Dobinsons 2016-2023 Taco Suspension Options

You don't want to grease between the bushing and the eye of the leaf pack. Grease between the bolt and the metal bushing sleeve. This is a source of where leaf spring squeeks come from.

 

Gotcha, Im just going off the UCA bushing maintenance. Thats probably where my leafs are squeaking now, good to know when I go to do the pack swap soon.

 

Hence the greasable pins from Dobinsons. They put the grease between the pin and the bushing sleeve. I do get squeeking from my shackle bushing though, I wish I would have put a greasable pin there too, but the factory Toyota shackle bushing is a major pain in the ass to remove. You'll have to press or burn it out.

 

Far cheaper in time/$ to just buy the OE part, they're like $25 bucks...that's my plan once I decide it's necessary/OE bushing is squeaking/run its usable life.

 

Nice! I plan on doing some BAMF or Archive rear spring hangers, so I'll probably go this route!

 

The hammer hangers are beefie, made a major improvement in rear jitter and shimmying for the on road and gravel road uses I've had this month.

Did replace my leaf to the L59-111-R and kept the OE bushing up there, did Dobinsons bushings in the leaf springs (though now knowing the sleeves are tapped to allow greaseable bolt grease to penetrate [never saw that detail on website or TW] so I might consider getting 3 sets...).

 

https://parts.olathetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-shackle-kit-spring-0400565104

 

Thanks Greg! Is that price for one shackle?

 

it's titled shackle kit, I didn't order it yet, but I know it's hard to believe a pair of factory metal parts costing so little.

https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-shackle-kit-spring-0400565104
this one's even cheaper, I do believe it is a pair.

 

~5 weeks into my Dobinsons lift and loving it so far. Nose dive is gone at stoplights, tight body roll around roundabouts, and handled great on a difficult rated trail with some pretty gnarly features.

2019 DCSB OR
Only extra weight is a shell @ ~190 lbs and camping gear that never leaves the truck ~ 75lbs?

C59-302 with GS59-220 struts (2.6" estimated lift by specs)
110-R leaf springs
59-940 rear shocks
Stock UCAs - alignment passed on day of install, and 2 weeks later again.

Pre vs Post (+ Gain)
FD 20.5" 22.75" 2.25"
FP 20.5" 23.0 " 2.50"
RP 21.0" 22.5 1.5"
RD 21.0" 22.0 1.0"

I have a somewhat uneven load in the back of the truck right now on the drivers side, and a full tank of gas which I am comfortable to attribute to the 1/4" less up front and 1/2" less in the back. Or maybe just shitty pre-measurements who knows I was in a hurry!


First photo: lifted on stock wheels / tires.


Currently with 255/85/16 Cooper ST Maxx on stock OR wheels


Gained 2.75" up front before settling, now at 2.5" as desired
Gained 2.5" in the rear before settling and I think now it's at 2.25 but I'd have to do measurements again to be sure. Overall slight rake which is perfect and what I wanted. If you're hesitating on this lift it's 100% worth it and @Crikeymike is always a DM away was very helpful.

 

Truck looks perfect! I'm surprised how good the 110 springs carry the camper shell. Do you have airbags in? I was debating between 110 vs 111 leaf springs, but ended up choosing the 111 because of the long bed.

I just splurged on the 2" MRA 3-way adjustable kit found here. Today is the last day to take advantage of the free top mount and free strut assembly offer.

 

I took mine out, and definitely enjoy the ride more, especially on the street. You'll get a little more body roll as expected with higher speed turns, but considering these shocks are stiffer than stock, I found it quite welcome. You can think of it as a step back toward the stock OR feel. And who doesn't love more articulation off road?

Looks good! I'd love to know your numbers when you remeasure. I was running the same exact setup with no additional weight and found that it settled to 1.5" up front and 1.25" in the back. Don't forget to take in to account your 33's though if you measured ground to fender.

 

Question for you @Crikeymike in regards to shock bushings during install. I ran across your exitoffroad youtube videos, and found that in the MRA video you mentioned tightening the nut under vehicle weight until the bushing bulges out to the diameter of the washer, but in the twin tube video you say to tighten the nut all the way until the bottom of the threads while it's off the vehicle. Is that shock specific or front/rear specific?

 

Front struts get tightened at the top all the way down until it runs out of threads. The front will look the same either way, and the struts get assembled off the vehicle anyway, so you can't put the weight of the vehicle on it. There's a video I have in there somewhere of how to assemble them and I point out the thicknesses of the struts and how to tighten down that top bushing.

The rears get tightened until the bushing bulges to the width of the washer with the car on the ground under the weight of the vehicle.

 

Is there any reason why the fronts are tightened more? Or does that really make any difference? I used the truck as a spring compressor, so I was installing the top bushing when the strut was on the truck. Then once I had the weight on the wheels I tightened the nut until the bushings were as wide as the washers. There's probably only a couple extra turns to be had until it's at the end of the threads, but thought I'd ask out of curiosity. I'm running the 220 shocks by the way.

 

This video will answer any questions you have about it. And what happens if it's not done right.

https://youtu.be/ZjF37uC4n-M

 

no airbags. even when I sit on the tailgate, the compression of the springs has significantly less sag than stock. It was the first thing my buddy noticed when he sat on the tailgate. Nice and firm, hard to say what the rake would be like without the camper shell but im right in the ballpark of the weight rating for the 110 springs.

 

Thanks for your review! That's why I'm torn between 110's and 111's leaf springs. 90% of the time I drive the truck empty, but the remaining 10% of the time I load it heavy (oak cord wood, cab-over camper for example). Although, I do have the constant load of the sliders, full aluminum skid package, slimline bumper w/ winch, dual compressor, kids, long bed, miscellaneous gear. Luckily, I can remove a leaf if it's too stiff. I have airbags, and I'll be using these custom flip pates with bump stops- will report back after install!

 

Yep, that's the one I watched. Sounds like the point of tightening the nut all the way down is to get the bushing and washer to the same thickness so I guess my question was answered before I even asked it lol.

But...after rewatching the video I realized I installed the washer and bushings upside down...I put the ones with the lip on the top side of the top hat instead of underneath as that was the order they came in the package. I can't imagine it's too big of an issue but I'll switch them when my 1/4" driver spacer comes in.

That said, I think a few people in this thread lamented the lack of instructions, so thanks for making the video!