Door Check Mount Broken

Bought my truck used 2 years ago. Driver’s door check mount isn’t there. You can live without it.

 

Okay I think I got it. Man the door plastic goes back hard. I broke some of the clips and ended up needing to drill and screw a few places. Oh well. I replaced the stopper arm with a new one. It rubs a bit on the inside of the door column/bar thingy.

 

Just wanted to say that I came here for a fix, and I used this method with the 1/4” fender washers and it worked perfectly! Lost a washer and a bolt in the door, down a tight crack (unable to fish out no matter how hard I tried, but they aren't going anywhere). Thanks!

 

Just curious if anyone here knows what the actual cause of this failure is and if anyone has info re: how to pro-actively avoid this failure/problem with some sort of preventative maintenance? I'm thinking maybe it's just an old and brittle plastic failure and they should be replaced on my 10 year old truck. It seems to give some prior warning that things aren't good. Mine don't seem to do much of anything on any of the doors. The mechanism barely has enough friction to hold the door open on mine: a light breeze closes the door. There is a hint of a hold spot at half-way closed, but that's it. I'm thinking about doing the washer mod as a preventative fix.

 

Toyota’s bad design. Tacomas have about 990 TSB’s and they his is NOT one of them. Same as the clear coat failing, leak through the HVAC vent, etc.

 

I just repaired a t100. And id say the cause is thin metal that gets fatigued over time, but yeah weak design.. My friends dad broke it an kept shutting the door with it hanging there, so it kept getting jammed an the door wouldnt shut half the time. So, he managed to mangle what was left of the metal around the broken area. Its not easy to get in there to flatten it. I used a piece of 14 ga. stainless left over from work(no painting), drilled it an slotted to fit on the arm..got some paint off with a burr. Had to burn paint while on the sides where u cudnt grind so welding was not fun... didnt remove door or panel as he didnt wanna spend a fortune, but it wasnt easy to get the nozzle in there.. i cussed it many times. This one was not a candidate for fender washers unfortunately. Think u gotta do that right when it breaks, or take the arm off immediately so it doesnt destroy the hole thats left when it breaks.

 

Great update on this and what to expect. I didn't realize this issue originated in the 1st gens and apparently never addressed subsequently: Unacceptable to say the least.

My preventative routine on this problem since I first read this thread here almost a year ago (thanks!) has been to wipe down and clean the black plastic pieces with a clean dry cloth and apply new coating of white lithium grease to them periodically when I change the oil. I also put a little light oil (3-in-one) on a small brush and apply to the bare sheet metal pieces and bolts. I don't use oil or lubes like PB-Blaster which might deteriorate or break down the plastics.

It's not like it reduces their function to hold open the doors, as these pieces essentially do next to nothing to hold the doors open when they are dry.