Driveshaft clunk - changing from Park to Drive or Reverse

My understanding of axle wrap is that it can cause a noise during acceleration and when coming to a stop. Its basically the movement in the rear axle. For my scenario, I'm stationary and engaging the auto trans into reverse or drive. If axle wrap is still something to consider, let me know.

 

Ah I just have misread your original post(s) and incorporated my own issue into the equation.

I get the clunk when coming to a slow and final stop and also upon first letting off the brake/acceleration.

 

Yeah, that sounds like axle wrap or the slip joint, at least from what I've read so far.

 

I'm at 140K and its ready for the carrier brg, I'll be doing that along with the u-joints. In my case I know the clunk is coming from the carrier bearing. As a test I stuffed a rag in tightly around the carrier bearing (didn't drive it, just shifted) and the clunk almost went complexly away.

 

Thanks! I'll do the same test with my setup and see if I get similar results.

 

If you end up down there again can you take a Pic of how you wrapped a rag around the bearing? I'd like to try this test.

I thought OP also had the clunk at acceleration/braking stop. Are these not symptoms as well, OP?

 

My primary complaint is a loud clunk going into Reverse or Drive when the vehicle is stationary. I also get a driveline clunk to a lesser extent if I'm driving, let off the gas to coast, and then get back on the gas. I don't have any noises braking (for now!)

 

This is almost certainly backlash. You are way over complicating this. Changing the CB is not going to fix how much the drive shaft can ROTATE before engaging the next tooth. Unless there are some fubard splines in the intermediate shaft/flange fitting, or the slip yoke splines. "embarrassing" is a bit of a stretch. At most it's annoying for you. I doubt anyone around your truck even notices.

 

On mine I didn't have anyone to watch under the truck but I noticed the clunk, it was more accurately like a subtle thud felt through the chassis when gas was applied from a stop, not really audible. While inspecting everything I saw the play in the DS, at least 1/2" up and down or side to side at the carrier. I figured a rag stuffed between the gap between the rubber and the shaft itself was the best I could do. In hindsight I should have stuck the GoPro nearby and got a video of the DS wrap. You could probably lay a phone facing up under the truck at the carrier in the driveway, start a recording and shift from neutral to drive and apply some gas with the brake also applied and see the slack in the rubber bearing take up. That's what's happening on mine.

 

I need to do a video. It is extremely loud and sometimes sounds like a cow bell. If it was a subtle noise I would not worry about it. Anyone that hears it thinks there is something significantly wrong with my truck!

 

And they may be right.

Hopefully you live in an area that is large enough to have a reputable, seasoned shop that specializes in differentials, axles, etc.

We are lucky enough to have one here that I've been able to point folks to over the years who have been most pleased with the work done.

 

Okay, I've added a few videos of the driveshaft in several situations. They have been added to my initial post.
I'll provide updates over the weekend as I try out a few things. Thank you for all the suggestions and help.

 

I had 2 diff rebuilders inspect my clunk and both said it was ok,
The dealership and a 4x4 specialist said it was the 3rd member.

It was the 3rd member at the end.
Got a used 3rd member that had 130k and running fine now

 

Carrier bearing video on my bench. Well, I thought it was in good shape but that's not my thought anymore!

https://youtube.com/shorts/ThpYB3ZRC-0?si=RPRXvNgK3zgrUaBg

 

Did that fix your problem?

 

I put everything back together this morning. New carrier bearing. All u joints lubed up. Slip joint lubed with moly. I checked the splines on the propeller shaft and they were fine also. All bolts tightened to spec. After all is said and done .... the clunk remains.

My conclusion: my noise is from the rear backlash. So I can either get the 3rd member rebuilt (or get a used one) or live with it.

 

If I pull my 3rd member and my backlash is good, perhaps I may just need to adjust my carrier bearing preload like what is outlined on this page?
http://www.gearinstalls.com/freshen.htm

If so, that's a pretty easy fix.

 

Interesting, and? Fixed it?

 

WOW
Easy???
lol
Think I could do (use a dial out for work) but intimidating

MAYBE
I would attempt if my rear wheel bearings were needed

Interesting link thou
Only can accomplish if rear diff on a bench? Just to use dial out indicator?

plz let us know what happens!!!!

 

This is probably easier, lol