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DIY: Installing JSEnclosure Speaker Rings & Door Removal

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by hookedontronics, Jul 1, 2011.

  1. Jul 1, 2011 at 7:00 AM
    #1
    hookedontronics

    hookedontronics [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Due to some recent questions I figured I would do a quick little write up for installing my speaker rings. Here is a pair of 6.5" front speaker rings I installed in a co-workers 2010 Tacoma yesterday. They are the basic MDF rings I sell and he coated them with some polyurethane to protect against any moisture. Total install time for these rings and your new speakers is under an hour, and a very simple process that anyone can manage.

    Hardware required for install (qty dependent on how many rings and location):
    -1 1/4" long 1/4" diameter bolts (8 for front , 6 for rear rings)
    -1/4" lock-nuts (8 for front, 6 for rear)
    -washers, 1 for the head and nut side of each bolt (16 for front, 12 for rear)

    Tools:
    -Philips head screwdriver
    -10mm wrench or socket and wratchet
    -Whatever hardware is necessary for the bolts/nuts you picked up
    -If you have a plastic dash removal tool they work great, if not you can use your fingers for most of this or a flathead screwdriver(just be careful with the screwdriver)

    Installation:
    -Remove your door panel-

    -Start with the sail at the top of your door. This piece pulls straight off.
    [​IMG]

    -Once you remove the sail grab the white plastic clips that will be left in the door and re-attach them to the sail. This will make it easy when the time comes to put this piece back on.
    [​IMG]

    -Next take your screwdriver and push in on the center of the black clip that is located right in front of the sail panel. Once you pop the center in you can easily pull this pop rivet out of the door.
    [​IMG]

    -There are (2) phillips head screws that will need to be removed next. One is located in the doors pull handle and the other is located in the doors grip handle. Pop the covers with a flathead or plastic prybar and remove the screws.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    -Now take your flathead or plastic prybar and slide it in the front of your door controls. The front will pop up and just slide the controls slightly forward to remove.
    [​IMG]

    -Unclip the controls
    [​IMG]

    -Now for the final step in your door panel removal. Grab the bottom of the door and try to get a couple fingers up under the panel and the door skin. Give it a tug outward and the clips in the bottom of the door will release. Once you can feel the bottom of the door has detached from the door skin just slide up the entire panel and set it aside.

    -Installing your speaker rings-

    -So here is what we are now looking at, the stock speaker. First remove the (4) 10mm bolts securing the speaker to the door skin. Once the bolts have been removed unclip the speaker and set it aside.
    [​IMG]

    -Next we'll need to remove the 4 plastic clips that are left in the door. I've found the best way to do this is to grab them from inside the door skin with a pair of dikes and cut the back sides then pull them out from the outside of the door skin with a pair of needle nose pliers.
    [​IMG]

    And removed
    [​IMG]

    -Next bolt your Speaker ring to the door using the 1 1/4" long 1/4" diameter bolts and lock nuts you picked up. Use 1 washer on the head of the bolt and 1 washer on the back side of the door.
    [​IMG]

    -Next, run the wire for your speakers. In this case we used the facotry wiring.
    [​IMG]

    Stock wiring (Please check this, it may be different for different years):
    Fronts
    LF (+) pink
    LF (-) violet
    RF (+) blue
    RF (-) light green

    Rears For DC's
    LR (+) black
    LR (-) yellow
    RR (+) red
    RR (-) white

    -Lastly, hook up the wiring to your speakers and screw them into the speaker rings using the hardware that came with your speakers
    [​IMG]

    -Now put the door panel back on. Slide it own onto the door front he top and once lined up smack the bottom to get the clips back in. Put your sail panel back on. Put the black clip by the sail back on (pust the center rod out of the clip, put the clip in the door and then push it in flush). Screw in the (2) screws in the door handles and your all set. Now enjoy your new speakers!
     
  2. Aug 17, 2011 at 1:03 PM
    #2
    hookedontronics

    hookedontronics [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    #28863
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    2,783
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    Male
    First Name:
    Jake
    Glenville, NY
    Vehicle:
    2010 DC Off Road 4x4
    Icon extended travel 3.5" front coilovers, DSM UCAs, TSB leaf pack w/ wheelers AAL, All Pro U-bolt flip kit, Walker Evans 2.0 rear shocks, 18" XD Monster rims, Nitto trail grappler 285/65R18 Tires, Color matched grill, Grillcraft, Kragen HIDs, Carling switches, my bed light mod, diff drop, Alpine IVA-W505, JL Audio C5 componets and coaxials, JL 300/4 and 250/1 amps and JL stealthbox, wheathertechs, avs vent visors, toyota bed x-tender, alcantara center console cover and door pocket covers, console vault, color matched mirrors, heated mirrors, etc etc etc
  3. Aug 17, 2011 at 1:20 PM
    #3
    ItalynStylion

    ItalynStylion Sounds Gooooood

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    This came in totally under my radar. Good step by step with very detailed pictures.

    My only suggestions are regarding the white clips that hold the sail panels on and the original speaker clips/threaded inserts.

    The clips that hold the sail panel on, if you're not careful, will fall INTO the door metal and are very hard to get back out. You essentially have to blow air in there till it falls down into a space where you can get it. So basically, make sure you have a firm grasp on it and it doesn't fall in.

    The inserts that hold the stock speaker on I think are the best thing ever and don't know why you'd ever want to remove them. I use a large bolt that accepts an allen wrench like is pictured below. Go to Lowes in the specialty hardware drawers and you'll see them. Buy 8 of those for the front and they thread right in. The plastic anchors hold the baffle in like steel. No way it would ever fall out even if you tried to rip it off. I'd also suggest the use of some weather stripping or foam between the baffle and the door.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Aug 17, 2011 at 1:25 PM
    #4
    2009Silver

    2009Silver Well-Known Member

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    WeatherTechs Bed Extender Bed Mat 3" Lift Spidertrax Clarion DVD HU Overhead Monitor
    LOL I was actually wondering what the hell a HEAT screwdriver was, but I just now figured out you had a typo...
     
  5. Jun 11, 2014 at 4:29 PM
    #5
    fla taco

    fla taco Well-Known Member

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