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Dome lights won't turn off!

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016+)' started by jadoiron, Nov 22, 2015.

  1. Dec 1, 2015 at 6:50 AM
    #61
    lilldill

    lilldill Well-Known Member

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    Update??
     
  2. Dec 4, 2015 at 9:03 AM
    #62
    jadoiron

    jadoiron [OP] Well-Known Member

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    UPDATE:
    They said they couldn't find the problem, and that the shop rate was $80/hour if I wanted to go ahead and if it turned out not to be under warranty. So I said forget it for now...

    He said it's almost 100% impossible that it would be a problem from the factory, yet here I am, in the exact same configuration as I was from day one.
     
  3. Dec 4, 2015 at 9:05 AM
    #63
    jadoiron

    jadoiron [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Negative!
     
  4. Dec 4, 2015 at 9:05 AM
    #64
    jadoiron

    jadoiron [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Did you find a solution!?
     
  5. Dec 4, 2015 at 9:06 AM
    #65
    jadoiron

    jadoiron [OP] Well-Known Member

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    STILL nothing!
     
  6. Dec 4, 2015 at 9:10 AM
    #66
    jadoiron

    jadoiron [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Nope just solid on!
     
  7. Dec 4, 2015 at 9:19 AM
    #67
    scottalot

    scottalot FooW

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    Bone stock like Chicken in the Crock Pot .Dakkars,305/70/16 MT's, Extended length Fox Coilovers, Fox RR rear Shocks, Total Chaos UCA's, Dakar Leaf packs, LED Map and Dome, Breather relocate, Slimer from Ghost-busters starut up screen, Vent Visors, LED Pod's on Ditch Brackets soon, Level 8 Strike 6 Wheels, New MT Tars - Fierce Attitude, SOS front bumper -steel, SOS bed rack, LED white marker lights, LED reverse, TRD exhaust, Wheelers Super Bumps up front, SOS sliders bolt on with fill plates, Csjummper2003 White/Amber DTRL and white parking led bulbs, RTT rack basket Sold 2013, sold 2014 Tacoma. All listed stuff was on the '14 Bed Mat, WeatherTech Rain Guards, Ultra Gauge, TW Sticker amongst others, Useless Free OEM Bug Deflector, Flyzeye, OME Kit with 885's and Dakar and Nitro Shocks front and Rear . Tailgate mod, SOS Concepts 1/4" Skid Plate, White LED's interior Dome and Maps, Goodyear Wrangler MTR Kevlar 275/70/17, Wet Okole Seat Covers - full piping in Charcoal Grey, Lamin-X Green Fog light film, 17"x8 -10 offset Level 8 MK6 wheels in Gun Metal Finish, SOS Concepts Sliders W/ Kickout 12/21/14, Stubby antenna, LED reverse lights, lift removed 2/20/15 - making changes and trying to make up my mind
    :eek: I'd just remove all the bulds that are doing this and not have interior lights until someone comes up with a fix. That's a really unfortunate issue on a brand new truck :(
     
  8. Dec 4, 2015 at 9:21 AM
    #68
    jadoiron

    jadoiron [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Agreed :(
    Right now I just have the switch to OFF, and at night if I need to see inside I just flip them ON!
     
  9. Dec 4, 2015 at 9:22 AM
    #69
    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Retire from work, but not from life.

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    I think he's right.

    When you got the truck, it worked fine, correct?

    You may have returned it to the exact same configuration, but the attempted modification is what caused the problem isn't it?

    There's something amiss that only patience and some diagnostic work will eventually ferret out.
     
  10. Dec 4, 2015 at 9:24 AM
    #70
    jadoiron

    jadoiron [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Oh I agree that it's likely my fault, which is why I hesitated the labour. What puzzles me is that ok - I blew a fuse - so I replaced it and put the original bulbs in and that's when this started happening. So it's clearly beyond a fuse.
     
  11. Dec 4, 2015 at 9:32 AM
    #71
    scottalot

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    Bone stock like Chicken in the Crock Pot .Dakkars,305/70/16 MT's, Extended length Fox Coilovers, Fox RR rear Shocks, Total Chaos UCA's, Dakar Leaf packs, LED Map and Dome, Breather relocate, Slimer from Ghost-busters starut up screen, Vent Visors, LED Pod's on Ditch Brackets soon, Level 8 Strike 6 Wheels, New MT Tars - Fierce Attitude, SOS front bumper -steel, SOS bed rack, LED white marker lights, LED reverse, TRD exhaust, Wheelers Super Bumps up front, SOS sliders bolt on with fill plates, Csjummper2003 White/Amber DTRL and white parking led bulbs, RTT rack basket Sold 2013, sold 2014 Tacoma. All listed stuff was on the '14 Bed Mat, WeatherTech Rain Guards, Ultra Gauge, TW Sticker amongst others, Useless Free OEM Bug Deflector, Flyzeye, OME Kit with 885's and Dakar and Nitro Shocks front and Rear . Tailgate mod, SOS Concepts 1/4" Skid Plate, White LED's interior Dome and Maps, Goodyear Wrangler MTR Kevlar 275/70/17, Wet Okole Seat Covers - full piping in Charcoal Grey, Lamin-X Green Fog light film, 17"x8 -10 offset Level 8 MK6 wheels in Gun Metal Finish, SOS Concepts Sliders W/ Kickout 12/21/14, Stubby antenna, LED reverse lights, lift removed 2/20/15 - making changes and trying to make up my mind
    I'm floored that this is being such a complicated issue. Can you not get a diagram and trace everything? There has to be a simple solution.
     
  12. Dec 4, 2015 at 9:34 AM
    #72
    jadoiron

    jadoiron [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I keep checking around for the availability of the '16 service manuals to no avail so far. The fact that the dealer couldn't figure it out kind of makes me hesitant to get too deep into it, assuming they checked all the obvious things like fuses and switches and relays.
     
  13. Dec 4, 2015 at 9:38 AM
    #73
    scottalot

    scottalot FooW

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    I'd be shocked if they looked at more than just the fact that it turns on. Can you go into the headunit and adjust timing and whatnot? seems I read something about that - which could complicate things some.. But - the fact that it works at all rules out some parts, the fact that you can manually turn it off rules out part of another. I almost wonder if its not the light/switch itself.. Question is where does the light get its off when doors closed command from?
     
    16 trd or likes this.
  14. Dec 4, 2015 at 9:41 AM
    #74
    jadoiron

    jadoiron [OP] Well-Known Member

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    As far as I know there are switches on each door opening, and when the doors close, they trigger/close the switch. There's also a fuse for these door switches and a fuse for a "dome relay" or "door relay" or something to that effect - I forget the actual wording, but checked the fuses and they're fine.

    As far as the head unit, I assume you mean the touch screen? Certainly no obvious way to access any features beyond the audio, but I guess it's possible! Would love to know how.
     
  15. Dec 4, 2015 at 9:45 AM
    #75
    scottalot

    scottalot FooW

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    I saw something I thought about people maybe changing the amount of time the lights stay on - may have been BS - don't over think that.
    The door switches are a pretty basic switch unless something drastic has changed. Not really any part to fail on those.
    If the fuses are good then I'd move past those. I think the most likely culprit is the light itself - probably something within that actual switch on the ceiling.
    I'd try and find out the part number for that and compare it to a 2nd Gen - then, if the same pick one up and see about swapping it out - likely a pretty inexpensive part.
     
    jadoiron [OP] likes this.
  16. Dec 4, 2015 at 10:58 AM
    #76
    Herniator

    Herniator Well-Known Member

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    If you are going to put LEDs in. Make sure the power is off. The lights ate polarity sensitive. If they don't work take them out and flip them around. If you try it when the switch is on. You may cause a surge and damage something. Also use quality bulbs. No use cheaping out on a brand new truck. Cheap LEDs are known to have issues.
     
  17. Dec 4, 2015 at 11:03 AM
    #77
    KapitanWalnut

    KapitanWalnut Well-Known Member

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    So, something to remember is that LEDs are CURRENT controlled devices, not voltage controlled devices like traditional halogen or incandescent bulbs. Additionally, they are NON-LINEAR devices, meaning that you can't just approximate the current they'll draw by assuming they'll behave like a resistor (like you can with halogen or incandescent). When you hook an LED up to a voltage supply, assuming that the voltage across the LED is high enough for it to turn on, the LED will draw as much current as the supply will provide. So, in the case of your car, if you hook an LED straight up to the battery through a 7amp fuse, it'll blow the fuse cause it'll try and draw more than 7amps. Chances are the LED will also destroy itself in the process.

    So, how do we get around this? There are two commonly used ways. The simplest way is to just put a resistor in series with the LED. This will effectively limit the current drawn by the LED, making it act more like an incandescent bulb. However, this is very wasteful. Why bother using an LED if you're going to burn a ton of power off through the resistor. So, the second way to use LEDs in voltage-controlled systems (like your car) is to use a dedicated LED driver. These guys will supply the exact current you want to the LED, and will allow the voltage to swing up and down to make the LED happy. This is the most efficient way to use an LED.

    Some LED boards you can buy for cars have current-limiting resistors built into the board so you don't need to worry about having a driver. However, others are intended for use with a driver, so they don't have any resistors on the board. With these boards, you can either use a driver, or you can put a resistor in series with the LEDs so you don't need one (need 1 per strand, don't clump strands through 1 resistor). Again, this is wasteful. If you're going to do this, make sure you have a resistor that is both the correct value and power rating. Remember, resistors can get very hot depending on the amount of power they're dissipating, so be sure they're in a safe place, or better yet, heat-sinked.


    All of the above is for people who want to install LEDs in their trucks in the future. Make sure you know if your LED bulb has current-limiting resistors or not. Also, make sure the LED bulb has similar current/voltage characteristics to the halogen/incandescent you're replacing.

    --------------------

    What does it mean for you guys that already installed them, blew a fuse, and now have issues?

    Most fuses in cars aren't there to prevent components from being damaged. Most of the time automotive fuses are slow-blow, meaning that high current had to be flowing through them for a few hundred miliseconds or so. This is to prevent wires from becoming so hot they catch fire, or from your battery deciding it wants to create explosive hydrogen gas that'll get trapped under your hood. The fuse blows to prevent CATASTROPHIC failure, but some components could still have been damaged.

    My guess? The transistor/solid state relay in your lighting circuit got fried. I don't know the exact circuitry used in Tacos, but if I were designing it it'd be something along the lines of this: tri-position switch either directly controls power to the lights (when in on/off) or allows power to flow to the lights via a computer-controlled transistor or solid-state relay. When in this last mode, the computer will decide if the lights should be off or on depending on doors being opened/closed etc. The computer tells the transistor/solid state relay whether or not the lights should be on. Its the transistor/relay that actually draws power from the battery to power the lights. Hopefully there is an opto-isolator between the computer and the relay, otherwise the computer could have gotten damaged as well. If the computer got damaged, hopefully it's just that particular I/O port and not anything else, otherwise you're in for a world of hurt.

    Another thing that could possibly be going on is that the relay needs a certain amount of current flowing through it to operate properly. Some relays take advantage of the power flowing through them to actually operate. If the Taco is using this kind of relay, then it could be possible that the LEDs are drawing so little power that the relay won't work. I know some of you said you put in the old bulb and things still aren't working, so I doubt this is the issue, I'm just including this idea to help others with their troubleshooting.
     
    MOC221_ and scottalot like this.
  18. Dec 4, 2015 at 11:19 AM
    #78
    jjloco

    jjloco Well-Known Member

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    Did you tell them the you put an LED in there? and it blew the fuse? etc.? .
    If so, that's why they're talking $80/hour and 'if it turned out not to be under warranty' bullshit. They're saying YOU did it.

    I'd double check the door switches.. A long, long time ago, I had an issue related to a faulty switch
     
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2015
  19. Dec 4, 2015 at 11:55 AM
    #79
    Wraith600

    Wraith600 Well-Known Member

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    I assume he must have been honest with them about it for them to say he has to pay. Not to encourage this but try another dealership and don't tell them, see if you get another answer. I would more interested why they couldn't find the problem regardless of a bill or not.

    Glad you were honest because if you caused it, they hey your bad, but still why couldn't they figure it out is what interests me the most.
     
  20. Dec 4, 2015 at 12:14 PM
    #80
    jjloco

    jjloco Well-Known Member

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    I don't know man, a mod as simple as changing a bulb shouldn't cause a short somewhere. I think Toyota should step up and find/fix the issue under warranty.
    Gee wiz.. a $35k+ new vehicle should be covered for issues caused by swapping a bulb, regardless of bulb type. Which is exactly what happened. Owner changed bulb, and system shorted out somewhere. Unless it's explicitly stated somewhere, 'WARNING - DO NOT USE LED BULBS AS ANY ELECTRICAL ISSUES WILL NOT BE COVERED UNDER WARRANTY'
     
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