Do I need rotors or can I get away with a pad slap?

Needing expert opinions on this one.

Always a non-stop surprise with the fiancee's Veloster. Everytime we talk about it I discover a new critical issue, but that's another story.


So this week I learn that the brakes measured at 2mm for her last oil change. The local CB shop wants a thousand to replace all 4 rotors. Hell naw. For that kind of money I'll watch a youtube vid and swap 'em myself. (I'm already aggravated that they managed to sneak in a $15 "oil additive" into the basic fluid/filter change. Looks like I need to start paying closer attention to whats being done to this car.)

Here's the question - I ran my fingers across all four rotors. No pitting, no grooves felt, no rust. What would you guys do if you were in my shoes? Would you spring for the pad/rotor set, or would you just slap new pads on? Odometer just rolled 100k. If I'm pricing them right its $100 for the basic F+R pads, and roughly $300 for a full set.

 

As long as there's no pulsating pedal and they look good I've always pad slapped mine

 

I don't know anything about Velosters but charging a grand to replace pads/rotors on any vehicle sounds like highway robbery. Unless it's more involved of a process than our front pads/rotors are, I'm not sure

But to answer your question, rotors are cheap and it's a good idea to replace them when doing the brake pads

 

You can get pads way cheaper on rock Auto.
I've done a pads slap, it's fine but remember you might get noise.
72 $ for a front brake kit pads and rotors.

 

A couple of points to consider. Check the rotor for minimum thickness as well as pads.

If you are above minimum rotor thickness, they should be turned to remove any grooves, pits, glazing.
If you are at or below minimum rotor thickness, then replace.

Compare the cost of turning the rotors to replacement rotors. Many times the replacement rotors are less $$$ than turning.

You need pads regardless of the rotor situation.

Typically, rotor replacement is a fairly straight forward DIY task.

 

I can only guess that is the going rate for a full brake service where the car lives .

Otherwise they would never see those brake jobs.

Does it have outboard rotors or are you into pulling bearings apart repacking etc I have no clue.

If they quote was for just pads and rotors it does sound a bit expensive.

 

That is a good question with the outboard rotors. I've actually only had to pull bearings for brakes on a chevy 3500 hd van. Since it is hyundai I'm guessing it's not like that. People now days don't know anything so the going rate just gets inflated to insanity.

 

I just scanned through a couple of videos. Looks outboard to me. Rotor comes off with a pair of screws.

 

As long as it's not rusted I bet you can knoch out all four for 140$ and and hour and half

 

Talked it over with the missus and she would feel better about the car if I just did the whole set. Yes ma'am. Thanks for your suggestion to look at Rock Auto. Picked up F+R pads, rotors, and an air filter for 200 bucks. And then off to Amazon to pick up a cheapass caliper unwinder for 7 bucks. Not bad.

 

If my rotors are smooth on both sides and I have no braking issues, I just replace the pads.

 

rotors need ‘ turning ‘ ONLY when they are out o round

grooved or pitted as U mentioned IS NOT PRESENT

changing pads is EASY

done before issues with rotors iv replaced pads 2-3 times b4 the rotoras are refreshed

OEM Padz usually wear very well................its reasonable to expect same results

hyped marketing advertised aftermaeket may not actually e better

 

Well today is going about as expected.



8 am: hitched my camper to the truck and pulled both out of the garage so I could have space to work. Rolled the veloster into the garage and laid out parts. Dug out the smallest of my bottle jacks and also the farm jack, realized that none of them are small enough to reach underneath this tiny car. Fuck.

9am: AutoZone opens. Drive tacoma to the parts store, try to find a spot long enough to park the camper. Buy a 30 dollar floor jack.

9:15- thirty dollar floor jack already has problems with its cheapass caster wheels. No matter. Car is on stands and wheels are off. Pull front calipers. Take off front rotor. Realize that these parts don't even remotely look like the parts recieved from Rock Auto. Replacements are almost half the size of the fronts, and half as thick.



9:30 - getting harder to find large enough parking spot at advance auto parts to accommodate the camper. Bring brake pads into store. Not in stock. Go across the street to OReilleys. Also not in stock. Drive 15 minutes away to the next closest Advanced. In stock. 100 dollars for a set of four pads.
Weird story about Hyundai Velosters; different trims use one of three different size brakes. Apparently the middle trim (turbo but not turbo-rs) uses the largest rotors.
At least I had the foresight to look at the calipers. The rears use the socket unwinder tool that I bought earlier, but the fronts need a simple compression vise. Fuck this weird ass car. 10 bucks for the cheapest caliper squeezer on the shelf. Back to the garage.



10:00- slap pads. Easy and done. Pop the hood to swap the air filter. Notice a growing puddle of mystery fluid dribbling down the trans, right above the cross member that I used as my jack stand point. Temporarily die from panic.






10:15 - slowly come to the realization that maybe, just maybe backing off four calipers might cause the reservoir to run over. Take a minute to recover from temporary death. Start to put wheels back on. Notice the bumper is loose. Find remnants of broken clip still bolted to inner fender.

11:00 - off to ace hardware! One tube of marine JB weld to reattach broken bumper clip. Let that cure. Start the car and pump the brakes back into position. Pedal feels good, spilt fluid smells bad. Oh well. While car is running fiddle with AC controls to turn them off. Notice blower doesn't run unless it's on the highest setting.




Noon- continuing to let jb weld cure. Searching google for what a blower resistor even looks like on this car.

Noon-o'-one : pop a beer and get on TW to cry about it.

There is light at the end of this tunnel.... I hope....




PS. Not too happy with Rock Auto's return policy. They are charging for the return shipping. I double checked, I knew I entered the right trim and model when looking for parts. Its a minor thing, but shit like that makes me prefer a brick and mortar.

 

these parts we have state inspections..............brakes & ANYthing associated at top o list !!

some of the replacement parts U can get aftermarket will barely get U down the road very far

no less ddont stop very well

they met the letter o the law YET are NOT very effective ................ Flintstone brakes are Better !!!

those type parts are VERY CHEAP !!!

i wouldnt use them on a riding lawn mower

if U have parts wrangler dude bring out the offerings Ud see plenty o crap

dont get caught in a cheap trap when Braking is important

 

You learned a very valuable lesson about RockAuto. It sucks. There is too much risk when it comes to getting the right part in and their return policy is absolute trash. Also, their shipping prices are asinine and Id bet that once you price it out you couldve ordered the rotors+pads from your local Oreilly and maybe only pay a few bucks more. They are always running their 15% off 2 rotors+pads deal and it works with ship to store.