Drive Shaft Vibration after lift! 15$ fix!!!!!!

Ok, so I unsuspectingly lifted my 96 tacoma 3 inches. If you are looking at this, you probably understand that this causes bad low speed vibrations. This happens because the drive shaft angle's aren't equal. The frontmost piece of the shaft was almost flat, while the backmost piece of the shaft was at a very steep angle. So the opposite interior angles of the driveshaft were not equal. Since these angles aren't equal the power output from the transmission, was not going to be the same as the input to the wheels, so the driveshaft vibrates to get rid of some of the excess energy. This was exactly my problem at least. I was on here trying to find a solution, which didn't help because all of the car talk went above my head. So I went to a specialist, he told me to simply add washers to the bolts that hold the center bearing to the frame to space the drive shaft down. (the center bearing is on the driveshaft, and is held to the frame by 2 bolts) By dropping this you make the frontmost shaft steeper and the backmost shaft less steep, almost till it forms a straight line. I did this and added 5 washer in between the bearing and the frame. I couldn't add more because I didn't have enough thread. 5 washers bettered the angles but changed the speed at which vibrations occured. I knew I was on the right track. I did some digging and realized that the bolts that held the bearing were wildly obsucre, not a 9mm or a 10mm but and m10 bolt. Specifically and m10x1.25 thread pitch. hard to find even online especially online.


https://www.belmetric.com/bf10x125x70f-flange-bolt-109-p-3642.html?cPath=2_1047_69


Here is the link to bel metric that sells this bolt. Also you need to buy 42 3/8 washers. yes 42. Take off the old bolts they won't have enough room to drop it enough, then put your new bolts on and add 21 washers in between the bearing and the frame. The bolt is about 3 inches. this should cost 15 dollars total, and about an hout even if you don't know what you're doing. No more vibrations for me.
Hope this helps your problems!!!!!!

 

Good idea, thanks.

I don't have the bad vibrations but I like the thought of putting less angle on the u joints. I will try to lower my carrier bearing a little.

 

Stacking washers might be OK temporarily...but you might want to keep an eye on them over time. The washers themselves could shift, the vibrations of the vehicle could cause them to wear/break. The bolts could or might come loose.

Go to your local junkyard or metal shop and ask if they have some scrap steal laying around. Find some 'blocks' of steal the same thickness as you need and drill some holes in it. You're better off with something ONE-PIECE and solid.

Or...get a pair of steal axle shims.

 

What is the total height of the 21 washers stacked on top of each other? Or how far did you drop the carrier?

 

for those concerned about it being one solid piece it doesn't matter, if it bothers you then put gasket sealer between the washers and they will become one solid spacer when it dries.

not to poo-poo the thread but this trick has been done before and posted about as a "new" solution many times. glad you figured it out and it was a smart solution but just sayin, its been a known fix for many years and googling the issue would have shown you this trick that you managed to figure out on your own.

im sure there are still many who haven't seen this easy fix and this thread will help them too so thanks for sharing this useful idea with the membership

 

I got rid of mine with a 3* axel shim. They also sell carrier bearing drop brackets if you are concerned about the washers...

 

There is a simpler solution, albeit a little more expensive, that works for most people.

http://stores.streetacos.com/carrier-bearing-bracket-1-1-2-95-5-04-tacoma-4-lower-rear-lift/

This is a much more secure, safer way to lower your carrier bearing than stacking 21 washers under it. The problem with eliminating driveline vibrations by adjusting the carrier bearing alone is that you put more stress on the U joint closest to the transfer case, instead of having the greatest angle in the double cardan joint just after the carrier bearing.

The vibrations might also be present at the driveshaft to rear differential interface, which would necessitate axle shims, as Janster mentioned above.

 

bracket good idea.jpg

 

Has anybody lowered their truck? I'd like to go, maybe 1-2" down. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Bill