Drive shaft mount failure

This bearing is still okay. The rubber just got it's first crack. So another is already on the way.

 

It looks like there was a spacer in there acting as a drop?
Did you or the previous owner install the spacers or “drop kit”?

 

So I checked under my truck, although it’s a 2015 2nd gen. Mine has completely different bolts and there is no washer between the bearing and mount. Could be why it came out.

 

My last truck was a 20 year old Dakota with 259k miles before a brake failure ended its life.

Never a single real issue with that truck.

 

Six inch lift by previous owner. Looking at the side that still has a bolt. The thread through is more than three threads. So in theory the bolt had enough thread, threaded.

Fact is if you go through this forum and find the center bearing post that is stickied. You will read about nothing but shaft vibrations in these trucks.
If it problem is that common Toyota should have put it a recall.

 

Anyway, i guess I'm in the hunt for that cross member. I would rather do that than fab my own parts. But unlike the previous knucklehead i will make sure this is not a repeat more of failure.

Please forgive the initial hot headed lack of ability to think and reason out what happened and what the fix is.

 

So I’d say to your initial post on your piece of shit truck. You’ll notice the mount didn’t fail. The bolt came loose you heard a noise which was probably the bolt initially coming loose you continued to drive thus causing the bolt to finally fall out, then heard more noise sounded like a tire going low and still continued to drive. Yet it’s Toyota’s fault. It’s sucks that it happened and I’m glad you didn’t get hurt. I’ve owned 5 Toyota’s and have never had that happen.

 

Carrier bearing drop + aftermarket bolts. Whoever messed with that last is probably to blame. No reason to blame Toyota on this one.

 

Now that you cooled down. A good fab guy could whip those out in 20 minutes, weld them on new hardware and your done. Maybe an hour of work total.

 

I’m not saying that who ever installed it is a fault.
I personally am running stock. But it’s nice to know these things for future reference.
I’d look at getting some one to attempt to straighten it out. Then when you have some extra money.
Maybe go with one of these options.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/single-and-two-piece-driveshaft-vibes-be-gone.475797/

 

Most of these issues are self inflicted from lifting the truck. I've had vibes too and have been running spacers on the center support bearing for about 40k miles, didnt have to use those before lifting. Also my kit came with extended bolts, just three threads does not seem enough.

 

Trouble is I don't know of anyone I would call good in the phoenix area, and pretty much live cash strapped like everyone. ... every weld and line up I have seen over the last 15 years working in various yards has been a mile off at best, and overpriced to boot. If I cannot find a new cross member to just outright bolt on. Then I will have to make some mount them with bolts, because I trust my hands more than others. Then borrow a welder to tack it in place once I have pre-fixed it with the bolts.

I will say I guess I am not surprised the previous owner had the E-brake lines caught between the leaf springs.. I had to create a solution for that half assed job already. Financially though I am still paying for this truck, and for the years I worked for free at the VA to get a job, after breaking my back years ago. Blue collar is just not in the cards for me anymore. Spent a year and a half working for the VA trying to get out of turning wrenches for a living. Now I only work on my stuff or charge ridiculous premiums to drive would be customers away. However, debt stacked means hands tied until mid next year when I am finally done paying to work for my Veterans.

Anyway like noted above enough whining about it.

Once I have a solution. (Either fab or replacement part.) I will update it. At that point I will ask a mod for a temporary mod privilege to clean up this thread. Get rid of my whiny crap, note the issue and note the solution for future people to see without all the sob story and frustration. ... I hate littered posts like mine. Train wreck posting. I would almost say this could be completely removed an I will start it from scratch.

 

Three exposed threads is a good general rule. Not three threads in three threads through... as in three threads showing past the nut.

That was the standard we used for working on most things with the F-15E models I worked on.

I will say this. Those welded nuts will be getting removed. There is no way they can retain their torque specs with the frequency these bearing require replacing. With something like this and the added vibration. I am an over-killer. I will put in a longer bolt, and apply two torque nuts wrenched together with max lock tight. I would rather cut a bolt off in the future than have to replace frame parts like this.

As far a lift kit stress. Yes I will concede. However, I would say this is probably the most often lifted truck in the states, besides old pickups from the 70's. With that said the manufacturer is quite aware of this. Unless they simply never drive period. They obviously have made certain aspects of the truck lift ready. Why would they not beef up the thing that would be effected by a lift.

 

Thanks for this

 

Ah I gotcha, yea that's much better than what I thought you meant

 

There's lots of TW members in AZ. Hop in the regional section and I'm sure someone will help you weld that up for some beer.

That crossmember is welded on, so I don't see a bolt on solution happening, unless it's a 1 piece driveshaft.

 

My distaste for toyota at this point is also because of what they have done to axle bearing seals. They changed the seals to move the contact lip closer to the axle retaining ring bevel. So when you corner oil comes out and blows your brake pads. What is really bad is I took it to a local shop to have the bearing pressed on and off. They said they had the equipment. to press them correctly. Needless to say they damaged both of my brake backing plates. That isn't Toyota's fault, however having to get it done a second time, because they redesigned the seals to be more failure prone is.

Let this be an actual lesson. Either drive out of your way to a real acle shop, or buy your own press and proper puller. the backing plates are either $70 or $90 to replace... Not including the bearing studs. So this is not a mistake you want to run into.

 

You got me there...Mine has bolts and rivets.... Not sure why it would have bolts and rivets. When I went for that second look I saw the bolts and simply thought. This just got easier.... Now I am back to a bit pissed.

So this bolt with the red arrow is what caught my eye when I thought this may be simple.

I am also going to have to take the shaft in to rebalance and clean up I imagine. As well as get a get a new tank shroud.. the shroud can wait for the moment though.

 

This all happened in the last mile to my house. It is all I can do not to go drive it till it catches fire.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/forums/arizona.84/

And here are all the others

https://www.tacomaworld.com/forums/regions.36/