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DIY: Wiring after-market lights

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by rhoppas, Mar 6, 2008.

  1. Nov 23, 2010 at 2:19 AM
    #81
    TACBOY

    TACBOY Well-Known Member

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    none as of yet there is not much to offer here in germany ,but when i get back to the states next year it's a different ball game
    hi guys i got aftermarkt lighs on my truck with 55watt bulbs in them and i wanted to know if i could change them to 130watt bulbs without making any major mods any input would help much the nights here in germany are awful no lights on the roads until you get to the towns and the animals wreak havoc on the cars here you can't see them till it's toooo late ergo deer and badgers and all that especial suicidal rabits

    thanks
     
  2. Nov 23, 2010 at 4:11 AM
    #82
    piercedtiger

    piercedtiger Devout Atheist

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    My first thought would be the 130 watt bulbs would produce too much heat. Putting a 130 in a fixture designed for 55 is probably going to melt.
     
  3. Dec 9, 2010 at 9:42 AM
    #83
    Redgrom

    Redgrom http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-builds/29

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  4. Dec 31, 2010 at 4:12 PM
    #84
    memario1214

    memario1214 Vivid Illumination Vendor

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    +1 thanks a lot for this thread! I was able to correct a major stupid on my part thanks to this!
     
  5. Jan 4, 2011 at 10:11 PM
    #85
    hamNswiss on rye

    hamNswiss on rye ¡Yo Quiero Taco World!

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    OME 885's and billies all around, allpro apex front bumper, Nfab tire carrier, black magic rallye 1000 driving lights, custom back to the future light rack, KC LED Daylighters, PIAA 510 fogs, bed lights, satoshi, 285/70/17 Duratracs
    Rhoppas, thanks a lot for this...super helpful. It's feels much better knowing im wiring these things the right way. I just had s couple questions for you; how are you tapping into your battery? are you just using the crimp on ring connectors or what?

    also, is the only reason you're going through the fuse box to make the lights turn off with the truck? if i wasnt worried about them being synced with the ignition, could i just bypass the entire fuse aspect?

    thanks
     
  6. Jan 26, 2011 at 11:05 PM
    #86
    AndrewTacoma

    AndrewTacoma Active Member

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    http://www.4x4s-pod.com/

    Hey check out this site.

    I have the full setup of this and it works just great and simple and ease of hooking up aux. lights and such.
     
  7. Jan 31, 2011 at 8:51 PM
    #87
    AzogSS

    AzogSS Well-Known Member

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    Subscribed. Thanks for writing this up!
     
  8. Mar 16, 2011 at 8:37 PM
    #88
    h20wahine

    h20wahine New Member

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    May I ask because I am totally new to this. What is the difference between a diode relay to a non? What did you use?
     
  9. May 29, 2011 at 2:39 PM
    #89
    tjstoy66

    tjstoy66 New Member

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    07 prerunner sr5, I installed Optilux 4" HID on stainless bull bar and got light on dash saying take straight to Toyota dealer. No A/C, no turn signals, and had to remove plug to shift out of park. What fuse did I blow, the fuses for the lights did not blow. HELP!!:(:(
     
  10. May 29, 2011 at 2:51 PM
    #90
    tjstoy66

    tjstoy66 New Member

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    Installed Optilux 4" HID on stainless bull bar, blew some internal fuse, no A/C, no turn signals and had to remove plug to shift out of park. Light on dash says take immediately to Toyota dealer. Fuses for lights did not blow. HELP!!!:(:(
     
  11. May 31, 2011 at 2:56 AM
    #91
    JoeRags27

    JoeRags27 Because I can

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    Aftermarket tires/all black aftermarket wheels/LED interior floor MOD/Cargo bed net/Interior LED Mod/Plasti dip Emblems Mod/Plasti Dip grill Black/Black Headlight Mod/AFE Pro Dry S Filter
    under my little pull down compartment on the left of the dash underneath my blank factory switch slots where I would put my new switch, up under there is a blank harness/switch plug in looking adapter not sure what it is it is labeled with a black removable cap labeled OBD or OBO anyone have pics of this or know what this is? Thing is my 4banger is not prewired for Fogs. No harnesses in sight under my wheel wells/empty fog spaces behind bumper. Any help would be appreciated!
     
  12. May 31, 2011 at 9:11 PM
    #92
    JoeRags27

    JoeRags27 Because I can

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    NEVER MIND I GOT IT ITS THE ON BOARD DIAGNOSTICS LOL ALL GOOD
     
  13. Jun 1, 2011 at 5:23 AM
    #93
    JoeRags27

    JoeRags27 Because I can

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    WILL THIS WORK FOR MY LED'S? MAKING SURE EVERYTHING IS RIGHT AND YES IM SOLDERING THE SPLICE NOT CRIMPING!!! HAHA

    FUSE DIAGRAM.jpg
     
  14. Aug 15, 2011 at 9:13 AM
    #94
    Stoy

    Stoy Well-Known Member

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    None yet!
    rhoppas This was a great job, Thank You...
     
  15. Sep 29, 2011 at 7:49 PM
    #95
    Shooter25

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    Hey anyone know where to get replacement 6 inch lense? took a turkey out with one of my KC's and no way i want to pay $45 for a damn lense.....
     
  16. Oct 15, 2011 at 8:25 PM
    #96
    Lazylegs

    Lazylegs Well-Known Member

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  17. Oct 18, 2011 at 8:27 PM
    #97
    DOUBLLD

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    where did you get the fuse taps at?
     
  18. Oct 18, 2011 at 8:38 PM
    #98
    memario1214

    memario1214 Vivid Illumination Vendor

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    Auto parts stores sell that stuff... Wal-mart does even sometimes too if I remember correctly
     
  19. Dec 14, 2011 at 5:43 PM
    #99
    halfway72

    halfway72 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the info!! I've been looking everywhere for a description on how to do this!
     
  20. Jan 1, 2012 at 9:11 PM
    #100
    SnowroxKT

    SnowroxKT AK SnowroxKT

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    Just one more thing to think about when wiring these is to use a wire that will withstand the current and not melt. I like bumping a size or two up for good measure just incase you change the lights out later too, or just for some extra peace of mind. Great info and thanks for the post!

    **EDIT** say it says 14 gauge wire... That outta be plenty but here is a link I found useful to double check some things

    http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/amps-wire-gauge-d_730.html
     
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