Drive shaft mount failure

I have 337k+ on my 2013
drive the crap out of my taco
never had such a failure with driveshaft on my gen 2

that is scary shit though
pogo stick in taco is no fun/possibly deadly

 

Because when a two piece driveshaft is angled and lined up correctly using an even less than stellar center carrier bearing design there is not a whole huge need to use a super beefed up center carrier support section like you are describing. The mount for the carrier is just that, a simple mount, and assuming the carrier is lined up correctly and riding on correct angles it will not vibrate itself out to the point where a bolt backs out to allow the whole shaft to spin to kingdom come.

The housing for the carrier bearing is more than capable of containing the shaft from wobbling around after it has broken the rubber bushing around it as well.

This situation while incredibly unfortunate, happened because you rode on it for so long, ignored the vibrations, and eventually wound up where you are right now. While it may not be your fault for poor reinstallation after the lift kit was removed, you are left to pay for the broken dishes, and have only further exacerbated the issue for neglecting to further inspect it after having a very clear warning that something was VERY wrong.

Consider yourself lucky that nothing worse than what currently is going on happened.

 

Okay I have posted up a help thread in the regional. Anyone have any suggestions should that not pan out... I am thinking cut those rivets out and find a place that will let me cut one off. Trouble is most junk yards around here will not let you bring grinders in.

I am open to suggestions. The next best thought I have for the moment is bend the back to a semblance of correct and cut and bolt some plate steel over top of these factory mounts.

 

From the video, it appears only one of the mounts was affected, while the other seems to still be in good serviceable order. I would use 1/8 inch steel plating, remove the welded on nut that is currently there and just sandwich the plate between a new nut and bolt, reinstall a bolt on the other side and you are good to go. After that take it to a welder and have him weld that steel plate so it become a part of the frame structurally.

Do yourself a favor and remove those stupid spacers in between the mount and the carrier bearing though. The reason the bolt backed out was most likely because it didn't have enough threads for engagement to hold on due to that stupid spacer.

 

they did issue a service campaign. i had two u joints replaced under the program. others have received new drive shafts

 

Throw that 2 piece away, cut those tabs and get a 1 piece D/S

 

@12TRDTacoma thanks, I just shot a mouthful of coffee onto my phone reading that quote....oooomfg bwahahahahahhaha

 

Think Toyota would accept this for the DS campaign

 

Why not, all you did was try to “rebalance” it to cure the vibes! Right?
That didn’t work, so now you let the Pro at Toyota have a look. LoL

BTW, Awesome pic.

 

Thanks. That thing got beat and finally decided to die. Just had a local shop rebuild it.

 

Weld some steel on, tap it, bolt it, replace joint and flange.

 

Can't hurt to ask. I bet if you had an invoice from a reputable shop that noted vibration issues ... They might

 

I was being facetious and a smart ass about the whole thing

 

I know.

 

Buy a $99 Harbor Freight welder and weld it back yourself. Then you will have a welder for other needs in the future.

 

What the hell a bolt fell out the entire thing torqued sideways. If it trash the rubber parts buy a new carrier bearing no big deal. The carrier bearing is nothing new been used by many manufactures it is not a Toyota "thing". By the way the carrier gives you a good bit more ground clearance that a long drive shaft.