1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

DIY grill/lights + wiring details

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by savoy, May 30, 2011.

  1. May 30, 2011 at 4:07 PM
    #1
    savoy

    savoy [OP] tacoma 4 life

    Joined:
    Mar 5, 2009
    Member:
    #14361
    Messages:
    106
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Josh
    Fort mcmurray, Alberta
    Vehicle:
    06 Tacoma double cab black
    Pro comp 6" lift, afe intake, flowmaster duel exhaust, dick cepek 35" mt's, and black XD rims
    Hello all
    allow me to first say i don't intend to steal anyones thunder sort of speak all credit goes to forum members : rhoppas(for the wiring) and lifesaflaw123(for satoshi)

    I searched for a thread showing both the wiring and grill mod and had somewhat a of a hard time. so here it is to the best of my ability

    for the satoshi you will need:

    1- bondo body fill can
    1- fiberglass repair kit
    1- roll painters tape
    1- can of spray primer
    1- can of dupli colour spray paint ( i used black however there are tones of colours to choose from)

    also:

    a pair of scissors (to cut your fiberglass)
    1 to 2 sheets of 80 grit sand paper
    1 to 2 sheets of 120 grit sand paper
    a dremel tool with a cut off wheel( see pic) and a sanding wheel (see pic)
    jig saw with a fine tooth blade (this will make cutting the grill out so much easier)
    a 10mm socket
    and a flat head screwdriver

    IMG_0620.jpg

    to start remove the grill via the 10mm socket (see pic) also remove plastic rivots via flathead screw driver
    IMG_0621.jpg
    IMG_0622.jpg

    now that you have the grill removed you can begin cutting away the center
    before you cut i would recommend taping the outside of the grill I didnt but it would be a better choice to protect your paint
    pics below show what i used for dremel wheel and saw blade
    IMG_0633.jpg

    IMG_0632.jpg
    IMG_0631.jpg

    once you get the largest part of the grill cut away take the dremel sanding wheel and skim away the access bits don't worry about stretching the surface a bit there will be more then enough body fill to touch up the sanded spots
    IMG_0639.jpg

    IMG_0640.jpg

    now the not so fun part begins you'll need beer and patients for this
    IMG_0641.jpg

    now that you have the center out and the sanding done its time to fiberglass
    the box will dictate the amounts however i used half the big tube of resin with half the little tube of hardener NOTE where gloves and before you mix..cut out the fiber give yourself about 1 1/2" to 2 inches of excess fiber to stick around the inside of the grill ( pic will make more sense ) also tape the oppsite side of the grill with painters tape to keep the fiberglass from sagging in when you apply it ( see pic)
    IMG_0642.jpg
    IMG_0643.jpg

    the kit comes with a tray mix it in there i found it easier to fold the fiberglass in a U shape and dip the fiber strip in (soak the hole piece) kit also came with a wooden tongue depressor used that to wipe away the excess resin ..you want the fiber to be fully soaked but not dripping resin

    it takes about 60 to 90min to fully harden. this is a good time to relocate the horns its pretty straight forward (see pics) you'll need a 12mm socket
    remove the bolts and unclip the horns. you'll also need to unclip the temp sensor
    IMG_0624.jpg
    IMG_0625.jpg
    IMG_0627.jpg
    IMG_0626.jpg

    there are two unused screw holes behind the battery the original horns bolt fit perfectly. I adjusted the screw on back of one of the horns so i could have both horns attached in one bolt hole. (leaving the other hole open for the lights ground wire)
    IMG_0629.jpg
    horns in place
    IMG_0630.jpg

    once the fiberglass has hardened you'll want to cut it square with the rest to the grill
    IMG_0645.jpg

    now on to body fill. the can says to mix a golf ball size of the fill with a 1 1/4" strip of hardener. the colour will be kinda of a light salmon pink ( for lack of better description) fill in all sanded areas. i used the scraper that came with the fiberglass kit. you wanna press the body fill in with a little force but not to hard don't crack the fiberglass.
    IMG_0646.jpg

    and back to sanding this part takes a while be patient. start with 80grit then 120grit i stop at 120 but you could use a higher grit ..i just applyed more primer does the trick
    IMG_0647.jpg

    once all the sandings done hang the grill up from the two holes that attach it to the grill and prime the hell out of it ...i did about 6 coats allows 20/25min or 2 beer between coats(it should be dry to the touch)
    IMG_0649.jpg
    once your satisfied with the primer give the grill 4 or 5 coats of paint and your done
     
  2. May 30, 2011 at 4:13 PM
    #2
    907taco

    907taco Alaskan Assassin

    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2010
    Member:
    #34091
    Messages:
    1,358
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Bobby
    Alaska
    Vehicle:
    2010 BlackSandPearl 4x4
    ultimate lift kit ( toytec ) ome dakar leaf pack , w/ extended length billies, LR uca's, Pro comp 7089s, KM2's 285 70 17, neoprene seat covers, weather techs, CBI sliders w/kickout, URD ss, cab mount chop, VHT night shade tint>tails,3rd B-light. Debadged. Grillecraft grille, rear diff breather mod. CBI Moab front bumper, warn M8000 winch, HID kragens 7", Hella's micro fogs. retrofit headlights HIDS, LED solutions maps/license! 886 back up light mod,
    you should change your title, does not match your write up. i will add you did a great write up on the satoshi grille..
     
  3. May 30, 2011 at 4:14 PM
    #3
    rcfreak201

    rcfreak201 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2010
    Member:
    #40660
    Messages:
    6,074
    Gender:
    Male
    how did you do the lights? are you still editing the first post because i dont see any thing on lights, maybe i missed it in the pics though
     
  4. May 30, 2011 at 4:17 PM
    #4
    907taco

    907taco Alaskan Assassin

    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2010
    Member:
    #34091
    Messages:
    1,358
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Bobby
    Alaska
    Vehicle:
    2010 BlackSandPearl 4x4
    ultimate lift kit ( toytec ) ome dakar leaf pack , w/ extended length billies, LR uca's, Pro comp 7089s, KM2's 285 70 17, neoprene seat covers, weather techs, CBI sliders w/kickout, URD ss, cab mount chop, VHT night shade tint>tails,3rd B-light. Debadged. Grillecraft grille, rear diff breather mod. CBI Moab front bumper, warn M8000 winch, HID kragens 7", Hella's micro fogs. retrofit headlights HIDS, LED solutions maps/license! 886 back up light mod,
    i am assuming your finishing your write up....patiently waiting the write up on lights as i am about to start my fog and driving lights wiring install...:D
     
  5. May 30, 2011 at 6:37 PM
    #5
    savoy

    savoy [OP] tacoma 4 life

    Joined:
    Mar 5, 2009
    Member:
    #14361
    Messages:
    106
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Josh
    Fort mcmurray, Alberta
    Vehicle:
    06 Tacoma double cab black
    Pro comp 6" lift, afe intake, flowmaster duel exhaust, dick cepek 35" mt's, and black XD rims
    On to the wiring NOTE i did my lights/ wiring for two 100w lamps anything higher will require thicker gauge wire and inline fuse (see rhoppas write up for more info regarding higher watt lights) : http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/6525-diy-wiring-after-market-lights.html

    things you will need:

    1- roll of 14gauge wire
    1- roll of 18gauge wire
    1- small box 14gauge female spade connectors
    1- small box 18gauge female spade connectors
    1- small box of crimp ring connectors 14gauge (go with ones that have about 1/4" inside diameter so the bolts will fit through them )

    1- small box male crimp on connectors (14gauge)
    1- 20amp automotive inline fuse
    1- automotive relay 12vDC
    1- mini fuse tap (HHH mini add-a-line see pic)
    1- two position toggle switch (must have 3 male connectors)
    1- length of wire lump about 6' (black plastic channel to hold wires neatly in place)
    1- bag of cable ties (use the blacks ones they seems to be more resistant to weathering then the white ones)

    also you'll need
    a pair of electrical wire cutters/ crimpers
    electrical tape

    below are pics of the supplys needed
    IMG_0651.jpg

    heres the 30 amp automotive inline fuse they didnt have a 20amp one however 30amp works fine just use a 20amp fuse
    IMG_0670.jpg

    forgot to take pics of the following so i stole these from the net to help give a
    better idea of with i you'll need

    ring connectors :
    ring connector .jpg

    mini fuse tap:
    mini fuse tape .jpg

    wire loom:
    wire loom .jpg

    Now to start wiring !!!

    first thing i did was mount the relay. i used to bolt that holds the fuse box in place to mount the relay. however the relay mounting brackets hole was just a little to small to put the bolt through. i drilled the hole bigger ( it you don't have the tools to do this locate the relay wherever you can fit it...the bolt hole next to the relocated horns maybe )
    IMG_0652.jpg

    heres where to mount relay..don't tighten the bolt all the way leave it lose enough to swing it when it comes time to connect the female spades
    IMG_0668.jpg

    now you want to mount your toggle switch..this is easy just remove you little insurance holder drawer and pop out a blank
    IMG_0656.jpg

    drill out a hole center of the blank. i used a drill bit that was slightly smaller then the toggle to give a nice tight fit my toggle was about 3/8th's of a inch in diameter
    IMG_0657.jpg

    my toggle was just a little to big to fit in the blank so i had to cut the sides out with a carpet knife to get a good fit (be careful don't cut yourself like i did lol)
    IMG_0663.jpg

    now you need a length of 18gauge wire about 8-10 inches to make a ground to your toggle i used this bolt under the dash its next to my clutch sorry the pic came out dark ...its the bolt to the left of the red/blue wires in the pic (it will be the only bolt directly under the fuses that connects to bare metal)
    connect a spade connectors to one end of the 18 gauge wire and connect a ring connector to the other end...then bolt the ring in place and plug the spade into your toggle
    IMG_0662.jpg

    now comes the pain in the ass part. you need to run a length of 18gauge about a fathom(one full arms length or about 5-6' long) through the fire wall into the engine compartment...use a coat hanger..straighten it out and fold over a hook shape in one end ...poke a hole in the rubber gasket that the main wires run through its near the petals
    heres the hanger :
    IMG_0667.jpg
    heres the gasket sorry the pics dark
    IMG_0665.jpg

    once you get the wire through connect spade connectors to each end of the wire one goes to the toggle (doesn't matter which of the connections you put it on) the other end connects on the relay to the post marked #86

    heres the under side of the relay:
    Relay Connections.gif

    at the toggle :
    IMG_0666.jpg

    you can see here the connection on the relay (i taped every crimp connector just to be safe)


    next you want to cut a length of 14gauge (about 4" long) to make a ground with the relay i connected my ground to the main battery ground directly next to the relay connect a spade to one end and a ring to the other and connect the spade to post #85 on the relay (pic above shows where ring connector goes the bolts already removed)

    next you will cut two short lengths of 14gauge to connect the the inline fuse to the battery and the relay.. here you will use the male and female spades to piece it all together with a ring connector at one end to connect to the battery
    (connect the ring end to the positive post on the battery ) connect the opposite end to post #30 on the relay
    IMG_0671.jpg
    IMG_0697.jpg

    now cut 2 lengths of 14gauge about 3-4' long these will route to your lamps
    one will be a ground (connect to the same place you grounded the relay in the pic its the wire with the blue ring connector) solder the lamp ends together and use a male connection
    IMG_0672.jpg

    the other will connect to the black wires on your lights(your lights may not have a black wire however the ground should be marked)to the relay at post #87 (NOT 87A) i soldered the lamps wires then added a female spade
    i used female on the black wires for the lamps and male on the the ground this way i could mix it up when connection to the relay and ground post (different coloured wires would have worked to lol) and the solder it just to ensure a good solid connection as these connections will see the most weather
    IMG_0684.jpg

    the last bit of wiring is in the dash. you will now cut a length of 14gauge (5-6") connect one end to your mini fuse tap and the other end gets a spade and connect to the last post on your toggle the fuse tap takes a 5amp fuse
    there is a empty slot on your fuse panel under the dash its the second row second fuse slot....i referenced rhoppas wiring write up, in it he says you can use a volt meter to find a fuse slot that will turn off the lights when the trucks is off ...i simply used the slot he refers it works, if you have to use a different slot use the link at the top to see how to find another fuse
    IMG_0700.jpg

    and your done

    now for the bits i left out (grill just arrived today)

    the grill and light bar!!!!!!
    i bought a grill and light bar from Black Diamond FAB (aka timsxr)

    let me say this theses grills are sick
    my package came very fast and well wrapped
    and the price was right forsure

    so here they are
    IMG_0673.jpg
    you'll have to drill some pilot holes for the grill to connect to the main grill body ...i test fit the grill on the grill body then marked where to drill..
    drill then screw it all together
    IMG_0675.jpg
    IMG_0676.jpg
    IMG_0677.jpg
    IMG_0679.jpg
    the light bar fits like a charm simply remove to bolts and put the two provided ones in ...and your done so easy
    IMG_0680.jpg
    IMG_0681.jpg

    heres the job all done
    IMG_0688.jpg
    IMG_0693.jpg
    IMG_0694.jpg
    hope this helps anyone wanting to do these mods it took me about 8 hours in total most of the time was spent sanding and taking pictures..

    I highly recommend Black Diamond FAB
    no one in my town has a grill and light bar like these
    looks awesome and fits perfect

    cheers
    SAVOY
     
  6. May 30, 2011 at 6:44 PM
    #6
    fubar718

    fubar718 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2010
    Member:
    #38458
    Messages:
    181
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jose
    NJ
    Vehicle:
    2010 double cab, TRD offroad
    great wright up and amazing job....looks great.
     
  7. May 30, 2011 at 6:45 PM
    #7
    savoy

    savoy [OP] tacoma 4 life

    Joined:
    Mar 5, 2009
    Member:
    #14361
    Messages:
    106
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Josh
    Fort mcmurray, Alberta
    Vehicle:
    06 Tacoma double cab black
    Pro comp 6" lift, afe intake, flowmaster duel exhaust, dick cepek 35" mt's, and black XD rims
    shit don't know why all the attachments didnt load sorry guys ill try and fix
     
  8. May 30, 2011 at 7:14 PM
    #8
    fullstream

    fullstream Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2011
    Member:
    #51570
    Messages:
    72
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    steve
    Covington, Tn (between 2 corn fields)
    Vehicle:
    2010 trd offroad
    Tinted windows, tonneau, 3" procomp lift, vent visor's, bull bar, step bars, interior & exterior led's,anytime fog light mod, 35 w hid's 6000k fog, 3 Adv 60's w/ dimmer, color matched grill w/ satoshi, tinted taillights & fog lights, BHLM with mini h1's 35w 5000k, 2 hella 700's w/55 watt HID's, BAMF lightbar
    Great write up. I see a satoshi in my future and this will help.:D
     
  9. May 30, 2011 at 8:10 PM
    #9
    timsxr

    timsxr Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2010
    Member:
    #46529
    Messages:
    1,155
    Gender:
    Male
    portland
    Looks great man!! thank you!!
     
  10. May 30, 2011 at 10:19 PM
    #10
    savoy

    savoy [OP] tacoma 4 life

    Joined:
    Mar 5, 2009
    Member:
    #14361
    Messages:
    106
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Josh
    Fort mcmurray, Alberta
    Vehicle:
    06 Tacoma double cab black
    Pro comp 6" lift, afe intake, flowmaster duel exhaust, dick cepek 35" mt's, and black XD rims
    it stays light out until 1130 up north in the summer
    finally got dark ....until i turned on the light lol

    IMG_0203.jpg
     
  11. May 30, 2011 at 10:20 PM
    #11
    rcfreak201

    rcfreak201 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2010
    Member:
    #40660
    Messages:
    6,074
    Gender:
    Male
    freakin sweet! your truck is so clean man i love it!
     
  12. May 30, 2011 at 10:35 PM
    #12
    savoy

    savoy [OP] tacoma 4 life

    Joined:
    Mar 5, 2009
    Member:
    #14361
    Messages:
    106
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Josh
    Fort mcmurray, Alberta
    Vehicle:
    06 Tacoma double cab black
    Pro comp 6" lift, afe intake, flowmaster duel exhaust, dick cepek 35" mt's, and black XD rims
    thanks man ...i baby it
     
  13. Jul 14, 2011 at 12:16 AM
    #13
    adamw

    adamw Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2011
    Member:
    #49891
    Messages:
    183
    Gender:
    Male
    sunnyvale, CA
    Vehicle:
    06 prerunner SR5 6spd
    How big are your lights behind the grille?
     
To Top