Driveshaft failed...Please Help!

@Sharpish Well I'm wondering why this matters, maybe it's because I sound like an idiot?
I'm in my mid 30s.

 

Any shop should be able to install a driveline, don't necessarily need a "driveline shop"

A good quality driveline should cost at least 800$, be wary of cheaper quotes over the phone

 

Thank you. Yeah, you’re right. Just thought about taking it to a driveline shop because that is the only thing they do and I trust them a little more. But I feel you.

I understand. I’m willing to pay whatever it costs. But I’m just wondering if the Toyota stock one is $800, but like the Tom Woods one is around $550, why not take the cheaper option? Or like get a driveline shop to make me one for $400?

The same thing happened to my Outback. I was stuck in California and Subaru said their stock driveshaft was $800. But I just called a local machine shop and they built me one to spec for $400 and overnighted it for free.
Why is something like that frowned upon?

Or am I totally misunderstanding and you mean $800 for parts and labor?

Sorry for being so pedantic, just trying to be thorough here, explore options.

 

Don't be too hard on yourself, lesson learned. It could have been much more destructive then it was, although it still sucks because when a budget is tight and a big unexpected repair pops up, it's never a fun day. FWIW, last year I needed a new driveshaft for my '99 4runner and none of the local drivetrain shops could get the parts to build one ( Toyota doesn't offer the parts to rebuild their double cardan joint , only the rear most u-joint is available) so I found a place in SoCal called DriveshaftPro.com. They were great to deal with and had the parts to build a new, serviceable driveshaft using Spicer u-joints and DC joint. Toyota wanted almost $900 for a new driveshaft, this place built me one and shipped it for about $500.

It's impossible to diagnosis the damage to the electrical connection just from a pic, but as someone else said, run the t-case through the ranges. If it still works you can probable buy just the plug housing (connector) from Toyota and re-pin the plug. if everything still works you could just put some RTV over the hole for a temporary fix just to keep water away out of the connector.

 

I saw your other post where you blew up the picture, and yes, if just the connector was busted then you could limp along with some tape for the time being and still use the 4WD modes. But with that housing busted, you'll need a new/used actuator. You can ignore the actuator for now if you're not going to need 4WD, but it will go bad very quickly (if it isn't already) due to water getting in there. The actuator is the entire assembly, both the plastic and metal parts held on by 3 bolts, about the size of a softball.

 

There's a lot of discussion on the TW forums about the pros/cons of the two-piece driveshaft. Worth reading up on if you have the time. The Tom Woods single-shaft comes up a lot, especially with lifted trucks. Reading through the thread it's not clear if your truck is lifted or not, sounds like maybe it has a mild lift. Depending upon the amount of lift, you might need to put a spacer above the center bearing to reduce the driveshaft to differential angle, primarily to reduce/eliminate vibration. Tuning a lift like this isn't uncommon. But whatever lift you have, putting back a known good stock driveshaft setup is probably the best bet. Worry about truck mods down the road when you've got some spare $$$ for it.

Nothing wrong with a less expensive option if you can find one that appears to use quality parts and provides a warranty to back it up. Local to you, of course.

 

Thank you so much, I really appreciate that. You're very right.
Dang! This is a wealth of knowledge, immensely helpful. I'm going to look into that driveshaft place, thank you.

Yeah good point, just seeing what people think. I think from what I can see in the picture, you are totally right, I'll see if the transfer case is cycling and then try those fixes. Thank you.

 

Awesome, thank you so much, this is very helpful. Very good points. I think I'm going to see how it's operating with the damage, but yeah I don't want anything to get in there and ruin it, so I may just spring for a new/used one in addition to driveshaft repair.

 

Ugh, thanks again, really good points here, I appreciate it.
Oh man yeah I've been reading a million threads on gen 2 driveshaft discourse haha. But from what everyone here has said, I think you are right, a good stock shaft is the route I'll most likely go. And yeah, mod later if I feel the need.

Wow, the spacing above the carrier bearing is really smart! Thank you! Still trying to figure out the lift on this truck, but that makes a lot of sense.

 

I believe that black arc youre referring to is just old grease being shot out onto the undercarriage when the drive shaft spins. I have it too.

 

To measure how much lift you have take measurements from the center of each wheel hub to the bottom of the fender. I believe stock trucks are around 20" front/22"rear. Anything more than those numbers will be how much your truck is lifted.

 

People's Jaws drop when I tell them I have 365,000 miles on my truck.

All that maintenance is cheaper than repairs..

 

.....and start changing other fluids, ASAP, (diffs, motor oil, trans, radiator, etc.)as from what those pics suggest, everything else may also be wearing prematurely due to a lack of normal maintenance.

....and plugs....

 

Shop around for new or find a used one you can remove at a salvage yard.

This is one of many places to get one new,.. make sure you get the type you may need.
https://driveshaftstore.com/Toyota-Tacoma-Driveshaft-2011

 

You'll need some yokes, u joints, grease, and TLC. Mind your maintenance manual.

 

When a vehicle starts making noises it is too late for maintenance.

 

Here's what it looked like under my truck. I was cautious about my speed and turns. Of course doing this isn't recommend but I wasn't in a position to rent a car for 2 weeks or take the bus to work. Fortunately I didn't end up with any other problems

[/QUOTE]

 

Yeah you are right about the like dark line up in there. But I guess I was referring to like this arc of damage the shaft looked like it cause. If you look at this photo, not only is the transfer case actuator splayed open, but it hit that shield and the frame on the right also, making like a nice semi-circle lol.

 

Oh wow thank you, this is very helpful!

 

As @b_r_o indicated in his post, yes, you must remove the entire driveshaft assembly from differential flange to transmission flange. Looks just like @Dan 77 shows. If you do this, put it into 4HI and keep it there, in case that actuator decides to go out on you. There could easily be some debris in it.

Keep in mind that the front wheel system wasn't intended to propel the entire weight of the truck, the rear wheels normally do the bulk of that. We don't know whether the designers put as much load carrying capability into the front drivetrain as the rear; but in any case you can't assume the U-joints on the front driveshaft coming out of the transfer case are in great shape, either. Please check them and get them lubricated if they appear to be serviceable before deciding to drive the truck on a regular basis on just the front wheels. And go somewhat easy on the gas, don't pour the power on.