Doing front brakes, calipers, rotors for first time

Doing front brakes, calipers, rotors for first time by myself. Watched a few youtube tutorials, anything I should be aware of before I start this to make the job easier?

already have stainless steal break lines. Not doing tundra upgrade. Parts already delivered from rockauto.

4x4 v6.

Cheers

 

It's just a matter of removing the two bolts that hold each caliper in place and disconnecting the brake line. I've done it many times over the years. The hardest part is putting the wheels back on (whew!) and the bleeding when you're done replacing parts (brake bleeding, I mean ).

When reassembling, first put the calipers on, then the rotors, then insert the pads, then bleed the system.

 

I don't think you can mount the calipers before putting the new rotors on...

Rotors, calipers, pads, pins, dust shield, keeper pin.

Just a dab of disc brake grease on the backs of the pads where they interface with the pistons, and on the pins.

 

You're right. It's been a long time, and I have a short memory, and it's gettin' shorter by the day.

 

I like to use a wire brush on the hub where the rotor will mate. Make sure it’s clean there. Even smear some anti seize on the hub before installing the rotor. I also like to use new caliper pins. Read up on proper brake pad bedding before you drive it.

 

https://www.wagnerbrake.com/technical/technical-tips/how-to-do-complete-brake-job.html

 

It's pretty straight forward. I did the tundra upgrade last month and it only took 2-3 hours. My advice would be to do that brake lines last. So pull the calipers and leave the hoses connected and let them hang to the side (technically you should support them with a zip tie so you don't damage the hoses but who cares if you're replacing them anyhow), then pop on the new rotor, caliper and pads and the new line installed on the caliper side. Then you can quickly disconnect the old line and connect the new one without loosing much fluid as the final step before flushing and bleeding. Make sure the reservoir is full to the brim to minimize the risk of getting air in the system.

I also put a piece of syran wrap over the reservoir under the cap. Not sure about our system but most vehicles have an air hole in the cap. The plastic will seal the hole and reduce the ability of the fluid to go down when you open the lines.

Also squirt a little PB blaster on the line fittings before you start.

 

Quality flare nut wrenchs is a plus.

 

Grease the caliper rods!!!!!
The ones on the outside of the caliper with those 2 accordion boots
Common skipped step
(Didn’t watch posted vid…..hope they showed the same)

 

Do one side at a time, that way you have the other side as a reference to look at if needed. That's the way I've always done mine.

 

whats the keeper pin?

 

The 2 pins that hold the pad in the caliper

 

Keeper pin was the wrong word. I was trying to describe the tiny thing that goes in both of the pins so they don't come out. The FSM calls it a "Clip":

 

Make sure you don't let the brake fluid run out. It will make bleeding a little more difficult. I like to let it gravity bleed while starting on the other side.

 

my brake pads came with 2 different types of clips (4 in total) I'm just using the two of them tho (the ones described in ur graphic) as thats what I've seen in all the tutorials.

will leave these ones out

the other pins look like this:

 

i bought the one man brake bleeder kit: https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/...FxQwwSJbxoC52QQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds#store=622

 

What brand of calipers did you get
Those look nice n clean!

 

Hey Skeezik and Andy...long time no hear ..

I have always followed Eric O. From South Main Auto youtube channel when it comes to brake jobs.

I've done my Taco front disc brakes and my former MGM disc brakes all around and never had any problems nor sqeeking or noise. I like how he either wire brushes the calipers and how he uses a white silicon grease underneath the brackets to reduce rust. Also how he lubes up the glide pins with the sealeramic. And inspects and replaces the little accordion boots if ripped while making sure that there is no air in the glide pin tube. Cl
Check out his channel for tips and guidance.

 

just the cheapo ones on rockauto

POWER STOP L1784 Caliper(8708.30.9920) CAD$ 103.92 CAD$ 0.00 1 CAD$ 103.92

 

I have the same ones I bought the powerstop brake kit from RA. Rotors, pads and calipers. With a 30 dollar rebate from powerstop. Very satisfied if you hold them side by side to oem mine were exactly the same and they perform flawless. Good choice