Dobinsons 2016-2023 Taco Suspension Options

Yes, the MRA's coil seat is fully height adjustable.

But the combination of the 314's and the

$356 GS59-221 Dobinsons Pair of Front Struts Compatible with Toyota FJ Cruiser 2006-2010 and Tacoma 4x4 2005-2018 - GS59-221

GS59-221 or 220's generally aren't described as stiff. If they're brand new, they may not have settled and broken in fully yet.

Shocks ultimately control ride quality and comfort.

 

Are the IMS59 monotube shocks able to be tuned for more bump compliance/less compression damping when rebuilt? @Crikeymike

 

When rebuilt, yes, they can be tuned differently.

 

Great. Is that an in house only service or can someone buy the rebuild kit and rebuild themselves? Cost?

 

Dobinsons in Miami will be doing it. You'll have to contact them for pricing, I'm not sure what it is yet.

 

Ok. Thx Mike

 

Hi there @Crikeymike ! I'm new to all this suspension lifts topic and don't know or understand too many things. So I apologize in advance if i'm asking dumb questions.
I got a set of 285/70/17s and to fit them in I need/wan't to get a complete 3" kit for my tacoma.

My Tacoma TRD Sport is currently stock, but in the near future I plan to install a roof rack, front bumber, and a bed rack with a hardshell RTT. I like go camping and trailing sometimes, still i'm not too much of a hardcore offr-oader (yet).

Basically, I want to get a suspension lift that lasts for a long time, that rides smoothly (at least in the city), that also will keep riding smoothly after adding the weight of all the accessories, and gives me that off-road capability when required.

I think I may get this kit:
https://www.dobinsonsdirect.com/pro...tacoma-4x4-double-cabs?variant=32383173361773

But I have many questions considering my needs:

• What difference would make between C59-352 and C59-354?
• If I go with L59-112R or L59-111R rated for heavier loads in the rear, will I get a stiffer ride until I add weight in the back?
• Is it worth going with L59-110R and after adding the bed rack and RTT, upgrading to the L59-111R or L59-112R?
• What difference would make going with either MRA59-A941 or MRA59-A940?
• Do I really need to replace the UCA?
• Is the SC59-001 top mount needed? I was hoping the kit came assembled.

Can someone shed a little bit of light so that I make the most appropriate purchase?

Thank you all!

 

Hey bud,

You might want to check it out on my website, as I give a better explanation of each item and what it does and is suited for:
https://exitoffroad.com/product/dob...-kit-for-2005-to-2020-tacoma-4x4-double-cabs/

The first thread of this post also shows a lot of the differences between the options you're looking at.

352/354, different heights but same spring rate.
You need to match the added weight you have on your truck with the correct springs to get the lift height, otherwise yes, it will ride rougher and taller than desired.
The 111R springs is what you'll need. With the rack and RTT and also trying to get more like 3" of lift, those are the best option. You don't need the 112R's.
Yes, to properly lift and align the vehicle, UCA's are required.
The top mounts are an optional add-on, as my website shows, so that you can get the parts delivered assembled making it easier on you. Not everyone needs that, so it's an optional add-on.
You would only run the long travel rear MRA shocks if you want the most travel you can get, but you also must extend your brake lines and bump stops to run those.

 

Great questions. Do you plan on doing the cab mount chop? Otherwise, you may need 255 skinny 33's, or 275 tires.

Is your truck a double cab short bed? And, any plans to add a winch bumper?

Edit, oh ya, yes on the Upper Control Arms for 3" lift.

 

Thank you very much! So basically if I go with 354, it'll ride taller and stiffer until I add more weight in the front, correct?
Thanks for the link, many questions are being answered as I read more.

I'll keep looking at your site to decide what I'll do!

Thanks!

Thanks!
Mine is a DCSB, winch is not in my list yet, but if I get a front bumper I'd probably go with one that has the option to add a winch.

And yep, i'll be doing CMC. On my previous 2016 DCSB I was able to manage by simply reducing the area with a grinder. But this time, by using this tire size I think CMC can't be avoided.

 

Sounds like this isn't your first rodeo. I've nothing but good to say about Mike @Crikeymike and the Dobinsons product in general. Especially the MRA shocks. Just make sure you get the front sway bar reservoir mount brackets. And, I'm sure you get it, but the 111's will feel stiff when the bed is unloaded as they're meant to carry a constant load.

 

Yes, that's right. The spring rates are all based on added weight, so without the weight, it will be taller and firmer.

 

or since you're off-roading, get rid of your front sway bar and actually enjoy the ride.

 

Hey @Crikeymike - Have the 112's been redesigned to address this yet?

My 2015 (2nd gen) Double cab short bed (V6/Automatic) "empty weight" with a Vagabond Drifter camper (~300lbs), Bedrug, fridge, maxtrax, rock sliders (120lbs), aluminum front skid, 32" tires and full size spare is about 5300 pounds. My full weight (which I will usually be under, but once or twice a year, I'll be this full) is barely under 6000lbs with a full gas tank. Do you recommend the 111 or 112 leaf pack for this? Specs on the truck say it was 4220 pounds curb weight.

 

Yeah, a long time ago.

I would recommend the 112's, see how they go empty and if you like it enough. If not, you can pull a leaf out to reduce the height and spring rate, but with your loaded weight, you'll probably need that in there again.

 

I have a 2021 access cab with a MT. It has an aluminum lumber rack(~115lbs), hiliner canopy(~200Lbs), and a plywood bed and drawer(~100Lbs) at all times, plus tools or other gear most of the time. I also have a 3-4000lb 6x10 tool trailer I move around sometimes.

I have debated adding a couple springs and re springing my factory springs...but I have heard conflicting advice on that. I hear that AAL's are not great for load. I am still considering airbags. This is my truck that I use for work as a contractor/carpenter. I also use it as my daily driver. I do a fair amount of driving on rough roads as I live right at the edge of the national forest and spend a lot of time on all types of rough forest roads....but I don't "wheel"

From all the reading I have done i think i want to upgrade the rear leaf springs. I want to avoid having to change out the front suspension if possible. I have heard that i may need to put a 1" block up front at minimum. Which Dobinson spring pack seems right my rig...the 112? If so how much lift does that add...and would i need to lift the front considering the weight in my truck. If i did re do the front....what would be the most cost effective way besides just adding a block.

I do think a little lift looks sweet...but i don't want to get carried away and cause problems with other parts of the truck.

Thanks in advance

 

Assuming your truck is 4x4? By any chance did you take the before and after measurements from center of hub to bottom of wheel well/fender?

 

It's a 4x4. I didn't take any measurements, but i did take a peak at clearance to pump stops unloaded. It is easily a few inches closer now

 

If you take the current measurements at each wheel it might help @Crikeymike determine the sag. That will help with determining what springs are required to bring it back to stock height, plus lift. My personal gut feeling is the 111 leafs, with a prescribed spring and strut up front. Airbags for the live load and tool trailer. GL!

 

Blocks/coil spacers are never worth it.

This right here is solid advice