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DIY: Secondary Air Filter Removal

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by 007Tacoma, Jul 7, 2007.

  1. Jul 12, 2012 at 4:45 PM
    #501
    chriss

    chriss Well-Known Member

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    I'm sorry but, what? I don't follow any of this.
    "By letting more air past the MAF...", thats exactly what a mass air flow sensor is designed for.
    "the atomspheric fuel pressure regulator"??
     
  2. Jul 12, 2012 at 10:23 PM
    #502
    RELLIM

    RELLIM Well-Known Member

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    Scan Gauge II, AFE air filter, charcoal intake filter delete Fitch Fuel Catalyst, Alpine iDA-X303, AMS OIL (ENGINE) Bilstein 5100 RHA series
    In all reality don't worry about fpr or maf, I'm way ahead in my thinking and really u should not have to worry about taking the screen out. Taking the hydrocarbon screen out takes more resistance out of the intake air flow thus getting u more air into the engine.

    When you get into replacing the intake with a Cai or of the sort, then worry about the technical
    Stuff..

    Sorry.. I'm confusing people, I tend to think outside the box and not about the question..
     
  3. Jul 13, 2012 at 6:12 PM
    #503
    chriss

    chriss Well-Known Member

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    What???
     
  4. Jul 15, 2012 at 12:17 AM
    #504
    RELLIM

    RELLIM Well-Known Member

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    Scan Gauge II, AFE air filter, charcoal intake filter delete Fitch Fuel Catalyst, Alpine iDA-X303, AMS OIL (ENGINE) Bilstein 5100 RHA series
    What don't you understand?
    "what" is not a descriptive question.
     
  5. Jul 15, 2012 at 12:36 AM
    #505
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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  6. Jul 15, 2012 at 10:05 AM
    #506
    RELLIM

    RELLIM Well-Known Member

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    Scan Gauge II, AFE air filter, charcoal intake filter delete Fitch Fuel Catalyst, Alpine iDA-X303, AMS OIL (ENGINE) Bilstein 5100 RHA series
    I'm looking to find how much affect the ATM FPR has on the fuel rail. I'm looking for those who understand how this works.
    I'm not fully understanding myself.

    My thinking is that when the engine go into open loop, its using the ATM FPR to help regulate fuel on the rail.
    What other sensors are metering during open-loop?

    All these question arise from the use of a MAF Translater. If it can only change the fuel ratio in open-loop, i don't see the use of it.
    It makes me think that something else leaning the engine out.
    Like for example: the change in air box mods. When you delete things in the air box, would it change air box flow?
    And most of this happens when u take out the stock intake not so much when you pull the hydrocarbon screen.


    Do i need to asking questions in a different thread? I see i am confusing people and my questions more technical.

    I'm looking just looking for someone to bounce ideas off of. I'm not a tech of any sort and im not looking to burn bridges, been down that road before..

    So.. I'm backing out of this thread.
     
  7. Jul 15, 2012 at 10:09 AM
    #507
    RELLIM

    RELLIM Well-Known Member

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    Scan Gauge II, AFE air filter, charcoal intake filter delete Fitch Fuel Catalyst, Alpine iDA-X303, AMS OIL (ENGINE) Bilstein 5100 RHA series
    Sheldon Cooper is awesome lol.

    Nice one Rich
     
  8. Jul 15, 2012 at 4:57 PM
    #508
    chriss

    chriss Well-Known Member

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    Your rambling "outside the box" posts make no sense to me. I apologize if that is offensive in some way.

    First you say don't remove the carbon filter, it will make the engine lean because the MAF cannot compensate. Then later, "I'm way ahead in my thinking and really u should not have to worry about taking the screen out."
    What is an "atomspheric fuel pressure regulator"? How does the intake resonator "acuate the fpr diaphram to close the check valve to keep fuel in the rail during open loop"?
     
  9. Jul 15, 2012 at 8:53 PM
    #509
    RELLIM

    RELLIM Well-Known Member

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    Scan Gauge II, AFE air filter, charcoal intake filter delete Fitch Fuel Catalyst, Alpine iDA-X303, AMS OIL (ENGINE) Bilstein 5100 RHA series
    I don't think it makes a whole lot of difference if you take out the filter.
    I took my out like a year ago .
    All I notice is that when i us the afe dry flow filter is it Seems as if I lose bottom end torque.
    The engine feels less punchy throttle response is poor.
    But your fuel milage goes up a bit.
     
  10. Jul 15, 2012 at 9:07 PM
    #510
    RELLIM

    RELLIM Well-Known Member

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    Scan Gauge II, AFE air filter, charcoal intake filter delete Fitch Fuel Catalyst, Alpine iDA-X303, AMS OIL (ENGINE) Bilstein 5100 RHA series
    The talk about the Maf and Fpr should be for a different thread.
    It's theorys I have about how this engine works . The info about the Maf and fpr are in the Toyota pfd's I found a while back ago, Its all tecnical talk and i get lost in it.

    Ok im Done talking , im quité fine with being called a rambler.

    I am unsure if i like or dislike this mod, this is Why i do so much research.
     
  11. Aug 13, 2012 at 8:21 PM
    #511
    Captain Drywall

    Captain Drywall Tacoma Enthusiast

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    I have a bent up bumper.
    lol, I can belive my eyes, someone drilling out stuff and removing factory filters. Ive had my truck 7 year. This year is my first smog check in California.
     
  12. Aug 15, 2012 at 6:12 AM
    #512
    Ragin Devildoc

    Ragin Devildoc MOLON LABE

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    16x8.5 level 8 guardian w/ hankook dynapro atm rf10, aFe pro dry s, flowmaster dbx exhaust, debadged, 2nd air filter removal
    There are some great posts in here and then there are some that make sense at all. But I would like to clear some things up in the hopes of makeing some peoples lives alittle easier. If you don't agree with what is below - I'm sorry - don't want to step on your toes. Just everything below is spoken based on facts.

    1. I did the filter removal and throttle response does increase slightly - not much, but once I throw in the aFe pro dry and due a exhaust change I am positive the throttle will be much lighter to the touch. MPGs will increase very slightly with a less restrictive air flow which will cause your AFR to adjust slightly at higher RPMs.

    2. Dyno sheets unfortuantely don't prove much unless you have the same vehicle in the same location with the same engine. When the DA (Density Altitude)(Temp+Humidity+Sea Level) adjusts then your vehicles HP and MPG with change with slightly better/worse effects to speak of. I.E. when it is cold out with low humidity your MPGs by nature should drop slightly and HP go up. When hot and humid (70d over 50%) your HP drops but MPGs should increase. I myself have dyno proved this on 2 different vehicles in the same state (of course in a January setting and July setting)

    3. In emission based states removal of an air filter and replacement with a high flow is most often generally accepted with no consequences. BUT if you place a "designed for off-road use" intake system (or filter) then you may just run into problems. Most manufacturers with actually get their products approved for smog control if possible so there is no liability for you. Since Cali has some of the toughest standards out there most states follow their lead. What you are looking for is the EO (Executive Order) for the part. This certifies that it is approved to pass smog tests in Cali. Here is the link to check out any performance based modifications and what the EO number is http://www.arb.ca.gov/msprog/aftermkt/devices/amquery.php


    Hope this helps some people out.
     
  13. Sep 10, 2012 at 4:32 PM
    #513
    JayS

    JayS Well-Known Member

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    Man there sure is a lot of back and forth on this thread. I just went and did it. Seems like an easy mod, and if it doesn't help my MPG, oh well. So I lost 5 minutes of my life. It sure can't hurt it. I would like to say I will give accurate gains/losses by doing this, but I just filled up before I cut the charcoal filter out, and this will be the first tank that I am tracking after cleaning my MAF and throttle body. Either way I will post the results of what it does.
    Fairly easy for me to do, as I got a new job and drive around 100 miles round trip every day. Thus far I have been getting 20.2 MPG. I had to work up to that, because I just got the truck a month or so ago, and you know I had to test out the "get up and go" on that long drive. All highway miles. 2005 Prerunner Dbl Cab, 111,000 miles.
     
  14. Sep 14, 2012 at 7:03 PM
    #514
    JayS

    JayS Well-Known Member

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    OK. So I clocked my mileage. My thoughts on pulling the secondary filter....It probably didn't do a whole lot. I might have noticed a little bit quicker acceleration. It could have been the placebo effect, or cleaning the TB and MAF sensor. However with that said, I did fill it up today and I hit 21.2 MPG. Even if pulling the filter didn't do a lot, I thought I felt something, and hey, it took like 2 minutes to do it. I used the sharp chisel and hammer and hammer. Super easy. I'm just glad that I hit 21.2 MPG. That makes a difference when you drive 52 miles one way M-F. At least until I get done training and go on shift. Then I will only work half the year....Dupont 12s
     
  15. Sep 14, 2012 at 7:31 PM
    #515
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    MPG on one tank means nothing.

    Follow the link in my signature and see how wildly my MPG varies from tank to tank.
     
  16. Sep 14, 2012 at 7:55 PM
    #516
    JayS

    JayS Well-Known Member

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    I understand that, but I have been getting 20.2 for the last 5 tanks or so. I calculate my mileage with every fill up. I drive the same route, at the same times, with the same traffic, or lack there of, every day. Except on the weekends. Very few differences. I would bet you money that I will be the same with the next fill up.
     
  17. Sep 14, 2012 at 8:26 PM
    #517
    worthywads

    worthywads Well-Known Member

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    Now that you have money at stake I wouldn't bet against you.

    I drive the same every day, but with my scangauge just 1 or 2 red lights shows me a 3-4 mpg difference. Keep the data coming, but don't be so sure.
     
  18. Sep 14, 2012 at 8:50 PM
    #518
    JayS

    JayS Well-Known Member

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    No money, no money..I could understand that. Maybe I should try and keep track of which/how many lights I stop at on the way to work. Never thought that it would make that big of a difference. I know there was a learning to curve to get up to this MPG. I realized that all the blowing past people because they were going 65-66 when I wanted to go 70 was not gonna cut it. Plus I had just gotten the truck, and had to put her thru her paces. lol
    Now however, if there is someone in front, as long as they aren't doing less than 63 mph, I just drop the speed and cruise...... I might get there maybe 3-5 minutes later than if I flew by them to drive 70 mph.
     
  19. Sep 14, 2012 at 9:11 PM
    #519
    worthywads

    worthywads Well-Known Member

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    Drive 1 tank at max 60 and I think you will be surprised. But first, time your current driving and see find out how much time you actually save.
     
  20. Sep 14, 2012 at 9:25 PM
    #520
    JayS

    JayS Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, I know that going 60 would def. be a big savings, but the speed limit is 65mph for at least 3/4 of the drive. I wouldn't want to go anything under that, even once, because I know how pissed I get when people are going under the speed limit in front of me. And on this road, there are just enough occasional cars, that only seem to come when there are no curves, that it makes it hard to pass.
     

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