Driverside E-brake cable too tight

I have been googling and searching the forum for a case similar to my own with no luck so far.

As the title says, I am having some trouble with my left side (driver side) ebrake cable. I just got around to doing the drum brakes including the ebrake mechanism. They work well but upon release, the driver side cable remains pretty taut. When I pull the ebrake, the passenger side easily gets taut and loosens back up.

I think the culprit is the arm or joint at the junction that connects the single brake cable to the left and right side cables above the rear axle. It seems pretty rusted. Is that supposed to move or pivot when the cable is pulled?

For a short term fix, is there anything I can do to loosen that driver side cable with out cutting it?

Thank you in advance!

 

First, pull the e-brake tight, then slowly release it all the way. Next, crawl underneath and take a look at the cable from the Y-joint to the left brake. If that part of the cable is loose, then the fault is between the end of the driver's backing plate and the crank mechanism that goes through the backing plate.

You mentioned "rust". You could disassemble the cable inside the drum, then remove the two small bolts that hold the outer crank assembly to the backing plate and clean them real good. Remove the rust using fine-grade sand paper or steel wool, and lube them with brake parts grease. Reassemble everything and retest the e-brake system.

There is a small spring associated with the e-brake mechanism and outside the backing plate. Make sure it is still there and not stretched or broken. I wouldn't touch the adjustment screw and locknut that are outside of the backing plate until I was absolutely sure that the e-brake cranks are clean and lubed, and that the problem still exists.

 

There is a pivot point where you are describing the cables splitting. When the brake is released that "arm" should be able to move back and forth (you have have to put some force into it to fight the springs at the backing plates). If this pivot point is rusted then it cannot move and allow the tension to release on the driver side. I would unbolt it and clean all the rust off then assemble.

 

not sure what year/model your truck is - you should add this to your profile.

your torsioner spring might be horribly rusted or broken. - it's part 9050832018 for an 02.

before replacing parts, you might want to soak the shit out of all exposed metal on the e brake cables with rust dissolver several times, let it sit, rinse well after each soak, and then soak with lube..

 

Thank you all for the replies.

I have added this to my profile. It is a 2001 Tacoma xtracab v6 TRD. I tried looking up the part number but I couldn't find where that particular spring goes. Do you mind elaborating a little more, sorry I am new to this truck!

I think this is where I am running into trouble. I have tried to move it (with a hammer too) and it doesn't budge. When I get a free chance I will disassemble this and clean the rust off the best I can. Thanks!

 

See the diagram here:
http://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/sho...ukey_driveline=0&ukey_trimlevel=0&modelYear=0
The torsioner spring is basically what applies retraction to the e-brake handle. Maybe your spring is broken? It's located on the inner side of the frame, about half-way back, where the cable that's attached to the handle connects to the cable that goes to the rear brakes. you can't miss it. you find it?

 

Ahh yes, I did notice that spring is extremely corroded. The ebrake pull level mechanism next to the steering wheel also has a lot of slack as you release it. Could this also be another symptom of that spring not doing its job?

 

Your front cable may also be at fault. I had problems with the bell cranks hanging up in the back and a slack ebrake lever. Cleaned and greased the cranks, and everything moved nicely on the rear axle, but still had slack in the lever. Cleaned and lubed the spring, but that made no difference. Problem was in the corroded front cable. Replaced that and everything works like new. It's an easy fix, and even the OEM cable is not expensive.

 

The front e brake cable is a MAJOR PITA to change. You don't want to mess with that unless absolutlely necessary. I would just buy the torsioner spring (it's like $10) and start with that.
You will need to either heat and lube the shit out of everything to remove the old spring. i would suggest soaking a bunch of times with rust dissolver (you can pick up a bottle for $20 at auto zone) before starting the removal process. if your truck has been in NY, it is guaranteed to have lots of rust underneath.

 

I disagree that it was difficult to change. I followed a TW writeup and it went well. I also documented my process, but did not post it. On a truck as old as the OPs, and in the northeast, the front cable may be shot due to corrosion inside the casing. If that is the case, lubing the spring will provide limited results. I tried that treatment myself in an attempt to avoid changing the cable.

EDIT: Certainly try the lube. I just may work in your case. Good luck OP.