Door switch wierdness

Thank you

 

So pin 7 of connector 1F (green/yellow wire) reads 0V with the door open and 10V with the door closed. The door switch on the driver door still does not trigger the courtesy light etc. I'm assuming that this means the Body ECU is bad? Does the BCU require programing for the specific vehicle/VIN number, or is it universal for all Tacoma's for that year?

 

I assume that the black gizmo on the top right with the big white plug is the BCU? I've looked on ebay for a replacement but the ones there look totally different. For example - there are several similar to this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/395147477133 I know that a replacement from a dealer will cost somewhere north of $600. I'd really like to find a used part. I don't see a part number on the thing.

Update - It appears that the way to go is to order a used cabin fuse box which includes a BCU. I promise that this is the last question. Looking on various parts sites, used fuse boxes for the tacoma are listed as 2008-2011, 2010-2014, and 2011-2016. Can I safely assume that a 2010 cabin fuse box/BCU will work in my 2011 access cab. Thanks for putting up with the long and rambling thread.

 

Looks that way, you said it works from the passenger door correct?

No you just need to get the correct part number one.

Well it's integrated into the fuse/junction box but yes that's it.

That's the JB No 2 not the Body ECU.

Part number is on a tag at the top of the box, I don't know if you can see it without removing the box.
If you DM me your VIN I can try to confirm the part number on Repair Link.

 

So to finish up the story. Based on suggestions from people here, I purchased a used cabin fuse box/BCU for a 2010 Tacoma, removed the old box, and installed the new one. While I haven't yet tried to authorize a new fob, the system seems to be working as it used to. When you open the drivers door, the dome light comes on, as does the open door indicator. When you close the door with the key off, the dome light stays on for a bit and then turns off.

Thanks to everyone who helped me get this fixed. I really appreciate this community.

 

Did you autopsy the old box?

 

I pulled the cover and looked for any obvious damage (burned traces, discolored components, etc.) Everything seems normal but I haven't looked at the reverse side of the board. Also, it may be a multi layer board and there could be damage to internal trances. Right now I'm dealing with the aftermath of the tornados here in North Florida.

 

Ah ok good luck, hope there wasn't too much damage.

 

The new fuse box (about $20) came with a new body computer. Once I replaced the unit, everything worked as it should.