Does anyone know if the top of the billstein 4600 stud is hex or sae?

I having trouble getting the nut off my rear 4600's. The top of the shock stud is either hex or sae or maybe even torx. I'm not sure. Does anyone else know? I'm going to try using a long arm hex or torx to hold the shock in place, so it doesn't spin while I wrench the nut off. Thanks!

 

I don't know, but I tried everything and finally gave up and cut the tops off of my OE shocks to remove them. I doubt a ~4mm hex key, etc, is going to work in holding them from spinning if that vise grip didn't. If you're trying to save the shocks, then grind thru the outside of the nut until it's almost to the stud- and that still might not work. If not, then cut the tops off as I did.

 

Yep, just cut it off

 

You’re probably right but I thought if I buy an overasized hex wrench with a 12 inch arm it might work. I don’t own an angle grinder.

 

Real Bilstein 4600s are a 5mm or 8mm hex key on those rear shocks. I have it written on my shocks but it’s snowing outside so I’m choosing not to go verify…..

 

The length of the hex key arm is irrelevant as the recess in the stud is going to be the limiting factor and it will strip.

If you choose to cut, you want to cut thru the stud at the bottom of the nut, and not the shock absorber body, for obvious reasons. Angle grinders are cheap at HF. I use a steel Lenox diamond cutting disc as I value my face. Either way, use a face shield and not just safety glasses regardless of the type of cutting wheel you use.

$17 LENOX Tools Cutting Wheel, Diamond Edge, 4-1/2" (1972921)

LENOX Tools Cutting Wheel, Diamond Edge, 4-1/2-Inch (1972921) - Amazon.com

 

15 bucks at harbor freight

 

And it's a tool that will come in handy time and time again!

 

The hex hole on top of the stud will simply round out.

You can use a cutoff wheel and cut a slit in the nut. Stop just before you penetrate to the threads. Split the nut with a hammer and chisel.

Another option is to use a nut splitter like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-Automotive-Nut-Cracker/1000595029



Most shops in northern states will go directly to an acetylene torch and liquify the nut. Saves time.

 

Do you think I could run it from the outlet in the truck bed? I can’t do this at my apartment building unfortunately

 

Think the nut splitter will actually work? I may try that since it’s the least intrusive.

 

^I've used this method to remove a buddy's rusted OME rear shocks. Lubricate the nut splitter screw threads with grease. Use an impact wrench to drive it.

 

no, too much power

they make cordless ones, ryobi is probably only $50 or so on sale