Dome light LED bulb that actually works right.

Agreed. I worked for them in the late 80s when they were transitioning from the "brown" to the gray "tech" store style.
In those days, they still had multiple 4ft sections dedicated to components, and a fair stock of each.
They started falling apart in the 90s and by 2000 were worthless for parts. What they carried was low quality crap, but it didn't matter because they rarely stocked more than two of each item, but never actually had them in stock because the parts were always in the wrong bins so they never got ordered.

 

Just got my 100ohm 3 watt resistors in the mail today. The guy at Talon was super quick to ship them. I'm going to hopefully get around to putting them in tomorrow. They certainly don't look like the little pansy ones that RadioShack sells.

 

Got them soldered on. I had to mount the resistors for the map lights on the sides because there wasn't enough room to put it on top, it would touch plastic parts. I used 1 resistor for each light, works like a charm! No key on acc needed. The resistors do get pretty hot, but I'm hoping that the 1/8" gap between the resistors and other plastic/objects will be enough. And the resistors since they're rated at 3watt should be able to handle the heat just fine. The dimming function works fine also.

 

Adding resistors kind of defeats the the low current draw of an LED doesn't it. Or are you just looking for more light?

 

Well, considering we're talking about 2 watts for each light, it's not a big deal to me. The main thing is brighter, crisper light... And never having to change another one of those bulbs ever again.

 

Also, I have three resistors left. I bought 6 in case I needed to use more than one on each light (I didn't).

If you want to get the ones I have leftover, shoot me a PM.

 

I guess that's my point with the resistors your now at 5 watts per. If the effect is more light I can understand that. Guess changing bulbs once every 10 years can be trouble sum. If you guys have a broken tail light it's full of 3 watt resistors for the stop/parking light LED's

 

5 watts per? I think it's more like 2.7 watts per. I'm not going to cry about 2.7 watts when I have a 500 watt amp and a 180 watt LED bar also.

And yes, as I said before, more light.


As far as brake light LEDs, that's a matter of safety for me, not form. LEDs fire on faster thus alerting the driver behind you faster. Too many dumbasses on the road where I live. If my tail lights say "hey dumbass, I'm STOPPING," then good. I've been rear-ended one too many times in my truck.

If you're here to throw your opinion around, you're entitled. That being said, everyone has one and they all smell like an assh*le. I don't really know what other point you're trying to make.

 

I'm not trying to make any point just wondering why one would go to the trouble with some thing that gets used rarely. LED stop lights etc. make a great deal of sense as all of their light output is facing the right direction.

 

thanks folks for this thread, it's been very helpful!
I just ordered my LED for the dome but while I'm waiting on its arrival I thought I would see what resistors that you recommend?

Everyone seems to have a different idea of which resistors are ideal, 100ohm 3w? 1w?

Thanks, and sorry again for bringing back an older thread!

 

100 ohm 1w for the 01, 02, and 04 models

 

perfect, thanks!
No heating issues?

Not that it matters, but do the LEDs still dim when we shut our car doors?

 

i picked mine up from ebay for like 3 bucks.

came from china. works fine.

sometimes its dim, but if i smack the light, or even roof around light, it pops up all bright like. leasds me to believe bad connector. might look into running two builbs, the normal yellow AND an led, so you can actually have the correct resistence.

maybe put the yellow bulb in the glove box so when doors are open the glove box has light to dig around, or maybe footwell. just have to find the wire in the harness which shouldnd be to bad. i recall "DOME" having its own fuse, i think.


The dome fuse in my 99, also controls the always hot wire that runs to the radio that keeps your time. so you could even trace it back from there. just add a little resistance.

But that leads us to, is your stereo aftermarket? is the pull for the clock correct?



sub edit, do note that the DE3022 is different then the DE3022LL, different length that is. that being said the opposite is whats used int he door lights. which mine are LED. freakin bright without covers, with covers, meh, take it or leave it.

 

The pre 01 doesn't have the issue that they are talking about.

 

I put them on the back of the led before I ship them. That way they are plug n play for the customer

 

gotcha. so my solution would still work then. just provide a resistor, or a bulb.

ive had poor luck with autozone inline resistors, yet dont wanna spend much on sealed resistors, so the second bulb is probably the best way.

i have seen leds that provide "stock level" resistance, but are usually 20+ bucks.

 

a single 6 led 31mm dome for the application I sell for 15. They work great, but you are correct the hot lead is where you can add resistance. I add it behind the led so that you never know is there and will work great. no heat issues

 

how much resistance?



at op, resistors can be had from your local radio shack. unless yours is like mine. they only sell cell phones and prepaid phone cards. and tv's now

 

100 ohm 1 watt for 01,02,and 04 models

 

Why not 03 models?