Does this look like a bad CV joint?

Lol ok I know by now your thinking umm DUH?


.. am i right?? LOL

Any way, Im not sure whats broken thats the thing. I couldn't see any "tears" in the boot but it's gotta be coming from there.

I was wheeling today, had it in 4 a few times, did a few small jumps here and there and Im guessing with me OME885x coils and 5100's (full 3 inch lift)
It put too much stress on the CV


does anybody know If replacing the boot/grease would be a good enough fix, say at least for a few more runs or until I get a stronger replacement aftermarket front axle?

This is the drivers side front axle btw


Thanks for your help TW, I wouldn't know a damn thing if it weren't for you.

 

Reserved---


P.S. If that was the fix, I would inspect the spindles to make sure there's no grinding.

 

bump bump, bumpity bump bump!

 

CV Could be OK and just slinging grease. I would have it checked at least.

 

Bump for Brad's truck! He can't miss our next wheelin' trip!

 

it's probably just the boot

 

Look for rips in the fins

 

Probably just tore the boot. They are replaceable

 

So I took it to a local shop today, they said they could replace my axle (they also do solid axle swaps!) for $274 OEM and $222 for a DTA Axle. The DTA has a warranty and surprisingly the OEM does not.

I asked about just replacing the boot since, well, she does have a good 90K on her and she's only an 08
guess that would cost me MORE since essentially they are doing the same thing (taking off the axle and replacing the boot)

That being said.... &^FADYDI&^F@E*SADILUGSAIUPU(QR&T*QWR&*OQW*&R%^*(QWE^


WHAT? Am I really out about 200 somethin bucks right now? There's gotta be another way, somebody cheaper. I love working on my truck but I don't have the tools or equipment to do it! I did when I was in texas and their was a local auto shop that rented out bay's.

What do I do? This is seriously becoming a PITA -_____-

 

The 2nd gen CV's are bombproof.. talking about the CV joints themselves. For a shop to recommend a whole complete unit well I just don't know. You can replace the boots yourself ..fairly easy and well save you a ton of cashola. You can also get replacement boots from toyota, napa, or even allpro Offroad.

 

it is difficult to see that anything is broken in that pic. Given all the grease, it would seem the boot is leaking somehow. 200-300 bucks sounds cheap for shop work imo...but hey I am in another country.

 

Try replacing your clamps. That's $10 bucks compared to $200+ like you have been quoted. You may have lost too much grease though for that to work. I dunno if you can just repack them or not though.

 

Here is another option:

Get yourself a SPLIT BOOT KIT for your CV Joint. Now I know the experienced among you will scream and cry how it's not going to last, etc etc. but hear me out.
1. The kit has a cv joint boot that is split along the edge. It has a tongue and groove joint that you glue together after you wrap the axle.
2. The trick with a successful install is make sure that you clean all the exposed grease before you remove your old boot. Then you will use some instant glue/rubber welding agent that comes in the kit. Don't be stingy with this! use tape or zip ties to hold the boot together and let it dry completely.
3. You remove the boot by cutting it. Since you aren't really sure if the boot has failed, the kit has the two replacement clamps you need, and it has a package of bearing grease. If you cut the clamps and slide the boot down, inspect it thoroughly. Splits can hide deep in the gooves of the boot, and only get exposed when your suspension does an extreme flex (like during a jump) If your boot is 100% then reuse it with the clamps, after packing as much of the new grease you can into the joint, rotating the wheel as you go.
4. If your boot isn't 100% then use the split boot to replace it. Do NOT use brake cleaner or any solvent to clean the joint. You can't get enough grease in it to overcome the solvent. Just wipe off the excess.
5. You can install the kit with wire cutters and a knife. A jack and jackstands may be handy, but not necessary.
6. Do not even bother doing anything here if you hear any clicking or feel any vibration at the steering wheel during full lock turning. If your cv joint is bad then it's time for that axle.

And I agree, 200$ for that job would be a deal around me, but I'd still do it myself.

 

Brad, can you drive it until next weekend? I'll be in Tahoe this weekend, but I should be free Saturday the 8th, during the day. I have most if not all the tools necessary for the job, but you'll have to use floor jacks instead of a full lift. Let me know, I'm willing to help you out.

Just pick up a new boot, or maybe even a set so you can do both sides at once.

Let me know.

 

Im going to order a new axle from AUTOZONE for $64 and replace it at The Traveler's house this weekend. Wish me luck guys and thanks for the advice!

 

Good luck with that...but before you actually install the new shaft, compare the degree of movement the new joints have as compared to the oem toyota shaft. It is a lot less and will bind sooner then the toyota cv joints. If you do any type of offroading that has your front suspension flexing there will be a strong chance of you breaking the outer cv joint.

 

Clarification....I'll be in Lake Tahoe this weekend, so it'll have to be NEXT weekend