200 quote seems about right.

 

I did a full flush today. Not at all difficult. When I did the fluid check, a lot more fluid came out then I expected (over 2 qts.). I thought I put it a little more then I took out, but didn't think it was that much. I was really confused (scared I messed it up). The truck seems to run fine and shifts well.

I initially got the idea to do the flush because I recently had a chirpping in the front end appear. Also, when I get about 1500-2200 RPMs (and ~40mph) there is a humming, but only when I give it gas. Once I pull back on the pedal, it'll go away until I give it more gas.

So far I've changed the plugs and serpentine belt. My next item on the check list was the ATF flush. I'm not sure what to do next. The hum and chirpping is still there.

BTW, I picked up the Valvoline Max Life ATF for $13.50/ gallon at AutoZone.

 

I have a sound similar to that also, I checked the front wheel bearings for play but they were good, I think they they may be getting dry of grease and making some noise being the original ones with 102K miles. I'll be changing my ATF this spring with Red Line D6 fluid and replace both wheel bearings also.

 

Could be the needle bearing in the front diff, drivers' side, if you all have 4WD. Mine appeared after I installed the 5100 shocks set at 0.85" lift in the front (for a 2005 that is leveling only). Had to replace the needle bearing with the East Coast Gear Supply bushing, and it went away.

Easy way to check, is to see how much play is on the drivers' side half shaft. Get under the front end, reach up and push on the CV assembly right where it comes out of the front diff (not the booted CV, but the one that lets the axle extend in/out for suspension travel). If it feels like it moves quite a bit, there's too much play in that bearing.

 

Hey thanks, I'll check mine as soon as it warms up a little.

 

Im not sure if this helps but ive had a vibration issue with my truck in the engine compartment on the passanger side at those rpms AND while in reverse. People told me my brake pump and/or oil pump was going out. I found it hard to believe so i duplicated the sound in neutral/reverse and found out it was the air intake tube that connects just behind the wiper fluid reservoir. There's some foam padding around the tube to prevent it from vibrating with the metal. It was worn and i replaced it. Never herd the noise again. Might see if that could be your noise you hear. Hope the info helps.

 

My fluid was a dark dark redish color. 2007 v6 with at the time i think 95k miles. To be honest the whole process was pretty fairly simple. I found the hardest part was when you start the truck up to drain X amount into a jug then shut it off to prevent the pump from drying out. Thats really the only part that freaked me out. Other then that it was kinda fun honestly. Bit messy but fun. If you want an easy way my buddy just drains out his ATF from the pan every oil change and just adds a fresh 3-4 quarts and does the At temp mode check. Doesnt remove all the old stuff but is constantly adding fresh fluid.

 

I have a PreRunner, so I'm not sure. I'm going to jack it up later this week to see if there in any play or if the bearing seem bad.

 

Somebody has made a beer bong before. haha you could throw a shutoff valve in too for good measure.

 

Actually, my 1st for both- but that's funny. shutoff valve is a great idea.

 

I'm going to be dropping my pan shortly as well (and do the fluid change...BTW OP excellent write-up) and I was wondering if you changed out the filter while you had the pan off? I'm getting an IPT modified valve body done and this was one of their suggestions while the pan was off. Also, thanks for the torque specs on the pan, I was having a hard time finding those specs.

Thanks,

 

I changed my filter out when I dropped the pan and dissected the factory filter. Based on what I saw in mine, if you drop the pan before 40K and do a complete fluid replacement the new filter should last the life of the vehicle. Lots of grey slime from clutch break-in wear and ferrous stuff on the magnets as well. I like that valve body upgrade but just can't swing it right now. Please post back after the install with how your truck responds.

 

I went to the Toyota dealership today and picked up 14 quarts of ATF fluid and I asked if I could buy the transmission filter and gasket. The parts guy said that they didnt stock a filter or gasket and went and got one of the technicians. The tech told me that Tacomas have a metal screen filter to just remove it from the trans and flush the filter with brake cleaner and reuse. Also, he said toyota doesnt use a gasket they use FIPG toyota sealant (red) 00295-1281. It was $20, but I went ahead and picked up a tube anyways. I looked at the trans and my 06 does have dried red sealeant around the trans pan from the factory.

Does anybody have pictures of the oil cooler line that you disconnect? I want to make sure I disconnect the right line.

 

How much did you pay for the 14qts? I'm pretty sure there are labeled pictures of all steps in the OP.

 

I asked for a discount and they gave me 10% off. They were originally $9.12 per quart and I got 14 for $115.

The pics in the OP have not been working for the last few weeks. Nothing else I will snap a pic and have you guys confirm I've got the correct line.

 

They all work for me.

 

Thats weird... I'll have to try another computer our browser. All other photos have been fine on this forum so far. Thanks for letting me know though.

UPDATE: I used my phone and the pictures are working fine. My work computer is blocking them. Sweet now I got everything I need.

 

I just called my dealer and they said $127.12 and I asked about a discount and they said they could do %15, $108.05 = 7.718/QUOTE, before tax. That beats what I found on ebay $8.75/qt for 12.

 

Just curious do you have the V6 4X4? The reason I ask is John from IPT said it definitely does use a gasket and he includes it with the modified valve job.

Thanks,

 

Interesting... Yes i have the V6 4x4. Mine is an 06 what year is your truck? I looked at the transmission pan and you can see red FIPG sealent that has dried around the pan where it bolts together. I've read that you should NOT use both gasket and sealant and that you should only use one or the other.

Anybody else dropped the pan on the transmission? Did you have a gasket or sealant?