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Doug Thorley Long Tube header install help needed...

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas' started by DrRabbitFurHead, Feb 26, 2011.

  1. Feb 26, 2011 at 8:01 AM
    #1
    DrRabbitFurHead

    DrRabbitFurHead [OP] Yeah, there's a TSB for that!

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    WOW, what a challenging job. I'm installing the headers for the 4.0L V6 and could use some help.

    So far I've got the drivers side manifold head nuts off (middle bottom nut was a PITA), The O2 sensor disconnected (tip: use a small flat blade screw driver to help with the clip), the 14mm collector flange nuts off, I've removed the bolt on the brace by the collector flange and loosened the spring loaded y-pipe bolts

    ALL OF THIS WAS on the drivers side only (1.5 hours). The dilema...

    Do I have to remove everything from BOTH sides before I can "wiggle" the OEM headers off? After doing only one side I can't, for the life of me, figure out how to "wiggle" the OEM header off. The long threaded posts on the stock headers by the collector flange is keeping me from getting things apart.

    I'm doing this job SOLO so any quick advice is appreciated!
     
  2. Feb 26, 2011 at 8:11 AM
    #2
    NYCO

    NYCO ┌∩┐‹(ಠ_ಠ)›┌∩┐

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    i have this job ahead of me in a few hours so you got me subscribed...

    i know you've already seen this write up from the group buy page but..
    http://www.xr-underground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5553

    it doesn't talk about your dilema specifically but can't help you anymore...keep us posted..
     
  3. Feb 26, 2011 at 8:14 AM
    #3
    Brandon###

    Brandon### Well-Known Member

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    I've never done this, but I've heard that some guys removed the intermediate steering shaft to get the manifold off/on
     
  4. Feb 26, 2011 at 8:19 AM
    #4
    DrRabbitFurHead

    DrRabbitFurHead [OP] Yeah, there's a TSB for that!

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    I've already removed the O2 sensor on the passenger's side and the 14mm collector flange nuts (and the bolt in the bracket). Starting on the head manifold nuts now...

    Really could use a hand...

    JUST CAN'T FIGURE OUT HOW TO REMOVE THE OEM MANIFOLDS??? Wiggling doesn't seem to be the trick.
     
  5. Feb 26, 2011 at 8:32 AM
    #5
    6spdtaco

    6spdtaco Well-Known Member

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    Do the loosened headers move or are they seized in place? Are you trying to move them up out of the engine bay or down and out the bottom?
    I've never done these headers but have on other vehicles. Its easier to remove from under the vehicle I think.
     
  6. Feb 26, 2011 at 8:35 AM
    #6
    DrRabbitFurHead

    DrRabbitFurHead [OP] Yeah, there's a TSB for that!

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    I'm going at them from the bottom side of the vehicle. The problem is that the OEM collector flange has 'studs' that are very long going thru the OEM manifolds. I have to pull down on the y-pipe (and/or collector flange) AND wiggle the OEM manifolds at the same time... definately a 2 person job... but I'm trying it solo.

    Oh yeah, passenger side removal of hardware is 10 times easier than the drivers side.

    Edited: The passenger side shows a 'gap' so they're not seized in place. The drivers side (I don't think is seized) but the manifold didn't 'fall away' from the engine block ~ 1/4" like the one on the passenger side did.
     
  7. Feb 26, 2011 at 9:06 AM
    #7
    DrRabbitFurHead

    DrRabbitFurHead [OP] Yeah, there's a TSB for that!

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    Anyone have any advice? I called a friend and he won't be 'free' for about 2 hours. I'm going to try to figure out the O2 simulator now...

    Gotta' love an instruction free mod. :D
     
  8. Feb 26, 2011 at 9:16 AM
    #8
    southern_x

    southern_x FJ FTW!

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    all stock :(
    disconnect the y pipe in the rear and drop down from both the rubber bushings towards the front it will give you more room to slide the stock headers out.

    on the passenger side up top you will need to move some wires out the way (they have a clip that attaches to the body) that will give you the right amount of space to slip in the new headers.

    drivers side header is a pita to get in, if you can swing it over the drive shaft and it will go right in, had a friend that came over and 5mins later had it in while me and another messed with it for like an hour ha ha
     
  9. Feb 26, 2011 at 9:20 AM
    #9
    goride

    goride Well-Known Member

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    Find some thing to brace the the loosened ypipe down and out of the way, loosen or take off brackets that brace the headers to the tranny, and from the top wiggle them loose and slid them down past the ypipe and out, I removed my steering shaft on the drivers side to get the new headers in,gadget said that you can remove the stud I believe in the middle instead of the steering shaft to get clearance, both seem to be about the same in terms of PIA, if you do remove your steering shaft mark it first with a marker to line it up right when reinstalling,I had to redo mine because I did not do this and it was not aligned correctly. Good Luck
     
  10. Feb 26, 2011 at 9:22 AM
    #10
    southern_x

    southern_x FJ FTW!

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    removing the steering column seems a bit much especially if you muck it up and forget where to set it :(
     
  11. Feb 26, 2011 at 9:25 AM
    #11
    TacoTodd

    TacoTodd Active Member

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    It helps if you disconnect the y pipe set up and slide it back about 4" The stock exhaust will fall out the bottom on the driver side. When installing the header on the driver remove the rear bottom back stud from the head and reinstall after you install the header. You do not need to remove the steering shaft. The passenger side will fall out when you side the y pipe out of the way.
    Hope this helps.

    TacoTodd
     
  12. Feb 26, 2011 at 9:28 AM
    #12
    goride

    goride Well-Known Member

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    It didnt make any funner to do, but thats why you mark it before hand. Some have been able to get it in without pulling the stud or steering shaft
     
  13. Feb 26, 2011 at 9:29 AM
    #13
    goride

    goride Well-Known Member

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    Do what he^^ said
     
  14. Feb 26, 2011 at 9:43 AM
    #14
    DrRabbitFurHead

    DrRabbitFurHead [OP] Yeah, there's a TSB for that!

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    So should I remove the y-pipe where it mates back up to the stock straight pipe, where the 2 spring loaded y-pipe bolts are? If so, does the y-pipe just 'move' around on the hangers or do I have to figure out how to remove them from the hangers too?

    Thanks!
     
  15. Feb 26, 2011 at 9:55 AM
    #15
    southern_x

    southern_x FJ FTW!

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    i removed mine there rabbit, i prob didnt need to but was easier and gave more room
     
  16. Feb 26, 2011 at 9:56 AM
    #16
    DrRabbitFurHead

    DrRabbitFurHead [OP] Yeah, there's a TSB for that!

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    Also, would I have to disconnect the back 2 oxygen sensors? I'm thinking that with a 2nd pair of hands the passenger side will come right out.
    The drivers side will definitely need some work. Keep the good suggestions coming and thanks for the help.
     
  17. Feb 26, 2011 at 10:35 AM
    #17
    southern_x

    southern_x FJ FTW!

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    did you get the rear o2 sim?, but yes disconnect i cant remember the length dont know if it will prevent the y-pipe from coming down to its fullest
     
  18. Feb 26, 2011 at 12:44 PM
    #18
    DrRabbitFurHead

    DrRabbitFurHead [OP] Yeah, there's a TSB for that!

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    Good News - Well I got the headers off by removing the brackets that hold the headers to the transmisison and wiggling them out of the way. I also slid the y-pipe around by removing the hangers from the rubber holders.

    Bad News - My air/fuel sensor threads stayed in both of the headers. PB Blaster over night, PB blaster this morning and PB blaster today didn't work.

    ~$230 for expedited shipping for 2 new Denso, 234-9051 Air fuel Ratio Sensors... and I'll be on my way...
     
  19. Feb 26, 2011 at 3:04 PM
    #19
    DrRabbitFurHead

    DrRabbitFurHead [OP] Yeah, there's a TSB for that!

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    Yeah, I paid for an O2 sensor kit and used that. It's a split socket design to slip over the wire and fit over the nut on the sensor. Works like a charm when the OEM uses anti-sieze like they're supposed to. I'm guessing that was the problem, but who knows.

    I seem to have bad luck when installing my aftermarket mods. So far I've...
    1. Ground down my calipers too far when trying to clear aftermarket wheels (FYI, never grind your calipers) $350 mistake and a week w/o the truck...
    2. Had the truck slip off of the high lift jack (FYI, always have someone hold the jack when the truck's lifted. Those jacks are super unstable) a few cosmetic scratches to add character...
    3. I've had aftermarket manufactureres sell me the wrong parts and didn't find out about it until mid way through the install. Got to make custom parts to make everything work. A few days w/o the truck...
    4. Had this mishap with the A/F ratio sensors. A $230 mistake and a few days w/o the truck.

    I'll watch out for the water situations. Would you recommend using some silicone or something?

    Is there any way I could have done something wrong to cause this to happen? I used PB blaster last night, this morning at 7am and again around 2pm when I tried to remove the sensors.
     
  20. Apr 28, 2011 at 6:21 PM
    #20
    PrerunnerChris

    PrerunnerChris Go Big Or Go Home!

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    Do you happen to know where i would be able to buy new header bolts for a 06? I have tried to look but i dont know the size of the bolts.
     
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