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DIY - Tailgate Lock - (cheap quick writeup, lots of pics, 56k go walk your dog)

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by lookylookitzadam, Jul 23, 2010.

Page 2 of 5
  1. Sep 5, 2010 at 12:10 PM
    #21
    lookylookitzadam

    #21
    lookylookitzadam [OP] Retrofit Club!

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    I am down for a mod day.

    I also need to do a trail run with my girl. She needs off-road driving experience since her grad school classes have off-road field trips
     
    lookylookitzadam, Sep 5, 2010
    #21
  2. Sep 5, 2010 at 12:32 PM
    #22
    lembowski

    #22
    lembowski Well-Known Member

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    For sure, trails runs may be put on hold till it cools down a little.

    I will talk to everyone to see if we can do a small SD Mod day soon. Been a few weeks since I turned a wrench.
     
    lembowski, Sep 5, 2010
    #22
  3. Sep 5, 2010 at 12:39 PM
    #23
    Taco2K10

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    Taco2K10 All OEM All Japanese All The Time!

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    great idea! I wonder if you could eliminate the barrel locks and use a single actuator to lock the actual tailgate handle mechanism
     
    Taco2K10, Sep 5, 2010
    #23
  4. Nov 3, 2010 at 3:14 PM
    #24
    andrew19

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    andrew19 Well-Known Member

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    good write up i am going to try this!!​
     
    andrew19, Nov 3, 2010
    #24
  5. Nov 3, 2010 at 3:49 PM
    #25
    tacomaintraining

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    tacomaintraining Well-Known Member

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    who still has 56K anyway?
     
    tacomaintraining, Nov 3, 2010
    #25
  6. Nov 21, 2010 at 11:00 AM
    #26
    Yoytoda

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    Yoytoda The Little Truck That Could

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    quick question... why did you use 2 relays?

    nice mod though
     
    Yoytoda, Nov 21, 2010
    #26
  7. Nov 21, 2010 at 11:35 AM
    #27
    Nightstr

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    Nightstr Well-Known Member

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    Good job.
     
    Nightstr, Nov 21, 2010
    #27
  8. Nov 21, 2010 at 9:17 PM
    #28
    cactuscorn

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    cactuscorn Another FNG

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    id also like to run em this way. for those of us with backup cams, the wire routing should be easy enough.

    very creative and bright idea. thanx!
     
    cactuscorn, Nov 21, 2010
    #28
  9. Nov 21, 2010 at 9:32 PM
    #29
    lookylookitzadam

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    lookylookitzadam [OP] Retrofit Club!

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    The way actuators work is that the require a +12v on wire 1 and ground on wire to extend, then they need a +12v on wire 2 and ground on wire 1 to retract. This can only be achieved through the use of relays.

    Our door locks are negatively switched, so you would have to utilize a relays still. Also ultimately you need them for the reason I said above.

    You could run 1 relay off the stock unlock pulse wire and 1 relay off the stock lock pulse wire if you really want to, but the stock wiring relay doesnt have the current to drive these actuators.
     
    lookylookitzadam, Nov 21, 2010
    #29
  10. Nov 21, 2010 at 9:40 PM
    #30
    Yoytoda

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    Yoytoda The Little Truck That Could

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    gotcha, i missread the diagram. i read "lock" for both impulses... my bad
     
    Yoytoda, Nov 21, 2010
    #30
  11. Nov 21, 2010 at 9:41 PM
    #31
    cactuscorn

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    cactuscorn Another FNG

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    i THINK(?) i understand. so in order to tap into the stock door locking harness to run these, id have to increase voltage somehow? how would this be done? pardon me for bein electronically challenged.
     
    cactuscorn, Nov 21, 2010
    #31
  12. Nov 21, 2010 at 9:42 PM
    #32
    Yoytoda

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    Yoytoda The Little Truck That Could

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    no, stock voltage is 12V. you use the stock harness for the trigger and the relay which takes the load off the stock wiring to actuate the lock
     
    Yoytoda, Nov 21, 2010
    #32
  13. Nov 21, 2010 at 9:47 PM
    #33
    cactuscorn

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    cactuscorn Another FNG

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    ok, i get it now. he was answerin yer question, not mine. so all id have to do is find a spot in the lock harness to tap into with 1 of them thare fancy dancy clamp on dumas's... right?
     
    cactuscorn, Nov 21, 2010
    #33
  14. Nov 21, 2010 at 9:55 PM
    #34
    Yoytoda

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    Yoytoda The Little Truck That Could

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    in theory yes, but i never use those splice clampy dohickies... lol

    solder and heat shrink is better by preventing corrosion, corrosion causes a bad connect>heat>fire...you get where im going with that. they arent safe...
     
    Yoytoda, Nov 21, 2010
    #34
  15. Nov 21, 2010 at 10:10 PM
    #35
    cactuscorn

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    cactuscorn Another FNG

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    roger doger. than man! i may just try this. its added to my steadely growin list for now
     
    cactuscorn, Nov 21, 2010
    #35
  16. Nov 22, 2010 at 9:07 AM
    #36
    scottri

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    scottri Well-Known Member

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    Cool idea! Nice job.
     
    scottri, Nov 22, 2010
    #36
  17. May 3, 2011 at 1:31 PM
    #37
    SpecializedTaco

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    A pistol seems like an easier fix.
     
    SpecializedTaco, May 3, 2011
    #37
  18. May 4, 2011 at 1:55 PM
    #38
    SpecializedTaco

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    SpecializedTaco Member

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    Happened to have one of these clamps laying around in the garage. Needless to say, easy fix and will slow the thief's down a bit.
     
    SpecializedTaco, May 4, 2011
    #38
  19. Aug 25, 2011 at 8:35 PM
    #39
    TIPICOTACO

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    TIPICOTACO Well-Known Member

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    WOW this is nice! will it work on a 1st gen? How did you run the wires? I suck at electrical. Great Job
     
    TIPICOTACO, Aug 25, 2011
    #39
  20. Aug 25, 2011 at 9:26 PM
    #40
    ee1284

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    ee1284 Well-Known Member

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    Dont forget about the doors auto locking if a door isnt opened for 30 seconds. Would that effect the locks on the tailgate?

    Would suck to hit the unlock to open the tailgate then a minute later try to slam it shut with the barrel locks in the extended position.
     
    ee1284, Aug 25, 2011
    #40
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