DIY Replacing Driveshaft Center Bearing

Is that the Spicer? If not, what kind is it?

Regardless, you need to contact the seller and tell them you received a defective part (assuming that is relatively newly installed).

Here's what I just bought. You'll want the same part number if you are 4x4

 

I have a brand new 2WD bearing for sale:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/fs-spicer-center-bearing-5002334.595323/#post-20561353

 

This looks a little too complicated for me

 

It’s not too bad

 

Bought an SKF bearing and SKF u-joint.

 

I'm not familiar with SKF. I definitely think you need to contact the seller about a return or replacement. maybe see if you can pay the difference to get the spicer. The one I posted a pic of above even says TOYOTA and the part number for the 4wd version printed on the rubber (same as others have stated). I think I paid around $67 shipped. Same seller on Amazon and Ebay was $1 cheaper on Ebay.

 

Just finished this and you were a HUGE help.

The OP doesn't mention where to put the jaws of the puller when removing the center yoke (guessing that's what it is called.... the part you have to remove to access the center support bearing). I didn't want to mar the inside of that piece with the puller, but couldn't get it to grip anything else well enough to be useful.

I ended up wrapping the ends with several layers of electrical tape and it seemed to do pretty good. Once I got as far as the puller would pull, I was then able to grab behind and pull that piece off.

I don't think anyone can emphasize enough how important it is to mark everything. Especially that center piece as you remove it. Getting everything lined up properly is crucial!

My last bit of advice. Use 2 different color paint pens. I used yellow to mark everything on thr side where the grease fitting went and orange on another side. This again helped keep everything lined up and aided tremendously during reassembly.

Im sure it has been said before. 65 ft-lbs for the nuts/ bolts connecting at both ends (x-fer case and rear diff) and 27 ft-lbs for center support bearing bolts.

 

Yeah I just saw that. Nut is non reusable per fsm. Yolk is able to be reused per FSM.

Is everyone buying a new nut or reusing it when you replace the center bearing?

 

If you replace the transfer case seal (transmission output seal) get the new upgraded one from Toyota. I bought one off Amazon and it started leaking day one after the job. I had to drop the drive shaft again and put in the Toyota seal.

 

I bought a new nut; it was ~90 cents. The reason you're supposed to replace it is because it is peened into place as a locking mechanism. I will post some puller pics in a bit

 

Ball joint press (I primarily use it for u-joints):



Pullers:









Edit: in this picture you can see the flat on the end of the threaded portion. This is what you deform the nut against to lock it in place.



Edit:
Back together. I reused the clamps. It's not difficult to reuse them, just be careful when removing them. I could not find any locally but Napa said they can order them. You only need to remove the larger clamp.

As said, mark everything with a paint marker. It is not that difficult to get it lined up, just support the ears on a few small pieces of 2X4 and you'll know when it's aligned.

 

How did you keep them from sliding outward when pulling? I tried it like this when I did it and could never get them to grip on anything.

 

It's a "special" puller. Notice the screw that goes thru the jaws. You tighten two nuts and it keeps the jaws from moving. It's an OTC.

Edit: I think it's this one, but I have both sets like it that they make. The other one is a larger spread.

https://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools...MIxIfY_af94wIVg47ICh2XmAfuEAQYASABEgKZG_D_BwE

 

Wish I'd have known that existed. I ended up wrapping the puller fingers in electrical tape to soften them and went through the holes for the u-joint. It worked, but there was some praying involved.

 

@Steve_P That is a nice puller! I rented one from AutoZone that didnt stay put. Resorted to a BFH. Thanks for the nut info. Did you get it from Toyota or Hardware store?

Do you have a part number?

 

The nut PN is 90080-17083- it's a special design to allow you to deform it. Oh, I paid $1.10 for it (I ordered some other stuff online) but it'll probably cost $2 at a local dealer. I also put some blue Loctite on it.

I tried a few whacks with a brass mallet on the yoke but that didn't work so I got out the puller. The pullers that lock the jaws are really handy- the one pulling the bearing also locks the jaws with the cone- cone gets tightened by hand. Good pullers are expensive, and I don't use them that often, but they're huge time savers and sometimes there is just no other way.

 

Wow wish I knew about that puller! Had a hell of a time trying to use a regular one

 

Ha, yeah, that's what I was thinking as I was using it- how would I get the jaws to grip if I didn't have this? There is no flat surface on the rear of the yoke and the sloped shape makes the jaws open. If you don't have a puller like this you could use a large bearing splitter with a large two jaw puller.

I bought the Spicer 4WD support bearing on Ebay and as has been said, it's what you get from Toyota but at a fraction of the price. Cheers to whoever figured that out, but I initially saw it in another thread.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dana-Spicer-DRIVE-SHAFT-CENTER-SUPPORT-BEARING/233180198429?epid=4006409259

 

Nut was $1.57 at the dealership, shipped overnight to parts counter. Cheap and worth it for peace of mind. Finishing this repair today.

 

So while rebuilding my drive shaft, the front shaft fell off my workbench, landed on the threaded end of the carrier bearing...now cannot thread the nut back on.....anyone have some idea of the thread size?

I'm In a pickle to fix; maybe use my angle grinder to grind off 1-2 of the damaged threads.