doing the stereo mod to the double cab 2010 with pics and prices (write up)

Ok , here is the dilemma . Looking for a complete system to replace my factory NON jbl with 6 disc changer . My truck is a 2010 sport 4x4 with double cab . I have left side steering wheel controls and will be adding right side steering wheel controls for the aftermarket deck

My plans so far are new head unit , new amplified front speakers and a subwoofer behind one of the rear seats

This is going to be a full write up with pics and research for a $2000 budget .I dont care to be loud ,I am in this for clarity and good sound . PM me if you desire

DO NOT PURCHASE FROM TACO_TUNES without a tracking number . It took over 1 month to get my stuff .

Why does every speaker manufacturer say their speakers sound just as good as other speakers that are double the price ?

Special thanks to Manethon for the help . Any questions ?? he is a great go to guy to talk with .
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/member.php?u=114161

I think I am going to try his recommendations and give the Mercury Kristel series K62 a go. They were just made available to you and me in North America and have won many awards overseas for a long time .I am sure Manethon can tell you more .

here is the website http://www.mercurycaraudio.com/

More info here http://www.eaudio.com.my/index.php?ws=showproducts&products_id=512618&cat=Car Speaker&subcat=Mercury#openproducts
and here http://www.emmanet.info/2014/01/21/mercury-signs-global-sponsorship/


Specs on the K62,s
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Opening the box for the first peek at the Mercury Krystal series K62,s .
Shipping took about 10 days and the speakers are packaged very well in a larger box full of bubble guard .
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Here is what you see as you open the box . Instructions .....
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Removing the cover unveils the beauty of these bad-ass speakers .
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After removing the plastic , I took a few pictures of the size and build quality . These K62,s are very well built and absolutely beautiful . I cant wait to hear them . Sorry about the blurry photos . I was in such a rush to open the box , I used my phone instead of my camera . I will post up some cleaner pics when I do the install .
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This pic shows the depth .
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And this pic shows the covers along with the width .
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This picture shows the rear of the speaker .
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A general idea of the rear width .
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Wiring terminals .
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Lets have a look at these amazing tweeters .
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Here are some pictures of the crossovers . They match the H500 amp with the brushed aluminum finish and they are fairly heavy.
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I am going with the recomemded H500 amp . The H500 is a Hybrid class ab+D
4x90wrms@4ohms Class ab or 260x2@4ohms
1x500wrms@2ohm Class D
15.36 x 9.12 x 2.
http://www.ec21.com/product-details/H500---5-Channel-Hybrid--7138451.html
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Lets have a better look at the H500 Hybird amp .

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Opening the box for the first time shows fairly good shipping protection. Considering the box the amp came in was a little squashed , everything looks to be in good shape .
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18 feet of Amplifier wiring . When I opened the box I thought I purchased garden hose . Its huge but recommended .
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This pic gives reference to a beer cap so you can see how big this power wire to the amp actually is . You can purchase here or speak with Manethon http://www.droppinhzcaraudio.com/brands/Shok-Industries.html

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The ground wire is short due to where I am mounting the amp in the rear .Take notice to the beer cap

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I still have the factory speakers .

Managed to find some Ram mat from a member on here who was selling 80 square feet along with some foam .


So far this looks like the sub I am after . 8 inch at this point in time .
http://www.wooferwarehouse.com/Shok-Industries-8-Triton-Subwoofer_p_486.html


Specs on this sub
2x 40 oz magnet
high temperate 2" round wire coil
400w rms

Fs: 46.764hz
qms: 3.514
qes: 0.508
qts: 0.444
SPL: 85dB
VAS:0.32 cub ft
Xmax: 15mm

mounting depth:

121mm .
This thing is heavy and very well packed when it comes in the box . I compared it to my Pioneer 8 inch sub and the pioneer which was much more expensive doesnt come close to the build quality of this Shokwave
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Complete depth

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Side view showing quality connections . There are also two connections on the other side

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Magnet Depth
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Rear of sub

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Trying to keep this below the $2000 budget is difficult when you are trying not to deal with expensive shipping and USD funds .
If you have a system in your double cab and you believe it sounds great or better than factory , could you pass along your recommendations .
Been reading for 3 weeks and still trying to decide .Looking into a Mr Marve system but I live on the other side of the map . ( Crazy Canuck ) and our dollar is worth 70 cents when I buy items from the states
Any assistance would be appreciated .


OK . I went with this for a new receiver http://www.amazon.ca/JVC-KW-V50BT-Multimedia-Player-Bluetooth/dp/B00JS4ADI8



kwv50bt.pdf The PDF is the JVC owners manual
If you own this deck , check for latest firmware and update before install or during install http://www.jvc.net/cs/car/firmware/2014/kwv50bt/index.html

ADDING BLUETOOTH FUNCTIONS
I already have the left side volume controls but my factory 6 disc doesn't have Bluetooth .
Considering I am upgrading to a better receiver with Bluetooth I decided to purchase the right side switch and cable . The JVC receiver comes with a microphone
Here is the new right side Bluetooth switch and cable. The part # for the cable is 84204-5810.
The cable was $30.86 available here . NOTE - They will email you stating that these two parts do not fit your Tacoma .Dont worry ! They both fit great http://toyotapartznet.com/ . Make sure your battery is disconnected for at least 1/2 hour
The cable below plugs directly into the left side steering wheel switch .


The actual Bluetooth switch is part # 84244-35030-80 . Paid $70.75


With the new components installed on the steering wheel , I needed to make them work with the new head unit and went to Taco Tunes for help . You can get the controller cheaper elsewhere but Taco Tunes saves you from cutting and splicing additional wiring .
Watch the video for proof .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Sas1jTJ-gw&feature=player_embedded

The picture below shows the ASWC steering wheel controller from Taco Tunes .This is needed if you already have steering wheel controls in order to interface with the new head unit .
$70 bucks plus shipping for the dedicated Tacoma wiring harness and the dedicated steering wheel controller ....No wires to splice !!!

Here are the instructions for the steering controller wiring
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http://*********.com/car-audio-video...rol-manual.pdf
Here is the AWSC pdf from taco tunes http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/att...1&d=1424155657

here is the Toyota Tacoma specific instructions to program the AWSC
http://contentdocs.installernet.com/documents/vehicle/10957.pdf



And here is what it looks like when you are done .
There is a complete write up that I used to do the Bluetooth mod . Click here for many details
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/au...ed-steering-wheel-audio-controls-my-08-a.html



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Where can I find one of these with HDMI and USB ?


OK , so just because I have an MHL receiver with a functioning HDMI DVD player doesn't mean you can watch movies without a little cheater .Cost was $ 25 .72 including shipping . You can purchase the parking brake bypass here
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/331256893467?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

To find the parking brake wire harness look under the dash. See the parking brake pedal assembly? At the top of the pedal assembly there is a switch with a green wire coming from it. Thats the "harness". Splice the wire from the stereo to this wire. When the parking brake pedal is depressed the switch contacts close putting the wire to ground. The wire is there to complete the circuit for the parking brake light on the dashboard.



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Next I needed a double din dash kit . After a lot of research , I went with the Scoshce
available here. Cost was $38.44 with shipping and duty and it comes with the connectors needed to wire up the new reciever http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Toyota-Tacoma-Double-Din-Car-Stereo-Radio-Installation-Dash-Mount-Kit-Harrness/391015145578?_trksid=p3984.c100023.m2049&_trkparms=ao=1&asc=20140529150349&meid=d9a84486cc1f42e183047a8aa2e2c66d&pid=100023&
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I suggest spending some time on watching this video as it will save you time and grief .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PPLlpvB_4PU
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Total cost to this day
1- new JVC receiver $445.60
2- Right side steering wheel control and cable $141.00 including taxes duty and shipping
3- Ramm matt sound deadening $180
4- ASWC steering wheel controller from Taco Tunes $72.00
5- Scosche double din dash kit $38.44
6- Parking brake bypass $25.72
7- Shok Triton 8 inch sub $135.00 plus shipping $42.00
8-power wire $81.00
9- Two Rca cables long enough to go from the receiver to the rear seat $78.00 . If you plan to amp behind the seat , give yourself some extra . Go with 7 foot cables
10- H500 amplifier with a/b/d technology
11- Mercury Krystal series speakers with crossovers
Grand total today - $1238.00


This is as far as I am today 3/30/2015

 

Do you have factory blue tooth, or are you adding it? Just wondering, I have a 2010 SR5 Access Cab that I'm trying to add it to.

 

Im just getting the quotes ready for you you will be very happy

Ill most likely call you tomorrow evening... does that work for you

 

darn rite !!

This guys post really helps
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/au...eadening-custom-doors-deck-amp-completed.html

and here http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/366041-jl-audio-focal-ezq-install.html

I just did the right side blue tooth controls on my 2010 .
I already have the left side steering wheel controls .
I have a factory non jbl 6 disc receiver .
With this said , the Bluetooth controls wont work if you didnt have a factory bluetooth receiver .If you keep the factory radio , you need the blue logic controller http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/aud...stall-how.html

However , if you are installing an aftermarket receiver with bluetooth , the right side controls will function fine as long as you purchase the Aswc controller and hopefully your new receiver came with a michrophone .
aswc-toyota-tacoma-steering-wheel-control-manual.pdf (814.2 KB, 1 views)
34201.pdf (609.6 KB, 2 views) This is the installation manual

http://www.amazon.com/Metra-ASWC-Ste.../dp/B0039H2W66

 

Here is the part numbers for the sail panels . Not sure if these are the same as 2012 and up
R. 67491-04050
L. 67492-04050

Here is the mod to mirror your Iphone to your 2010-and up receiver . Turns your FACTORY receiver into your phone .......with the ability to watch movies on the fly . I dont have an Iphone but thought it would be a good idea to place this here http://www.adcmobile.com/avity-01/

 

Removing the plastic cargo storage carriers from behind the rear seats .
Fold your seats down and remove 3 bolts on each cargo carrier .Remove the carrier from behind the drivers side first .Carefully pull the carrier outwards and you will feel the grommets pop out . You may need a long thin pry-bar to get the bottom of the carrier out .You do not have to remove the rear seats or any seat bolts to get these out . One thing I noticed when the seats are back up in position , they rattle after the storage compartments are removed . I believe this can be fixed by bending the seat latch slightly . Looked around for a write up on how these are removed but couldn't find much information ....so here you go .
UPDATED WRITE UP here https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ihatetacomass-audio-build.375727/#post-10434785

.The picture below shows both storage compartments removed in preparation for sound deadening .Notice how the floor of the cab is also lacking in any insulation as well .
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This picture shows the drivers side storage compartment removed
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This picture shows the longer passenger side compartment removed .
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Starting the sound deadening. A special note : I removed 2 of the child seat restraints on the passenger side . If you look closely ,I left 1 on the drivers side just in case someone needs to strap in a toddler when I sell the truck . To get them off , I used a 3/8 drill bit and drilled through the rivets .

 

X2…but mine is a '05 DC that I would like to add it to

 

building the sub box .There is an under seat write up here for you guys that would prefer not ripping out the storage compartments behind your seats .https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/under-seat-subwoofer-club-ussc.234155/


Length 27 1/2 inches long
bottom width 7 inches wide X 27 1/2 inches long
lower panel is 9 1/2 X 27 inches long
Upper rear panel is 5 inches wide X 27 1/2 long
This works out to 1701 vb inches cubed

I will chuck a schematic up here when I am done .
I used 1/2 inch birch to make the sub box .
Here is a subwoofer space calculator http://www.mobileinformationlabs.com/HowTo-1WooferBox-cal_explained_1.htm
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This pic shows the 30 degree angle used to achieve 1.5 cubic feet .
Here are the specs on this kick ass 8 inch sub.
Specs on this sub
2x 40 oz magnet
high temperate 2" round wire coil
400w rms

Fs: 46.764hz
qms: 3.514
qes: 0.508
qts: 0.444
SPL: 85dB
VAS:0.32 cub ft
Xmax: 15mm
. I built the box tuff to avoid vibrations . With the sub in place she weighs 48 pounds . Its braced very well using carpenters glue , gussets , L brackets and silicone . The inside of the sub box has a layer of fiberglass and Ram-matt to seal the seams along with a 1 inch mdf border sealed with wood screws every inch . Spent a better part of the day on this critter . I can only hope it sounds good once i figure out the tuning.
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This picture shows the 3 inch port facing the drivers side as recommended. My plan is to finish the tuning. There is a chunk of 3 inch abs pipe with an adapter on the drivers side that is completely adjustable in order to fine tune this home made box , then cover the sub box and amplifier supports with an appropriate rug to make it look great when I am done .
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Fresh rug makes it look great
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Side view
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Best I can do for you is give a little insight on the subs. I have 2 12" Shok subs, and they're awesome! As for installation, it was complicated. The 12's are 6 7/8" deep, so building a standard box was out. What I did was cut 2 side pieces, roughed in the section around the middle brace, then fine tuned with a dremel for a tight fit. Top and bottom pieces requires a bevel on the outside edge, to fit tight to the back wall. 5 braces, drilled to the back wall supply bracing for the front baffle. Silicone all around the inside edges, topped with a couple layers of fiberglass seal the beast. It is built into the truck, and won't come out easy, I'm sure. With the 12" s, I'm limited to sealed, at the time, manethon didn't have 8's. Had I went with 8's, the box would have been easier to build, and I would have gone ported, for a little more low end performance, I still might, haven't decided yet.

 

Thanks for the analogy Zman ! Your video was excellent .https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3OhxGO8MTg
My plan is a single 8 in a home built box with a 4 inch flared port .I will post pictures and videos when I start the build . I really enjoyed your subwoofer install http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/au...ire-some-thinking-but-im-going-make-work.html

 

Very nice write up, I went with the Alpine INE-W940 indash GPS & Bluetooth, now I thinking of upgrading and going with a set of focal speakers

 

So we did some more testing yesterday,
We used a 1 inch spacer and the seat angle barely changed but we gained a ton of extra airspace
1.5 inch spacer gives just about 5 inches of top depth below the cross member

 

Subd

 

pix pls

 

Assuming you are talking about the doors, it's not just the cross member you are trying to avoid, but the window in it's down position. I'm not sure how far down the window comes.

 

Not talking about doors. Talking about the seat backs for the back seat. If you space out the bar the seat back locks to, you gain extra airspace behind the back seat.

 

Bump and reserved for build page.


Quote:
Originally Posted by gearcruncher
installing the H500 and the Krystal series speakers with a factory stereo ?
I dont plan to do this , but I would like to add the information within my post so guys who want to keep the factory receiver will have the option of purchasing the same equipment I am using . Can you help ?

Here is how i would line things up

Budget : Entry Stock deck no amp setup, after market deck no amp
Revolution series R62 Smart series, they are fantastic on deck only power and good up to about 80wrms. Could also match with C62

Budget amplified : Stock deck+ LOC
H500 or Classic series amps ( mcr 4200, Mcr 800.1, or the MCr t4080
H500 + 1 triton 8 ported or
Mcr 800.1 + 2 triton 8 sealed
Can also get the Coax for the rear doors but will need a custom built out trim ring and possibly minor rear door mod

Mid budget various combo : After market deck
H500, mercury c62 or mixed upper budget k62

Mid-high SQ budget after market deck
K62 mids, Mercury ms90.4 bridget, ms1500.1 +2 triton

High End SQ + Active processor
K62 + maestro full range / k63 Mercury ms90.4 bridged, ms1500.1 +2 triton

Upper high end + active processor ( this is over 3000usd)
Krystal series amps k4 and k2
Mercury competition II
__________________
TEAM SHOK-ER
Sound deadener packages
Sound stage and Bass
Tacoma packages

 

This is going to sound absolutely amazing, Make sure you spend the time on the small details as well as the big to get that perfect install and sound. Tuning may take some time but SO worth it in the end.

 

Im really happy you approve, but i was never worried that you won't

Just wait till you hear these perform! Prepare to be in awe

 

Any idea when you will be starting this build ? Have you sources some a-pillar pods ?
I was thinking if you do, the driver a-pillar most likely has 2 pod slots, maybe you can toss a volt meter in there for general purpose