Driveshaft busted up

Its actually a paper bag. Toyota added this paper bag feature because they knew these shafts would break apart. Toyotas paper bag feature is great, shaft breaks apart and you just pull the paper bag out from inside so you can collect your driveshaft parts and put them in the bag. Zero impact on the earth, pack out what you pack in on the trailz!!

 

Bahahhahah thats uh... interesting.

 

It's to lessen the driveshaft harmonic hum i.e. cut noise coming off the shaft. If hollow you may get a slight ringing as with some aftermarket ones. As for balancing a 2 piece I would guess they simply balance each section alone.

 

I was going to say, it must have some type of dampening effect. As funny as it is, I'm sure they wouldn't have put it there for no reason.

 

What's the downside to a 1pc shaft on a street truck? I don't think think I've seen many complaints about them.

 

I've never seen any downsides to a 1 piece driveshaft but they do have limits on length and the diameter would be increased for a given length and there is also a critical speed which it is limited to. I got a scrap driveshaft from a 4runner which already has the double cardan built in and had a local place extend and balance it, no issues for the last 7 years.

 

The down sides would be clearance for wheelin', regearing 4 larger tires spins shaft 2 fast, double cardon would be weaker due to smaller ujoint. So for me its a no go.

 

Why on good green earth would you not want a one piece? I sent years of time and thousands of dollars trying to make the two piece work. $850 Rene at USADriveline made custom one piece 4" aluminum shaft... Not exaggerating, litterly better than the day I drove it off the show room floor. Brand new! And that's after a 7" lift and 35's!


Go one piece, save your money and headache and do what you gonna have to do one day anyway!

 

4" aluminum shaft

 

No it's not a one piece on a 2WD, look a it

 

7" lift and only have 35s? Im tryin to keep center of gravity low, im on 35s 2.5" lift. Thanks for your input

 

Some one already answered this, thanks again for your input

 

4"aluminum would be less tolerant than the stock steel 3"(i think) to light damage and less clearance. Thanks for the input

 

Doesn't matter the height, lifted is modified and screws up the entire geometry of the 2 piece. I spend hundreds of hours deling with it at 2.5", 3", etc also. I went through at least 3-4 center bearings at 3".

I did double, double cardon I n my bronco2 with 13" lift, didn't do well. Stick to good old fashion one piece and u-joints and be done with it.
All that out of the way, 35's with 2.5" lift.... What route did you take? Coil overs and fiber glass?

 

With that little amount of lift, you would have to cut center bearings mounts for sure for clearance. Reason for 4" alum is to make changes stregnth of 3" steel

 

Im not a hardcore wheeler by far but for what i have done 2 the truck its alright. I have done deep cab mount chop and need 2 relocate eventually. 2.5" or so trim on fenders, hammer fender wells and still rub on full compression. Full skids,etc..Always somethin 2 tweek and tune. Runnin, the medium trails at moab, top of world, poison spider, golden spike, gold bar rim. Front arb locker, electric stock rear locker, 4.88 gears which i just blew bout 7 teeth off ring gear at moab, lol

 

Guess our trucks go different places and are adapted differently.

 

And i have dakar 95 with 3 degree shim so driveline geometry/angles are good on my truck. Why did you spent hundreds of hours trying 2 get geometry correct on a 3" lift? Did u measure drive line angles and use pinion shims?

 

So if you break-down you have fire-starting material. handy.

That was my nickname in college

 

That was my nickname in college [/QUOTE]
Its ok buddy, remember its not the size of the boat, its the motion in the, oh fuck we all know thats bullshit. Just get rich and bitches be all over that 4" aluminum shaft and tellin u its the best they ever had