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Do you regret going to 35s?

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by Taconator_, May 24, 2018.

  1. May 25, 2018 at 5:04 AM
    #21
    chadabear

    chadabear Well-Known Member

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    If you are that mechanically inclined, buy the gear set, and remove the diff's, then carry them to a shop for gear swap. That saves a ton of labor $$
     
  2. May 25, 2018 at 5:14 AM
    #22
    Bluegrass Taco

    Bluegrass Taco Politically incorrect low tech redneck

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    Years ago, I did ring and pinions for a bunch of drag racer friends, plus my own 4wds. Probably did 200 + or -. Came time to re-gear the 2011 Tacoma I have now. I did it. I survived it. They're doing fine after 25K + miles. I'm not a bad mechanic... Bought Motive Gear kits and went at it!

    That said, I wouldn't do ANOTHER one for love nor money. Rear is easy. Probably the easiest diff made to re-gear. Doing front diff (by myself) was horrendous. (Sux being old)

    This is my 5 Toyota. First 4 had 35's. This one will too. That was planned from day one. There probably won't be a 6th.

    :sawzall::sawzall::sawzall::sawzall::sawzall::sawzall::sawzall::sawzall::sawzall::sawzall::sawzall::sawzall::sawzall::sawzall::sawzall::sawzall::sawzall::sawzall::sawzall::sawzall:
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2018
  3. May 25, 2018 at 5:26 AM
    #23
    MO Tacoma

    MO Tacoma Well-Known Member

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    I only slightly regret going to 35s but probably a different way than what you think. I should have gone straight to 37s.
     
    TegoTaco, taco 16, dylmatik and 3 others like this.
  4. May 25, 2018 at 6:08 AM
    #24
    Woodrow F Call

    Woodrow F Call Kindling crackles and the smoke curls up...

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    This post should be a sticky.
     
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  5. May 25, 2018 at 6:29 AM
    #25
    SearArtist

    SearArtist GX poor

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  6. May 25, 2018 at 8:11 AM
    #26
    Taconator_

    Taconator_ [OP] IG: ohv_tacotruck

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    I don’t think I realized how much work is involved in fitting 35s! You guys hammer the firewall!? I didn’t even know that.

    I’ll just stick to what I originally bought. Gonna have to call UPS now. My tires ended up in Reno Nevada and I’m in Los Angeles :facepalm:


    Edit: also, I thought you only had to re-gear the back.. why the front as well?
     
  7. May 25, 2018 at 8:15 AM
    #27
    Bluegrass Taco

    Bluegrass Taco Politically incorrect low tech redneck

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    Pinch weld on firewall SHOULD be flattened even with 33"'s.
     
  8. May 25, 2018 at 8:24 AM
    #28
    tcjacado

    tcjacado Well-Known Member

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    You will get binding at different gear ratios front and back In 4wd. Got to be the same front and back.
     
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  9. May 25, 2018 at 8:24 AM
    #29
    Taconator_

    Taconator_ [OP] IG: ohv_tacotruck

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    Ahh.. the pinch welds.
    for some reason I though it was the inner side of the wheel well by the cab.
     
    tcjacado likes this.
  10. May 25, 2018 at 8:27 AM
    #30
    Bluegrass Taco

    Bluegrass Taco Politically incorrect low tech redneck

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    I cut the pinch weld OFF with a cut off wheel, then mig welded the seam, then emptied a can of flex-seal on both fender wells. No leaks, no rubs (so far)
     
    2016trdtacoma likes this.
  11. May 25, 2018 at 8:29 AM
    #31
    Taconator_

    Taconator_ [OP] IG: ohv_tacotruck

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    Are there any reproductions to flattening the welds? Or would cutting and welding be more effective?
     
  12. May 25, 2018 at 8:33 AM
    #32
    Bluegrass Taco

    Bluegrass Taco Politically incorrect low tech redneck

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    There CAN be problems with either. It doesn't take much to see the potential for problems with sledge hammering body parts....Then there's the potential for leaks.

    Mig welding is great, IF, you take precautions to NOT set the inside of the cab on fire, you DON'T burn holes in the weld seam that eventually leak.

    All things equal, I like the structural integrity and positive seal of the weld. YMMV
     
  13. May 25, 2018 at 9:20 AM
    #33
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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    I’ve gotten quotes from a couple shops and they’re still way more than ECGS. Just can’t beat their prices. Like outlined earlier the cost of actual labor is only a couple hundred bucks.
     
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  14. May 25, 2018 at 9:23 AM
    #34
    TACORIDER

    TACORIDER Just another statistic

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    Nailed it and I did it in that order. When you do all then then plan to trim some more
     
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  15. May 25, 2018 at 9:28 AM
    #35
    KENNY

    KENNY Well-Known Member

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    I thought I had everything taken care of planning each process beforehand, still rubs!
     
  16. May 25, 2018 at 9:33 AM
    #36
    Bluegrass Taco

    Bluegrass Taco Politically incorrect low tech redneck

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    Back "in the day", when I was doing r & p 's for the racers, I'd do a 9" Ford (carry in center section) for $100. 12 bolt Chevies I'd get $200. Last one's I did on a regular basis I got about double that. Labor is NOTHING (unless you're pulling it from under car/truck)

    I'd still do a walk in 8" or 8.4" REAR Toyota for $250. Front diff's....maybe $400 (just because I HATE working on them)

    Parts and freight are what bag the money....and remove/re-install

    Toyota rears are almost too simple.

    It is beneficial to most people to get 'em done where there's some sort of warranty ( ie ECGS)
     
    EatSleepTacos[QUOTED] likes this.
  17. May 25, 2018 at 8:40 PM
    #37
    Ravnikar610

    Ravnikar610 Well-Known Member

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    Do you think if I'm clearing 285/75/16 on stock suspension with minimal rubbing I could pull off 35s with 2-3" lift? No more cutting/hammering/moving plastic? Not trying to be an asshole, I would genuinely like your opinion.
     
  18. May 25, 2018 at 8:41 PM
    #38
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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    Negative, as lift doesn't play a roll in clearing tires. You need to think about it fitting through the whole cycle of suspension i.e. full stuff, lock to lock in which lift doesn't play a roll.

    Plus you'd likely need new wheels/wheel spacers to clear the UCAs, which pushes the tire farther out, which means more rubbing.
     
  19. May 25, 2018 at 8:50 PM
    #39
    KrnTaco08

    KrnTaco08 Well-Known Member

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    Is there a big difference from 285 to 295? I’m currently running 285s and thought about going a lil bigger.

    Going 35s sounds like a PITA to do so thanks for making my mind up lol
     
  20. May 25, 2018 at 9:27 PM
    #40
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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    I think everyone is aware of that, but when saying "285" pretty much everyone knows we're referring to 285/70r17 or 285/75r16. Just saves the hassle of typing it all out.

    I went from 255s to 295s so the change was pretty drastic. I'm not sure how much of a difference you'd notice jumping from a 285 to a 295. I'd only switch if your current tires need replacing anyways. If you want any pics let me know.
     
    Junkhead likes this.

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