Drive Shaft Vibrations Solved Step-by-Step

2013 Tacoma 4×4 HELP!!! Guys, I lived with driveline vibration on my 2013 TRD 4X4 for 5 years until I changed the 2-pc driveshaft to 1-pc drive shaft. The 1-pc virtually eliminated my vibration. I put a 3" lift kit in it 2 weeks ago which resulted in terrible vibration. As a result, I measure the transmission flange angle at 7.3 degrees and the pinion flange at 10.7 degrees. Common sense told me a 3 degree shim would fix my problem..... After measuring the pinion angle after shim install, it is now 19.3 degrees!!! How is this possible?!? I had the shims installed with thin side forward between lift block and spring pack which is what I learned from this website. WTF do I do now? I'm just about ready to drive it off a cliff with me in it. I can't stand this damn vibration any longer. If not solved soon, I'm selling the SOB and I'm done with Toyota forever. thanks for any advice.

 

Breathe...

 

Which direction is the angle? Swap the shim around the other direction and see what the angles look like

 

Most likely trolling. 2 posts (both the same), but learned how to fix his truck on TW...

 

The pinion was pitched down after 3" lift installed, thus the 3 deg shim with skinny side forward as defined in numerous threads. Now it pitched up to 19.3 deg. To swap the shims around and find out that's not going to fix it....I just keep throwing money at the situation and not fixing the issue.

 

You simply can’t get 19.3+ degree change from a 3 degree shim. Idk what you did wrong but it’s not right.

 

With a one piece driveshaft, really not sure what to recommend. Doesnt sound right to have that kind of angle, especially after shimming

 

2 possibilities:

He's trolling this thread with now a total of 3 posts or, his "block" lift is installed incorrectly/poor design. "Skinny" part forward in the shims cannot pitch the pinion down.

I still find it hard to believe he's been a member for 17 months and only has 3 total posts. in 2 days on this subject...

I hope the latter. Troll posts are funny at times, but they need to be a stand alone, not tagged to a helpful tread.

 

Dont think its possible to install the list block incorrectly. It was rough country lift with 2" blocks in rear between axle shelf and springs. I think its impossible to install incorrectly and impossible to install shims incorrectly as they sit on top of blocks just under leaf pack

 

I don’t disagree with that, but the angles don’t make sense.

Pics of everything, including the measurements would help.

 

So I’ve followed this thread a long time. Carrier bearing replaced. Drivers side needle bearing replaced. Drive shaft balanced. Angles checked and re-checked.

My vibration started about 15000 -20000 miles ago; I’m at about 80k now. Been lifted for probably 60k miles. 2013 TRD OR 4wd. I had a vibe at 1300-1500 rpm generally when lugging along. Also had a thump between 45-60 mph when accelerating moderately.

Just replaced my valve body with a Wholesale Automatic Transmission model. Flushed the trans. Vibe is gone. I now believe mine was all related to torque converter lockup.

 

The timing of your vibe is way different than mine. Mine is only at take off from a stop, up to ~15mph.

 

I had that some too from new. I haven’t felt that now either. Pondering a regear to 4.56’s so we’ll see what happens when I do that. Other projects are now taking my money.

 

So u guys dont think im smoking crack...here are measurements front and rear post lift, then post lift after 3 deg shim install. 7.5 front flange measurement, 10.7 deg rear after lift, 19.3 rear after shim install!!!

 

The reason I thought you were trolling us, was stated previously...

With that said, you have to zero your angle finder on there front flange and start from there.

I recommend using this app and follow the instructions:

http://www.tremec.com/menu.php?m=154

 

I dont disagree about zeroing my angle finder but it doesn't matter...the difference between front and back is the same regardless of whether u zero or not...just dont understand how i can go from 3 deg difference front to back and install 3 deg shims and now im 11+ deg out. I dont believe the shims are in backwards but seems based on measurement im wondering if they are.

 

Try pulling the shaft and measure without using the file. True, it doesn’t matter if you zero or not, it just reduces the simple math and gives you the difference.

Shim geometry: small end forward tilts the pinion up; thick end forward tilts the pinion down.

Keep in mind, that almost none of us use a block lift and that may contribute to your problems.

Edit: try keeping the angle finder oriented in the same direction at all times.

 

Alright I am kinda in between 1 and 1.5 degrees for my rear pinion flange to match the TC flange. Would like to get steel shims, but have not found any steel ones that small. Any advice where to look? I prefer non slotted type.

 

What is the D/S angle?

 

Pinion is up 1.5*, rear shaft is 6* and front is 5*. Gotta get the pinion right first before really worrying about the rest though. Whatcha think? Also wheres everyone purchasing their 1.5* steel shims?