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Dome lights and Clock malfuction

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by apotter, Mar 12, 2011.

  1. Mar 12, 2011 at 10:56 PM
    #1
    apotter

    apotter [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Had something really strange happen tonight with the dome lights, map lights and clock. Opened the door and the dome light didn't come on; Played with the switch with no results. Tried the map lights, and nothing. Then realized the clock was lit, but not displaying the time. thought it was strange but continued on my way. But wait..it gets even more strange. Used my high beams and the dome light came on! Back to low beams and the light went out. How F'd is this? Has anyone else experienced this?

    Everything seems to be working again once I stopped the truck and opened the door, but Toyota had better be ready to do some serious investigation on a babied truck with 20K miles if it happens again.
     
  2. Mar 12, 2011 at 11:58 PM
    #2
    anethema

    anethema Well-Known Member

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    If under warranty and as reproducible as you say, take it into toyota ASAP before the problem changes or fixes itself.

    Nothing to lose but time, and if wires are shorting etc a lot to gain.
     
  3. Apr 10, 2011 at 5:31 PM
    #3
    apotter

    apotter [OP] Well-Known Member

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    this strange occurance happened again the other night, but this time nothing back back. Checked the fuse and found it had melted..didn't burn out but deformed. Popped in a 2.5 amp (system calls for a 5.0 amp) fuse in, put the old bulbs back and everything is working fine. Guess LED's are always better.
     
  4. Apr 10, 2011 at 6:52 PM
    #4
    skytower

    skytower Well-Known Member

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    Everything is not fine. Fuses blow because something is wrong. You have a short to power(one circuit is shorted to another). Take it in, or hunt for the short, or do nothing and have it bite you in the ass later.
     
  5. Apr 10, 2011 at 7:29 PM
    #5
    apotter

    apotter [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Probably should have prefaced this with the fact that I installed LED's in the dome light and map light area, and a few days later started having the fuse melting problem. Putting the stock bulbs back in remidied the problem. Meant to say LED's are not always better in the last post. I fear putting LED bulbs in as a replacement after this episode. If this happens again with the stock bulbs, there is no question as to whether or not it should be making a trip to the dealer.
     
  6. Apr 11, 2011 at 2:29 AM
    #6
    skytower

    skytower Well-Known Member

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    Hitch and wiring, aux back-up light, rear strobe lights, radio and underseat sub.
    I see... you created the short to power;)
     
  7. Apr 11, 2011 at 6:32 AM
    #7
    95SLE

    95SLE Starting to get cold outside

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    Where did you buy the LED's from? If it was a prewired replacement I would call them up and talk to them about the problem.
     
  8. Apr 11, 2011 at 6:42 AM
    #8
    skytower

    skytower Well-Known Member

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    Hitch and wiring, aux back-up light, rear strobe lights, radio and underseat sub.
    Perhaps they were connected across two power leads, since two circuits were interacting with each other. Hook up the lights directly to the battery, if they work properly, you know where they problem lies.
    I have been guilty of miswiring other accessories. Grounds missing, wrong lead hooked up to a relay, just go through your work and make sure.
     
  9. Apr 11, 2011 at 10:04 AM
    #9
    apotter

    apotter [OP] Well-Known Member

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    The replacment LED's were straight from Hong Kong, and considering the bulbs were only about 50 cents a piece, they will likely make their way to the trash, and no sleep will be lost.

    It's been mentioned I should check the wiring I've done...but I think there is some confusion; All I did was take out the factory bulbs, plug in the replacment LED's, then encountered problems. Once the fuse was replaced, and the factory bulbs were restored to their place, all has been well since. No wires were moved, shifted, spliced or touched in anyway, and that's they way I would really like for it to remain if possible.

    Must admit, if I had done any wiring and come up against the blowing fuse issue, I probably wouldn't let anyone know on TW...mostly likely there would be hours of retracing with visual inspection, and then the multimeter would be brought into action; years of working on tractor trail truck wiring has taught me a frew tricks: A-Never splice B-always solder connection C-always use factory (or gates) plugs D-Use wire ties, and E-heatshrink and dielectric grease are your best friends :) Haven't had any issues using these tricks in New England where ice hangs on wires, and salt attacks points of weakness.

    Hopefully this didn't come across as pompous..I do appreciate the suggestions!
     
  10. Apr 11, 2011 at 10:07 AM
    #10
    apotter

    apotter [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Also, if anyone has a chance to use amphenol connectors, I highly recommend them for severe weather use...These things worked excellent for my teams competition snowmobile.
     
  11. Apr 11, 2011 at 1:37 PM
    #11
    Jerry Bear

    Jerry Bear Well-Known Member

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    OP, I wouldn't test the LED lights. It looks like the one that was in the dome is shorting. A short directly across the battery could hurt you. You are lucky that you didn't burn out the Body ECU while the LED was installed.
     
  12. Apr 11, 2011 at 2:19 PM
    #12
    apotter

    apotter [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yikes..burn out the ECU by installing a direct replacment LED light seems a little extreme; One would hope Toyota wouldn't manufacturer a vehicle that burnt out the ECU when bulb had a short...quite positive the correct size fuses will keep anything major protected from boneheads like me who decide to replace electrical wear items with aftermarket pieces.
     
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