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Driver Seat Side Squib Replacment/Troubleshooting

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by moweryaviation, Dec 23, 2018.

  1. Dec 23, 2018 at 8:27 AM
    #1
    moweryaviation

    moweryaviation [OP] Life begins, where the pavement ends!

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    I have a 2011 Tacoma AC 4x4. I removed the seats and washed them (soap, water, shop vac) reinstalled seats and now I have a B1820 code. "Short in Side Squib RH" Not sure how to troubleshoot, besides visual for corrosion. Any help on troubleshooting or squib replacment would be great.
     
  2. Dec 23, 2018 at 8:33 AM
    #2
    b_r_o

    b_r_o Gnar doggy

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    The squib is the (weird name for the) igniter inside the airbag unit. Other than checking the electrical connector there's not much you can do. That airbag unit is pretty sealed up and you cant really repair them
     
  3. Dec 23, 2018 at 8:39 AM
    #3
    moweryaviation

    moweryaviation [OP] Life begins, where the pavement ends!

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    What about a continuity check? I have worked wiht squibs on fire suppression systems on aircraft in the past, but those were a little different. Explosive just the same.
     
  4. Dec 23, 2018 at 8:43 AM
    #4
    b_r_o

    b_r_o Gnar doggy

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    By all means check continuity.. but I dont know what a correct reading should be. If the code says something is shorted in the circuit, picture a "hot" wire rubbing against something it shouldn't be touching.

    Are you sure you didn't snag some wiring under the seat with the vacuum?
     
  5. Dec 23, 2018 at 11:22 AM
    #5
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    STOP: You never want to check the continuity of a squib device. A squib contains explosives and the electrical current from a DMM can set it off.


    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Squib_(explosive)

    I'm pretty sure he meant to check the continuity of the circuit disconnected from the squib.
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2018
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  6. Dec 23, 2018 at 11:30 AM
    #6
    Larzzzz

    Larzzzz Grande' Ricardo

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    Aux back up lights, Bed lights, Re-located trailer plug, Good dooby, a.k.a. jumper cable mod, Heated seats, back up camera,
    Oh boy, wouldn't that suck...
     
  7. Dec 23, 2018 at 11:35 AM
    #7
    moweryaviation

    moweryaviation [OP] Life begins, where the pavement ends!

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    I really dont want to check continunity through the squib due to the meeter sending voltage through, and seeing what comes back. Squibs on aircraft can pop with static electricity.
     
  8. Dec 23, 2018 at 11:37 AM
    #8
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    Thank you. I'd be willing to bet the current from a DMM will detonate a squib.
     
  9. Dec 23, 2018 at 11:54 AM
    #9
    moweryaviation

    moweryaviation [OP] Life begins, where the pavement ends!

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    LOL, If I cleaned my truck than Yes, that would be a possibility!!!
     
    b_r_o[QUOTED] likes this.
  10. Dec 23, 2018 at 11:59 AM
    #10
    b_r_o

    b_r_o Gnar doggy

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    Jimmy 's right, the dmm could set off the igniter. Just check continuity through the harness to the last connector before the unit. If the continuity checks out then the unit is bad
     
  11. Dec 23, 2018 at 12:06 PM
    #11
    super_white

    super_white Well-Known Member

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    #1 Was the key on while the seats were out of the truck? Clear the code and see if it returns.
    #2 To check for an open or short in an airbag circuit, disconnect the airbag computer (called the center airbag sensor), disconnect whatever airbag there is a problem with (L/H seat), using a small wire jump the two wires at the airbag connector that you just disconnected. THE ONE LEADING BACK TO THE COMPUTER, NOT THE AIRBAG ITSELF. Then, with a multi-meter check for a open circuit, there will be a short because of the jumper you placed in the connector. Remove the jumper and check for an open/short again. Also check both wires for a short to ground. You can disconnect the battery but I never did.

    Picture below is an example and not to be used for your truck. You will need a wiring diagram for your vehicle.

    I've only seen airbag computers go bad because of an accident or they got wet.

    ab.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2018
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  12. Dec 23, 2018 at 12:26 PM
    #12
    super_white

    super_white Well-Known Member

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  13. Dec 23, 2018 at 12:41 PM
    #13
    moweryaviation

    moweryaviation [OP] Life begins, where the pavement ends!

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    I troubleshot it down to the squib its self in the seat. Does anyone know how to remove the factory seat cover to expose the squib? After that I will be looking for a P/N to order it, if I can even get it that is.
     
  14. Dec 23, 2018 at 12:46 PM
    #14
    moweryaviation

    moweryaviation [OP] Life begins, where the pavement ends!

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    Dude! thanks for the info!

    #1 No, the seat was removed and installed wiht no power on the truck.

    #2 The scaner told me it was a short, where I did not know until I unhooked the squib under the seat, cleared histoy codes, and did another scan. The "Short " code went away, and a diffrent code came up as an open, which is what I expected. To me that points the finger at the squib that I disconnected, now how to get that bastard out of the seat......
     
  15. Dec 23, 2018 at 12:53 PM
    #15
    super_white

    super_white Well-Known Member

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    That's the easy part. Remove the seat, remove the upholstery for the seat back and remove the squib (airbag). You don't need to remove the entire seatback material, just enough to get to the bolts. Should be two 8mm or 10mm bolts.
     
  16. Dec 23, 2018 at 12:55 PM
    #16
    moweryaviation

    moweryaviation [OP] Life begins, where the pavement ends!

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    Cool, I was just wrestling wiht it and found a long black plastic clip, for the cover that was not wanting to come off. thanks for the info.
     

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