DIY: Full Flush for Automatic Transmission

And about $115 more

 

Yep, mine used to feel like a small car bumped into my rear bumper sometimes and after a full flush and filter change I don't really notice it anymore.

 

if u did drivers side u disconnected the rubber hose to steel line , and just ran that out into a catch pan? instead of connected 3/8 hose to the steel line at passeners side to flush fluid into catch pan?

 

Sure. Mityvac comes with a valve, nice graduated scale, quick connect hose, and can be paired with Toyota specific adapter that attaches to the tranny fill hole. Worth me for me, may not be worth for you.

 

I used these lines: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...atic-transmission.68462/page-19#post-10615066

 

all seem to be safe ways. just wanted to say, flushed mine at 70,000. but after first drain i took off the pan to replace the gasket. i swear there was about 1/2" to 1" of sludge on the bottom of the pan. im more than positive a flush alone will not get this out. Got allllll that out,cleaned magnets, now, never knew my truck could be so smoooooooth when shifting.

 

For all of you that are dropping the pan and replacing the screen filter, what are you torquing the 20 or so drain pan bolts to and what about the bolts that secure the filter. I know there’s a couple torque spec postings floating around on TW, but couldn't find a listing for these bolts. I’ve done tranny services on Toyota’s before and usually just used a 1/4 inch ratchet to gently tighten the 10mm bolts to “feel”.

 

How long ago after your flush did you do your first drain/drop the pan? Do you tow or do anything stressful on the transmission?

 

yes just gently tighten when bolting pan back.. pan was not leakin i just figured since doin a full system flush i would do the gasket. no need to replace the filter cuz its a metal screen. i barely put any torque into gettin the pan bolts off, so i just tightened them back lightly to feel(not tight at all), i mean they were so easy to remove i surprised there werent any leaks. im second owner and im sure no one tampered with doing this before me so thats how lightly tightened the factory does them..i got truck at 40,0000 miles. as i said no leaks under pan but i just did the gasket so wont have to worry about it in near future..
i barely drive my truck as i have a car as daily.. i have went off road several times in the mud but no weekends in the mud every weekend or anything like that.. no daily off roading , i have towed small jon boat now and then to go fishing but like i said i barely drive it and the jon boat is only a 12 footer so thats not real heavy. thats why i mentioned this sludge build up on bottom of the pan. i was literally surprised. and truck looked damn near new when i bought it so previous owner didnt do any heavy offroading either.
i couldnt tell any bad gear shifts or anything, it just got wayyy smoother since the flush. so really i wouldnt say oh my god, i need to do a flush. i just knew it was time.

 

1” inch of sludge? That’s a lot of sludge. How did you get it out? A spoon or something?

 

You should clean it

 

Hey! So my truck is at 155k km and I'm thinking if it's a good idea to do a full flush or not (judging by that the spark plugs have never been changed, I can't imagine the atf was changed..), read some threads that it's not a good idea, my truck seems to have had a relatively easy life so I'm leaning towards doing the flush, It's winter now so I will be doing it at roughly 158k km. So should I do the flush? Any suggestions for atf? Or just go with toyota's atf ?

 

of course i cleaned it. i wouldnt un bolt it and not get that out. no way i would go that far and not get all that out. ok mayyybe not a full inch, but 1/4 " is TOOOO MUCH. high pressure hose got it all out. and or a plastic scraper/puddy knife.
def would flush at 155k even with easy driving.

 

Has anyone here used Starfire full synthetic ATF? I work for a Lucas/Starfire distributor and can get it pretty cheap.

Do I need to replace the gasket and filter if I drop the pan?

2010 TRD OR 4x4 with just over 150k miles. Not sure if the tranny has ever been flushed.

 

Thanks

 

I’m using the Dex 6 in my Chevy’s. It says it’s “suitable for use in WS applications”. The Full synthetic that you are referencing is this one I assume, it’s a higher viscosity more like a Dexron III/Mercon V. Either one would/should probably work fine, but a low viscosity fluid like the Dexron VI is going to be closer to the viscosity of WS. For Toyota Type IV ATF I would use the multi-vehicle full synthetic if it were me.

 

For all of you with the tow package, have you instead pulled the lines off of the transmission fluid cooler that’s in front of the radiator? Seems like it would be easier to get to.

if you’re using this method which line are you pulling to drain the fluid (The line that attaches to the cooler closer to the drivers side or the line that connects to the cooler closer to the passenger side?)

 

@Micbt25 - the ATF line from the ATF cooler goes to the radiator. So, if you pull the line from the cooler, you will be leaving old ATF in the radiator ATF reservoir that will not get flushed out.

 

gotch, I’ll just pull the return/outlet line in back of the radiator as outlined in the instructions.

thanks!