Does this look right?

Sure!

This is on my build thread, though I don't think I went into a ton of detail. I'm sure there are other methods, but this worked for me.


It's a little time consuming, and if you're like me, you'll get some weird looks from your neighbors when doing it, lol.

You can see in the pic I've already done one side. The color is just ash and left over semi liquid rubber that will get cleaned with a wire wheel on a dremel...

Start by popping off the knurled caps from the bushings (you'll re-use them so be careful). Then I carefully drilled a bunch of holes in the rubber to remove at least some material. Then get out your butane or map gas torch and light'er up.

I ended up doing a series of burn and scoops, where I'd let it burn for a while, put the flame out and scoop out the melty bits with various sticks or that square rod you can see hiding in the pic. Eventually you'll get to the point where you'll be able to press out the inner sleeve (just use a vice and some sockets), which will really speed up the process. Once all, or most of the rubber was out, I cleaned up the outer sleeve with a wire wheel on my dremel. The inner sleeve on the poly bushing is what moves, so it doesn't have to be perfectly smooth or anything, but I still got it as good as I could.

By then, you should be able to just push the bushings in. Maybe use a vice or a C-clamp to help, but it shouldn't need a lot of pressure.

Read the directions on what to lube, I honestly can't remember if you're supposed to lube the outer bushing before pushing it in the LCA, maybe not...

 

You can also drill a bushing full of holes all the way through and just twist them out.

 

I just use a drill bit walk the bit around the edge and they fall out it only takes a minute

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P7PvxtVLTKs

 

eh, I don't know if it's really bitter to report they don't always ship what they advertise for sale or have the means to make sure what they get isn't counterfeit. Why would they be so much cheaper than NAPA?

 

If there is one part that you SHOULD buy OEM,

it’s the ball joints,
Get the OEM kit that comes with the new bolts too.

Looks like you put the old bolts back on.

You want new bolts when you do the ball joints


The ball joint goes out on you at 50 mph you probably will flip your truck.

The only safe ball joint and that will last is the OEM

 

That's highly debatable (which is why we still see threads on this after 20+ years).

OEM is not devinely infallible. Let's remember that OEM had a recall on the balljoints, and the design itself is the weakest link, qa/qc issues just make them wear out sooner.

Your best chance at having ball joints that don't fail catastrophically are the ones you inspect often and replace when you notice things like a torn/leaking boot.

 

That works if you're removing the entire bushing, outer sleeve and all. If you want to install the poly bushings, you'll pretty royally scratch up the outer sleeve to which the poly bushing will mate with. So probably best to avoid this method for that.

 

I put a set of moogs on and they lasted 6 months, I guess you can put on whatever you want.
I have put 610,000 miles on my truck and I will only use OEM ball joints. Just my feedback and replaced them every 100,000 miles regardless And I’ve never had one fail except the moogs.

Just get OEM ones and don’t be this guy trying to save 50.00

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lower-ball-joint-failure.456057/

 

Mine lasted 6 years, 30k+ miles.

Go figure. We both have opposing anecdotes.

There are folks who've had OEM ones last just about as long. There are also arguably hundreds, if not thousands of people rolling around these streets of ours across the country with everything from store brand ball joints to Moogs, to 555's, too. But we don't typically hear about the ones that don't fail, because, well, they didn't fail. There are even people who have 300k miles on their non-warrantyed ball joints. *most* of the failures I've seen are more than likely user error (saw one recently where the bolts failed) and lack of preventative maintenance.

Look, I'm not saying Moogs are the best, far from it. But I'm also not saying that OEM is the only way to guarantee you won't have a failure.

Toyota is literally the one who created the problem in the first place with the shitty design and had subsequent recall of their own, so you'll have to excuse me if I don't bow down and suckle at the OEM teet in this case.

I adhere to the get the best you can afford mantra, and what makes sense for you and makes you comfortable. If that's OEM, that's great! Just don't ignore them for the next 100k because "OEM is super reliable."

 

So the other side ended up the same way, so the hole on the aftermarket control arms are not good at all. I will probably end up replacing the bushings in my oem control arm and returning the parts store arms. But damn, it was so much work changing out everything in the front end. And no I re used the camber bolts, mine were fine

 

The bolts are actually designed for a one time use even though they can be used again.

You will see people here that have had the bolts snap in two from stress so it’s something one should do.

 

The ball joint failure can be from a snapping bolt..

There is a reason they sell these as a kit form too

 

Yes I used new ones for the ball joint, I was talking about the lca camber bolts

 

Why not check if original ball joint taper fits snug in new arm. I bet 10 dollars American they don't.

edit: Wait, I said that basackwards. I bet the new Moogs fit the same in the original tapered hole.

 

Holy sheeeeet. That looks WAY easier than what I've gone through! I'm gonna have to remember this, I was wondering how he was gonna get that last ring out after the bushing was pulled..... I'm impressed

 

Mfers.... Sorry to hear that man. Kinda unbelievable that they can allow an incorrectly machined part make it out of their factory. Like that was just blatantly skipped over during quality checks at their (Chinese) factory. Like you say, a lot of work and for naught. That kinda stuff drives me crazy too

 

Those are too brutal of a ride for this old man. I'd be putting in new OEM rubber bushings. Don't need em yet

 

You did right on the LBJ my man. I am a changed man, I'VE SEEN THE LIGHT AND MY PRIOR ERRORS IN ACCEPTING THE FALSE GOD OF LBJs, 555!
For reals though I'm OEM only on the LBJs, so you're okay

 

Hopefully it's tolerable for you man. Many here run em. I'm just saying since I see beforehand from others posts here I can plan accordingly, you know? I know what they cost, I know their pros and cons, yada yada. No surprises and keep my expectations met

 

Nah, just compensate by throwing some King coilovers in there. Smooths it right out.

Like with anything, there's pros and cons. I wouldn't say the ride was stiffer when I did mine, but maybe "harsher" is a good term? There was a minor increase in the road vibrations that transfer through the steering wheel. The steering was like it's on rails, though.

I'm betting with certain tire/shock combinations you'd probably never notice.