Door lock problems

Hello every one. I just wanted to see if anyone else has had this issue before. I am having some issues with my locks. Sometimes after the truck is locked I can walk up to it with no key and partially open the door. The alarm goes off, and the door won't fully unlatch, but still odd. Also on occasion when I put it in drive my locks flip to lock/unlock 4 or 5 times in rapid succession. It happens infrequently, so I am not sure if the dealership will be able to replicate the issue.

I am taking it in for the 10K maintenance on Wednesday, and I will get them to look into the problem. I was just curious as to what could be going on there. Any input?

 

Is this a factory alarm?? There have been reports of aftermarket alarms causing all sorts of weird behavior.

G.

 

Any electrical modifications?
If so, start there and disconnect them.

 

Everything is how it came from the lot with 40 miles on it. The only thing they added to my knowledge would be the bed lights as I don't believe those guys come from the factory. Once again, I am going to see if they can trouble shoot it. I am curious if it is the sensor in the door handle. If anyone else knows of anything, let me know. Otherwise, I will post it up once the dealership lets me know.

 

It sounds like a bad earth or power to the door actuator circuit. The plug you tap into for the bed lights also houses the power and earth for the door locks. So my first suggestion would be to pull the drivers side kick panel and see what the wiring looks like for the bed light install. There is not much room, so the may have messed up the wiring a bit putting the kick panel back on.

 

Sounds like the door was not fully closed. I.e. locking latches fully engaged on the striker.

To duplicate/replicate this, close the door very slowly/softly and listen for the clicks as the door lock latch mechanism engages the striker bar. Before the door is fully closed you will hear a click (few millimeters (1/16"-1/8" from full closed).
At this point you will be able to replicate what you describe.
It's closed enough to close the switch that senses the door being open but not closed enough that the latch is fully closed and locked.
At this point you will be able to push on the door harder and you will hear a second faint click, that is the lock pawl fully engaging and you won't be able to juggle the door and set off the alarm.

So either the door was not closed hard enough, (very possible)
Something got in the way, (something in the cabin fell across the door sill when it was closed),
Door seals are too hard (improbable),
Door latch and/or Pillar striker need fine adjustment (possible, but would happen more often and be noticeable when the door was fully closed with the panel match-up)

 

I will try, different pressures of closing. It has happened about a dozen times since I have had it. The cycling locks when shoving from park happens 2 to 3 times a week.

Also, I will pull the kick panel and take a peek at it in the morning

 

Try and video it, I know it may be difficult but if I had not taken video of my radio messing up I think I would have gotten the run around.

 

I started to try to catch a video of it today. The one time I didn't have it up, it did the thing.

 

If you have to "really slam it" to get it to consistently close properly, easiest thing you can quickly check is;
how soft/hard the door seals feel compared to the doors that close and lock easily.
Make sure they are all fully seated in their grooves. (It'll be fairly obvious if you compare one door to another).
(There are more tests for the door seals but by then it's less hassle to take it to the dealer)
Sometimes they (door seals) also need to "break in" on a new vehicle.
So you gotta put a little more effort into closing the door for the first while.
Make sure all the door gaps are even from the outside when fully closed and the door is sitting flush.
No marks from contact or rubbing between the door and cab.

Just a guess from across the internet... but the cycling security locks can happen when, the security ocks engage or the trucks moves, it causes just enough movement for the door to "jiggle" enough to cycle the door open button, to cause the computer to try to close/cycle the the locks again because the software thinks you just opened and closed the door. Because the door is in the latched position.

You won't see anything useful taking the kick or door panels off at this stage of the game,
As the next check is of the latch mechanism it self with a rod the same diameter as the striker,
I just use a Philips screwdriver to watch how the latch mechanism pawls rotate and that they will grab the screwdriver before it gets to the back of the slot.

It'll make more sense what I'm saying then you look at how the latch in the drivers door works.

Move the screwdriver right to left into the latch,

First click the pawls rotate around and the the screwdriver cant move back to the right until you unlock* the door, (that is a secondary safety latch by design).

Push the screwdriver further to the left and the 2nd click, you will see the two pawls have wrapped around the screwdriver to lock it in, no left to right movement now.(depending on diameter of screwdriver).

If the screwdriver goes all the way to the left and hits the back steel in the slot of the latch mechanism or hits an internal "bumper" with no second click,then it may need to be adjusted.

*(and by unlock the door I'm talking door handles, not lock unlock)

 

I believe this is happening.
When it happens next time.
Pull over to a safe spot. And put it in park.
Don't operate the door release handle
Lean your shoulder into the door and grab the pull pocket on the door and try and wiggle the door in and out.

 

STOP!!!!!!!!!

It's a brand new truck. Take it to the dealer!!!!!

G.

 

Seriously. Why do ppl insist on “diagnosing” a vehicle under factory warranty... lol

 

Because most times it's faster and way better than a tech who doesn't care about your vehicle tearing into shit.

 

Two reasons,

1) To see if it is a common problem that I can identify instead of having somebody start pulling interior panels and scratching things/breaking clips
2) If it was an easy fix i would prefer my door lock properly now instead of in a couple of days from now.

 

THIS!!!!!

and that the techs hands are tied in some cases when Toyota won't "Authorize" a repair or are forced to perform steps X,Y, and Z before they'll will do what should have been done from the beginning.

 

And I am back! Dealer said could not duplicate issue. Even if I have a video of the issue, unless they can see it happen right in front of them real time, they cannot do anything. I told them my door can randomly be partially opened even when locked and it makes me uncomfortable as my doors should lock and stay closed when locked. After politely arguing, they tried get me to rent one of their cars. After speaking again, they gave me free Rav 4 for the day. If they cannot duplicate the issue, they said they will let me speak with the next level up the chain.

Now I am having to make multiple trips to the dealer over multiple days.

To those who asked why I would like to trouble shoot. Sometimes a quick adjustment that could fix the problem would be MUCH greater than having to deal with this.

 

This is what I captured on video:

https://youtu.be/CvfWjnTfaB4

 

What was the fix?

 

"We can't re-create it"

Still not as frustrating as my hood that flaps like a tarp! (maybe i'll post pics of the noob repair the dealer did, been on-going for 1.5 years)