Drilling through the frame....need help

Why are you even messing with that? Weld them on. Every advantage and no disadvantage

 

I too used the cheap Harbor Freight step drill bit to drill through my frame.

OP, there is a trick to drilling your frame. Mark the spot by pre-drilling with 1/8" bit.
Use a step drill bit. Make sure to tape off the bit to hole size you want to stop at. Use medium speed. Higher RPM just heats up the bit. Use a lubricant spray while drilling.
The most important trick, use the jack method. The jack provides the pressure and saves your arms from fatigue. You'd need some coordination to do this.

And if you haven't already, make sure to line up the sliders first and hold with a jack then mark the holes. Much easier to drill without the sliders in the way.

 

Everytime I'm in a thread where somebody needs advice you are always here before any other vendors. Just want to say that doesnt go unnoticed. @Mobtown Offroad its great your always around to offer good advice on your product as well as others. Look forward to doing business with you guys.

 

I found the frame easy to drill with this method. Use a new cobalt bit and some cutting oil. On the frame sides lean into the drill motor to maintain pressure, use a slow speed (you should get curls of metal, not chips) and occasionally dip the tip in the cutting oil. On the bottom of the frame follow the same process but use a floor jack to maintain pressure on the drill motor. The bottom holes went faster than the sides that way. If you need an angle drill for a tight location, Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive angle attachment that works fine for the number of holes required.

 

This!!!

 

I wasn't aware of your business till now. I'd looked at CBI and Relentless only because they were suggested to me. They were either far too expensive or the lead time was outrageous.

Definitely no getting curls...getting chips. Been leaning into it pretty hard. Maybe I need even more pressure.

 

You know, I was just thinking the same thing when I was reading the CCW thread and @Mobtown Offroad had a comment on there. I thought this guy is everywhere on here and not just to sell their products but to actually interact with all of us.

 

Something that REALLY helps is a magnetic drill. You can rent them. I'd highly recommend it. We have one (even though ours don't require drilling) but we've let others use it to drill their chassis. Life saver.

 

Step bit for sure. Less wear and tear on a single cutting edge. Buy a few 1/4" bits to start holes if the end of your step bit gets blunt.

 

Ive never had much luck with step bits on thick steel.

 

Lubricating oil is formulated to prevent one piece of steel from wearing away another--cutting fluid (oil) is formulated to help one piece of steel wear away (cut) another -- sulfonated/chlorinated and other additives to assist and encourage wear...

 

Why are you drilling the frame?
You should be drilling the sliders to line up with the frame holes...

 

Yep, gotta love those step drill bits .... NOT:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/royally-fd-up-installing-cali-raised-52-led-bar-brackets.491779

 

Sounds like you bought the wrong companies sliders.

 

Except when it's time to repaint.

 

If the holes in the frame line up with the mounting plates, I'd go with this... Mark the holes, place the sliders on saw horses, drill away.

 

I seriously scratch my head over guys who hesitate to weld sliders on, yet drill 32 1/2" holes in their frame. You can weld sliders on, cut them clean off with a sawzall in 5 minutes, spend 20 minutes with a flap wheel, can of flat black spray paint, and no one will ever be able to tell the truck had sliders on it...

 

Please give up the manufacturer's name you purchased these from. Save others some grief. Me and a buddy bolted on my SOS sliders in a half-hour.

 

BAMF sliders for one require drilling/bolting if you plan on lifting on a Hi-Lift from the sliders. If you're just using them as light protection from rocks they're not required. Though I'd be curious to see how other no-drill sliders hold up to a Hi-Lift test.

 

I have bamf and the bolts on only required 6 total holes from the bottom up. Rented a corded drill from harbor freight and used a good bit from lowes then used a step up bit for the rest. Took maybe 1 hr. Kids that fuck this up or use a step up bit in the wrong application is why people think this is hard.