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Door Handles keep breaking

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Lettusbee67, Dec 8, 2016.

  1. Apr 30, 2019 at 4:31 PM
    #41
    eon_blue

    eon_blue Okayest Member

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    Although I do remember my very first (original) OEM handle that broke, broke on the actual outside plastic handle part...it cracked one day when I was up in Big Bear over winter and the temps were freezing. After that though, they always failed at that lip on the back.
     
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  2. Apr 30, 2019 at 4:34 PM
    #42
    Gyrkin

    Gyrkin Well-Known Member

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    A few years ago when mine broke I shelled out the bucks for an OEM replacement and it only lasted six months. The latch (the part that actually holds the door shut) gets gummed up over the years and it takes more effort to open. This puts more stress on the handle. If you clean and lube that latch real good, your new handle will last, even if it’s a cheap one. If you don’t, your new handle probably won’t last, even if it’s OEM. After replacing the handle several times in quick succession I took the latch out and gave it a thorough cleaning. Now I can open my door with my little finger, and my cheap, eight dollar Amazon door handle is holding up just fine.
     
  3. Apr 30, 2019 at 5:33 PM
    #43
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    Lmao
     
  4. May 1, 2019 at 2:09 PM
    #44
    OneWheelPeel

    OneWheelPeel Well-Known Member

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    It really seems to me there is something else going on with the rods or those plastic retaining clips.

    I recall reading a while back that somebody had more luck bending the rods slightly.
     
  5. May 1, 2019 at 2:11 PM
    #45
    eon_blue

    eon_blue Okayest Member

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    yeah it's definitely something to do with the rods, I just didn't know how to fix them or where to bend them...didn't want to make them worse. Luckily with the bigger plastic lip on the Dormans it hasn't been an issue anymore for me
     
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  6. May 1, 2019 at 8:50 PM
    #46
    cruisedon66

    cruisedon66 Well-Known Member

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    I replaced the ones on my old truck too.

    Before installation, JB Weld a thin metal strip along the weak point that broke on your old one to help stiffen it.
     
  7. May 5, 2019 at 9:54 PM
    #47
    TRVLR500

    TRVLR500 Well-Known Member

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    I've got a developing problem with mine on my 2004. What happens is the lube inside the door eventually "coagulates" and the plastic door handle eventually just weakens and breaks. Planned obsolescence. Fortunately, Tacos do seem to last forever in many cases. I'm getting ready to pull my doors apart and clean, re lube everything as well as replace the door handles on both sides. My drivers side was almost not opening the door this last winter. Plastic just doesn't do well with hot/cold cycles over many years, or, repeated use.
     
  8. May 5, 2019 at 11:07 PM
    #48
    eon_blue

    eon_blue Okayest Member

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    What kind of lubrication are you using? I recommend only using dry lubricant like Tri Flo or any other PTFE based lubricant (WD40 makes a good one, not the regular the WD40).
    Anything else like silicone or lithium based lubricants will do what you described...coagulate and cause problems
     
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  9. May 6, 2019 at 7:21 PM
    #49
    TRVLR500

    TRVLR500 Well-Known Member

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    Well, I'll probably use whatever the factory recommends which is probably lithium based. I know that it does just "dry up" after years of being in there but it lasted this long from the factory so if I do it again it'll probably last another 15 years. I hear the door handles are a real PIA to change.

    I've always just sprayed silicone, WD-40 and sometimes applied Marvel Mystery oil to hinges etc. but inside the door when I take it apart I'll use whatever the factory used. The mistake i made a few years ago was hitting a deep mud puddle which covered pretty much the entire truck with mud. That crap slid down the window and got into the door. Rolling the windows up and down was much harder after that and still is to a certain degree to this day.

    That was the last time I did that.
     
  10. May 6, 2019 at 7:28 PM
    #50
    eon_blue

    eon_blue Okayest Member

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    Oh yeah you mean the grease that comes on the back of the handles from the factory, yeah that's lithium grease. I was referring to stuff you spray in the lock and on the hinges
     
  11. May 6, 2019 at 7:31 PM
    #51
    TRVLR500

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    Yes, I assumed that is what you meant. I agree it's best to use something in the locks and the latches that doesn't attract dirt. Inside the door is a different situation. I've never had mine apart so I' see what is in there when I do it.
     
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  12. May 6, 2019 at 7:33 PM
    #52
    eon_blue

    eon_blue Okayest Member

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    It's no fun but after you do it once it's pretty straightforward. Have extra clips handy for the door panels, they snap easily. And a 10mm socket on a small swivel wrench will be your best friend
     
  13. May 6, 2019 at 7:39 PM
    #53
    TRVLR500

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    OK, thank you. I did auto body repair decades ago and know about the plastic clips on vehicles. They are pretty much a one use deal. I'll just order all new ones before I even embark on the project.
     
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  14. May 6, 2019 at 7:46 PM
    #54
    eon_blue

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    A trick I read about on here too was to cut a piece of shower curtain to replace the plastic sheet Toyota uses to line the inside of the door (behind the panel)...gets old and tears easily when you try to peel it off, shower curtain works as a replacement and is stronger
     
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  15. May 6, 2019 at 7:52 PM
    #55
    TRVLR500

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    Yep, that plastic in there is something that pretty much always falls apart. Thanks for the tip on the shower curtain. I'd never have thought about that.
     
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  16. Oct 4, 2019 at 9:20 AM
    #56
    Colchicine

    Colchicine Well-Known Member

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    I recently replaced my perfectly working OEM door handles. I wanted to go from chrome to all black. So I had the chance to have both side by side. I read about a half dozen posts on here about how the aftermarket door handles will break, and people should spend $130 on the OE ones.

    I realize it's not the best foto, but I inspected both in hand and I could not see any meaningful difference between the two. I had expected to JB Weld parts that were thinner (as suggested by another post) but without breaking out the calipers I saw no thin parts.
    20190928_193138.jpg

    I got a PAIR of handles for $14!
    https://amazon.com/gp/product/B0030F2O7E/

    I don't see the value in spending $130 on them.

    I wanted to emphasize that I do believe other's suggestions that the problem with broken handles isn't entirely with the quality of the handles, but the lack of lubrication of the the door latch and associated linkages. I removed my handle, latch, and lock mechanism from the door, degreased it all, and sprayed every part (including the nylon bushings) with white lithium grease. Despite not having any problems before hand, it's amazing how easily everything moves now.
     
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  17. Oct 4, 2019 at 9:25 AM
    #57
    QMEDJoe

    QMEDJoe Proverbs 3:5-6

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    Mine lasted 14 years but I’m sure others have already said that Rock auto or one other aftermarket brand is actually better than oem and a whole lot cheaper.
     
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  18. Oct 4, 2019 at 1:25 PM
    #58
    eon_blue

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    Curious to know how those Amazon ones hold up, I got mine off Amazon too but they are Dorman brand (about $15 each).

    Been almost 2 years now since I switched to Dorman handles and haven't broken one since...I'm usually an OEM guy through and through but when it comes to door handles, I'm sold on Dorman. I had half a dozen OEM failures and these Dormans have lasted me a long time now, comparatively.
     
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  19. Oct 6, 2019 at 10:13 AM
    #59
    campoman45

    campoman45 Well-Known Member

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    I also had problem with door handles breaking , bought replacements from Rock Auto lubricated all linkage and used grafite in lock and has been working great so far , I believe the problem is dry linkage after it is all lubricated seems to take care of the problem
     
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  20. Oct 6, 2019 at 10:25 AM
    #60
    cruiserguy

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    Great post man, appreciate the side by side comparo and the pic. This is good to know stuff. I think in past posts I might've read that someone had the original and an 'equal' aftermarket one break on them. I think he said that he thought one of the tab areas where a pressure spring thing resides was weaker material or something, not necessarily different size. Crap I really don't memba. I could be way off
     
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