Drive Shaft Vibrations Solved Step-by-Step

Sounds like a tire balance issue. Take it in to America's Tire and have them balance the tires.
I know, sounds too simple. But if the person who balanced them before didn't use the proper adaptor, they'll be out of balance. Personal experience speaking (I had the exact same shake).

 

Just went out and pulled up on both tie rods and nothing. Raised the truck shook the wheels no play. Let it back down rocked the truck from front to back by grabbing the tires and rocking them and nothing a minor clicking noise when coming back forward. Went and grabbed my neighbors brand z 71 same click so guessing that's normal. I'm dumbfounded how if it is driveline how it causing my steering wheel to shake

 

Have done that. Had 4 new sets of tires put on in the last month and one new set of wheels tried. Still did it. Road forced balanced by discount tire several times. Nothing.

 

I think I got it!!!! I really really think I got it. lol I took out the 8mm spacer on the cb and took it all the way back up to stock. Keep in mind I have a 6 in lift. The vibes were better but still there. So I put a washer in drove it almost there. put in another washer and 99% gone. Decided either I got really lucky or I found the fix. So 3mm spacer is to come.

 

2013 Sr5 Stock truck. Gone rounds with Toyota dealer,national, and regional. After National said they would do nothing, I could file lemon law, arbitration, talk to a lawyer or all 3 at same time. I initiated lemon law on their side and the next day I get a call from regional(Southeast Toyota Finance) who offered to repair using TSB SU1301. Upon pickup, vehicle has same vibration. Thought it was the "Dunflop" tires. At a tire dealer that I was trying to road force balance the tires, they test drove it and the mechanic looked at the driveshaft while back end was jacked up. His opinion and observation was that the driveshaft was wobbling at the transmission and he also thought I had Torque Converter chatter. I have an arbitration hearing Tuesday. We'll see how it goes.

 

On a 2013? Geez.

 

Definitely sounds like you are on the right track, that rear lift (blocks I'm assuming) means that you are inducing more axle wrap, so the pinion is rotating to a higher angle during driving, the first shaft needs to match the pinion angle during normal operation. So dropping the shaft even slightly at the cb makes all the difference in the world.

 

Good luck man

 

Weirdest thing. Driving down the freeway and blew a quarter-sized hole in the boot that covers the slip-joint.

Since many of you have done a single piece shaft conversion, and may still have the old two-piece laying around, would anyone mind shipping the slip-joint boot and clamps to me?

Thanks!

 

Someone may or may not have been driving a one-digit truck at or near three-digit speeds

That, and I had installed a grease fitting sometime back. My indication something was up was about a half a cup of grease all over the underside of the rear half of the truck.

 

No, but I suspect it's going to be one of those things I can't get ala carte, and have to buy the whole DS.

 

As I suspected, the boot does not have a separate part number. Took my parts guy at Toyota a while to find it in the diagrams. So now I'm hoping someone who swapped out for a one-piece DS will still have their old one sitting around and be willing to ship me just the boot and clamps...?...

 

While buying a new pinion bearing and seal set at ECGS, I came across a tech article that caught my attention regarding the driveline vibration. Perhaps a harmonic balancer installed on the pinion snout may help?

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/files/PDF Files/toyota-rear-third-member-flange-identification.pdf

 

Once it warms I will do this

 

sub'd

 

sub'd

 

It's axle wrap, not a harmonics issue, save your bucks...

 

Agree with doording here, call a driveshaft shop, even if they aren't local, those parts should ship cheap. You will have to provide them dimensions though for them to match.

 

I would think for a 2-piece driveshaft, a balancer on the 1st shaft near the carrier bearing would be much more helpful. Adding mass to the first shaft would help calm it down and keep the carrier bearing and crossmember from bouncing around so much.

The problem I see with our shafts is that the first shaft is too short and /or light, it doesn't have enough moment and mass to keep it stable. Adding a balancer to the end could help. When I look at it, I think the unanchored shaft (second shaft) should have the least moment and mass in the system, toyota/spicer just didn't design it that way. I would love someone from one of those to companies to chime in and tell me what they think though.

 

I get a vibration around 50 and up and it seems like the noise is a rolling noise going from nothing to its peak all within a second or 2. I first suspected the drive shaft but was also thinking maybe one of the rims is slighty bent I got it second hand so I dunno really. What's the easiest way to tell if it's the driveshaft making the noise ? 2005 tacoma prerunner access cab