DRILLING INTO ROOF TRACK

Hello,
I have stripped and cross threaded into one of my factory roof nuts and now I want to use a self tapping metal screw to fasten into the channel in order to not have 1 loose bolt. It’s only 1 out of 10 bolts but It will drive me nuts just knowing.

Has anyone done this? Advice?


Basically I’m mounting a rack foot and going to go an inch over from the factory nut hole that is stripped and self tap down into the roof. Will it work? Will it hold? Was thinking maybe go in the same hole with a bigger screw?

 

Helicoil it

 

I was trying to find a reference to add to my above post - Not sure which roof rack you have, but if you load it up you don’t want to make it any weaker putting something in it that might strip out. You might be able to get a Helicoil that will fit the original bolt as well. Good luck!

 

I would but now my only issue is that the rack is fully installed with rtv sealant around all the holes so I want to be able to have it on and add a bolt essentially. What I’m concerned about is screwing into the roof metal. Will the tapping screw have enough bite to get thru or should I pilot? Or should I just drill a hole then put a slightly bigger screw in that hole?

 

Do you have a tap set? Also, I’m not sure of this but are there nuts welded on the backside of that or is it going through a solid piece of metal? If you move the foot over it might be on a weaker spot. This sounds like you already moved the foot over, which would mean I would use a tap if the metal is thick enough.

Edits: due to stupid voice typing!!

 

Yeah I'd just re-tap the hole or chase threads. You can rent a Tap/Die set from O'Rilley's for free as long as you return it undamaged etc.

I had the same issue install mine. The front drivers side hole either wasn't aligned or I messed it up. I'm leaning more towards wasn't aligned from the factory because I test-fitted all the bolts and it didn't go in even then

 

I really like O’Reilly’s, good suggestion - I forgot they loan out tools.

 

If its beyond all repair, and you use a self taping screw. Make sure to apply silicone to it, as a fail safe incase water gets in somehow.

 

Quick repairs by Bishop

If he drives off road at all on washboard and the rack is loaded, all those little self tapping screws are going to come out.

 

If 5 bolts on each side arranged by 2/1/2 and on one side the secured bolts are front to back 2/0/1 is that going to be fine? Aka should I just leave it and be aware or try to better anchor through a self tapper?

 

Take it off, do the repairs properly and mount the rack with the proper hardware. Don’t half-ass it just to have a cool looking rack that isn’t secured well enough to use as a rack.

 

That’s what the smart side of ,y brain says. But it is technically good enough to use. One corner has 1 bolt instead of 2 and the middle on one side has zero. But strong 2 o. The front and 5 up the other side. I can push with all my might on the weak side and it doesn’t even move 1/32nd. It’s more for my paranoia. Also I’m thinking loaded there’s even less worry because the weight right?

 

I wouldn’t take shortcuts, can you tap it with the rack still on? A helicoil wont require much larger of a tap than the original hole already is. One less hole to worry about too, that channel fills up with water and if you are in a place where things freeze, it could leak in a while.

 

I agree with previous posts; a self tapping screw sounds half assed and risky.
I’d try to chase the threads with a tap first. If that didn’t work i’d put a Helicoil or NutSert in the hole and silicone everything afterwards.....

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ditch-mounted-tracks-on-double-cabs.418816/
Ive drilled through for rivets, theres some info here. Dont go too deep cuz theres electrical behind it

 

I did something similar on my FJ. I ended up dropping the headliner to access the cross threaded but. Replaced with a better one. Sealed with silicone from the bottom, as well as the top.