Double Cardan Drive Shafts?

Holy crap that's it!

So my plan is to just buy all the parts, and do this myself aside from actually shortening the tube and welding/balancing. Does anyone know the stock length for a DCLB driveshaft?

 

Trouble finding someone in Georgia who'd be willing? That seems surprising, sure it's not Utah or Colorado or some mountain area but yall have mud trucks and wheelers down there. Maybe look to local 4x4 groups, forums, etc and see if they can share some knowledge on a shop/guy who does custom work.

Jake

 

I did find some jeep shops and "big diesel truck shops" who only work on giant useless mall crawlers...haha. jeep shops only work on Jeep's. I just live in a crap area.

 

Sucks man. You'd think someone who does driveshaft work on any big diesel or jeep would happily take a paycheck to make you one. If they're competent in their craft...it isn't really a tough setup to piece together. Try bringing a parts list, diagram, whatever in with you and show em it's not super custom, just off the shelf parts and a basic shortening and rebalance.

 

Well yeah the Jeep shop sounded as if they would try but said "no guarantees". I'm not sure if they just don't want to or what, which I mean is fine if you don't want to do it just tell me. Haha

The hunt continues.

 

Where did you buy the double cardan its' self? What spider joints does it use?

 

I used these guys when I raced. They do good work.
https://driveshaftservices.com/

https://www.google.com/search?q=dri...ome..69i57.29294j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

 

I sent them an email!

 

Here's the parts list for the modified driveshaft using 1310 sized u-joints in the double cardan, which is slightly smaller than the stock 1330 u-joints.

Starting at the front and working towards the diff:

2-4-4341 Spicer spline end yoke
Spicer 1310 u-joint
211355X Spicer centering yoke

$45 Spicer 2-26-497 Center Yoke

2-26-497 Spicer double cardan center
Spicer 1310 u-joint
2-28-2977X Spicer Tube Yoke
NEAPCO 5368 - 3" to 3.5" adapter to fit 2-28-2977X to flipped and shortened rear driveshaft

Most of the parts are available through Amazon, any local 4x4 shop or online at several reputable vendors.

 

Any reason not to use a setup with the same spider joint sizes? Seems like it would be easier to have all the spiders be the same.

 

Of Course that'd be ideal. The problem is, those of us who've taken them to local shops to have custom modifications made, have encountered the claim that it couldn't be done without either going 100% new or downgrading to the 1310 for the cardan joint...and there's significant cost savings going for the 1310 setup vs all new.

So some members are working through the details to see if it is indeed possible to keep it 100% 1330 u-joints...time will tell if the parts list make it from idea to reality.

Towards the end of this thread is the developing 1330 information: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/single-and-two-piece-driveshaft-vibes-be-gone.475797/page-28

 

Ah okay, is it a limitation of the stock spider joint?

 

From what I was told, the main issue was the double cardan joints on the market skip the 1330 sizing, it's either 1310 or going way oversized. Combine oversizing with the stock rear driveshaft tubing sizes (3" front half, 3.5" rear) and the parts available just didn't go together in a realistic fashion. The linked thread is working on proving that incorrect though.

 

Nice setup. I saw some guys, in the other thread, who did something similar. Only catch, as you mentioned, was pricing. They were paying something like $1,300 for such a beast driveshaft. I had mine modified (with the smaller 1330 u-joints) for $450, others similarly done were more like $350.

Naturally, it's a question of budget, intended use, etc to determine which route one may need to go here.

 

Also...is the 1310 lesser quality or lesser strength?

 

Lesser strength due to being a smaller overall u-joint.

1330 Series U-Joint: Width (3.625") Cap Dia. (1.062") Max Angle (20*) Continuous Rating (150 lb-ft) Short Duration Rating (890 lb-ft)

1310 Series U-Joint: Width (3.219") Cap Dia. (1.062") Max Angle (30*) Continuous Rating (130 lb-ft) Short Duration Rating (800 lb-ft)

 

Is this enough to be a problem?

 

How do you use your truck?

If you wheel hard, the 11-15% decrease in torque ratings *could* be a problem. If you drive only on the street, it shouldn't make a real world difference.

I wheel, but not hard, and I don't foresee it being a problem. Others would disagree, so you'll have to make an informed decision.

 

Prerunner, so no wheeling... Might cruise down some trails for light fun though. Sounds like it will be fine.